Last week, Evan Rail tweeted a link to a New York Times story about “The Twilight of the Imperial Chef.”
Great piece arguing against elevating celebrity chefs, recognizing that many people make restaurants great.
We’ve been saying the same thing about craft beer for years.
Breweries are *lots* of people. Delivery folks. Taproom workers. Keg cleaners.
In our culture we have a tendency to elevate & make heroes of individuals.
But our favorite breweries include more folks than just Sam, Garrett, Tomme, Evin or Yvan. (And look: you know which breweries I mean.)
These are teams. Groups. Real people. Let’s do right by them.”
Consider how Tejal Rao sets the table in the Times story:
For decades, the chef has been cast as the star at the center of the kitchen. In the same way the auteur theory in film frames the director as the author of a movie’s creative vision, the chef has been considered entirely responsible for the restaurant’s success. Everyone else — line cooks, servers, dishwashers, even diners — is background, there to support that vision.”
This is one of several stories recently about “monsters in the kitchen.” I don’t think anybody is suggesting that is going on within breweries. (On the restaurant side of brewery operations, that might be another matter.)