Should we call it the Artisinal Trap?

Today’s New York Times has an article about artisinal ice cream. There’s that word again. The story focuses on the price of high-end (as in expensive) ice cream.

Read both pages, and not only because I guarantee Taos Cow makes great ice cream. Think about it in terms of our previous discussion.

In case you are on the fence about taking the time, a few excerpts:

  • “Since when is ice cream so expensive?” asked one mother.
  • Stefano Grom serves what may be America’s most expensive ice cream cone: $5.25, with tax, for a “small,” which works out to about $150 a pound.
  • Dairy technology has advanced to a point that consumers often can’t tell the difference. Expensive ice cream is often described as “artisanal” or “housemade,” but neither term has a meaningful definition as relates to ice cream. An “artisanal” gelato shop might only be adding water to a dry mix somewhere on the premises.
  • If you hang out here much you know I think many beers that can fairly called artisinal are underpriced. That doesn’t mean I can’t be offended when a marketer describes a product as “artisinal” just so a company can charge more.

    4 thoughts on “Should we call it the Artisinal Trap?”

    1. “Underpriced”? Now there is a word I don’t understand. How can anything that is produced and bought over the long term be underpriced? Well priced? Good value? Sure. Otherwise the consumer has no role in the marketplace… other than dupe.

      Question on “artisanal” – can the product ever suck and still be called artisanal with a straight face? Is the $150 a lb ice cream better than Mercers of Boonville where you can get a mammoth real buck fifty cone? http://www.mercersdairy.com/products.php Doubt it. Does Mercers have a PR manager? Doubt it. That’s what you pay for. Ice cream + stylist = $150.

      Maybe it’s like good beer + transportation + jet setting = artisanal. You really might not even need the “good” in that equation

    2. I’m trademarking the Extra Artisinal. Thats the next step. Its not just made with fine ingredients, actual sweat and/or blood from the works must go into the creation. Extra extra Artisinal someone has to have died or something sacrificed to make it.

    3. Stan, after reading your posts I feel like I’m in the movie “Being John Malkovich.”

      I see the word “artisina” where ever I go now. Just yesterday, there was a bottled water truck parked outside my office with what written on its side? You guessed it – Artisinal Water! (Malkovich….Malkovich….)

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