Has the craft-beer revolution gone too far? Its beverages are delicious, but its culture can be oppressive. And its most outspoken creators, servers and consumers have become a new generation’s record-store clerks: If a record-store clerk is someone who knows everything about music except how to dance to it, then the craft-beer connoisseur is someone who knows so much about beer that he’s the last person in the world you’d want to drink it with.
– Keir Graff, “The Contrarian: Has the craft-beer revolution gone too far?”
The beer I’m least excited about in general: yet another IPA. Beer is so varied and rich in tradition, flavors, and possibility that I personally get frustrated when people get hung up on any one aspect of what beer can be or brewers go chasing after the newest hop or meaningless theoretical IBU calculations. At some point it became, “Hey, I made this crazy new beer!” “What, did you just add a bunch of hops to it?” Noooo—we can do better than that. Don’t get me started on black IPAs — they’re the cheese in the crust of craft beer.
– John Laffler, brewer, Goose Island, in “Drinking with beer nerds”
At the end of August, we’re moving into our own office space in Chicago. One thing I really wanted was for our employers to brew beer at work. Lo and behold, when we open our offices in August, we’ll have a brew kitchen and we’ll be able to brew beer at the office.
– (MillerCoors owned) Tenth and Blake CEO Tom Cardella, interviewed by DRAFT Magazine.
For craft beer, the brand concepts and the direction that’s resonating has really been nostalgic post-prohibition-era look and feel. . . . I think because it hearkens back to the hand-crafted, the passionate brew master and it has that limited production feel about it that craft consumers are looking for.
– Stephanie Grubbs, in “Meet the Force Behind Private-Label Booze.” BTW, she also says, ” I do drink beer, and I do like the IPAs.” Does that mean they are two different things?
Even though there’s eight, ten breweries here, there are lots of inspectors that have never seen a brewing tank. . . . [one] didn’t understand what fermentation was; she was worried about this yeast being in there, and it took a lot of explanation for her to be OK with what we were doing.
– Pete Crowley, founder of Haymarket Pub & Brewery in Chicago, talking about the challenges of opening a brewery. Quoted in “An in-the-works brewery goes off the grid” (excellent read).
“…its most outspoken creators, servers and consumers have become a new generation’s record-store clerks…”
BINGO!
Eh, Keir Graff? Did you stop liking music because some people involved in the selling of it are arseholes?
I seem to remember Taratino was a video shop nerd, and boy am I glad he decided to make films 😉
Beer Nut: I have discounted my interest in certain craft brewers because some people involved are arse holes or their policies are distasteful.
But that is a bit besides the point – the record-store clerk comment is a beautiful response to the “rock star” crap that gets thrown around.
I think I’ve managed to avoid being hit by any rock star crap thus far, but thanks for the heads-up.
You must live a sheltered life.
Funny, my mum was just saying that as she locked me again in last night.
My homebrew club, ASH, will be bringing 10 employees of Tenth and Blake into the homebrewing fold.
I have to admit a bit of excitement about that. I wonder if any of them will want to brew a wit?
Well, Keir Graff was talking about people, not beer, and there are people like that. And they tend to be vocal. That being said, I find it somewhat ironic that he/she _also_ comes across like someone I wouldn’t want to have a drink with — heavy on exaggerations and stereotypes to prove a point, not realizing that said exaggerations and stereotypes destroy the point.
Those record store clerks are too cool for everything. When IPAs are the top beer style in America they’ll be into sour beer because that’s so much cooler than ipa. Oh wait they already are. Drink what you like read what you like ignore people that tell you what the best of anything is.
“The beer I’m least excited about in general: yet another IPA.”
AY – MEN!
But Stan, is John the brewmaster at the Goose Island Pub (they turn over often)? ‘Cause we all know the new head brewer at the micro is Brett Porter.
And, um — Draft Magazine is in Chicago? Hmm…
Oh sorry, re-read closer: Interviewed by Draft Magazine (already knew Miller-Coors was in Chi) — carry on.
That’s funny, the beer I’m least excited about is yet another oak-aged, fruit infused beer that’s been dosed with Brett 🙂
But really, can’t we all just get along? Beer tastes vary and it’s great to have so many choices.
“Beer tastes vary and it’s great to have so many choices.”
Completely agreed, but one more IPA (or oak-aged, fruit infused beer that’s been dosed with Brett) just starts to tip the scales of choices.
Honestly, I see so many IPAs on the shelves anymore that I just turn to the Bourbon aisle. 😉
Beer Nut, I think your analogy is a bit off. It isn’t record clerks:beer, it is record clerks:pubs.
And, A – I certainly agree with you.
The culture that has given rise to HateBeer and BeerEvil and thousands of beer blogs written by people whose only ability and insight seem to be unbridled enthusiasm has indeed created a sort of monster. Personally, I find extreme beer (beers that are profoundly unbalanced) the worst creation to come from this culture.
I’m sure there are some very good beers being made in the US, but somehow, they seem drowned out in all the noise.
I think my analogy holds up, Mike. If the record clerks are arseholes, you don’t stop listening to music, you just shop elsewhere. Graff just needs to get his delicious beer somewhere that isn’t tainted by the oppressive culture he has noticed. Ultimately, however, it’s not the beer’s fault people are, apparently, being dicks about it.
And if the revolution has “gone too far”, what’s the alternative? Go back to drinking crap?
Beer Nut, perhaps I misunderstood your point, but I still say it is a cultural problem, not a people problem. Which, I believe, was Graff’s point as well.
As for alternatives: don’t go to pubs populated by twats. If there are no good pubs left (hard to believe), buy beer at a local and drink at home or with friends.
If enough people feel the way Graff does, and I can well imagine he’s not the only one, perhaps the culture will eventually die. One can only hope, eh?
One can indeed.