The 42 best beers in the world, circa 1982

Michael Jackson Pocket Guide to Beer - 1982When somebody talks about “MJ’s list of best beers” do you think about the latest offering from Men’s Journal or one from Michael Jackson?

Me too.

Working on another project I recently hauled out his first Pocket Guide to Beer, published in 1982 and opened enough times since that the 18 pages containing Guinness through Anchor keep falling out.

This was the only pocket guide where Jackson used a 5-star rating. In following editions the highest was 4. In essence, each 5-star beer in this edition was a best of breed, so Zum Uerige Altbier represents that style, Westmalle Tripel that one, etc. (More about this at the bottom.)

Just for fun, here are the 42 beers that Jackson awarded 5 stars. (He also gave all 12 traditional Lambic brewers in the Senne Valley 5 stars “for dedication to an elusive craft,” adding “their products vary according to the good years and the bad, a greater discrimination would be illogical.”)

Czech Republic
Pilsner Urquell

Germany
Jever Pilsner
Einbecker Ur-Bock
Dortmunder Kronen Export
Zum Uerige Altbier
Kulminator 28 Urtyp Hell
Hofbräuhaus Maibock
Hofbräuhaus Edel-Weizen
Paulaner Urtyp
Paulaner Salvator
Schlenkerla Märzen
Spaten Dunkel Export
Spaten Ur-Märzen
Weihenstephan Weizenbock
Kindl Berliner Weisse

Belgium
Duvel
Liefmans Goudenband Speciaal Provisie
Rodenbach
Rodenbach Grand Cru
Westmalle Tripel
Hoegaards Wit
Saison Dupont
Chimay Red
Chimay Blue
Orval

Britain and Ireland
Brakspear’s Pale Ale
Courage Imperial Russian Stout
Fuller’s ESB
Gales Prize Old Ale
Whitbread Gold Label
Mackeson
Marston’s Pedigree
Marston’s Owd Roger
Highgate Mild
Thomas Hardy’s Ale
Belhaven 80/-
Traquair House
Guinness Extra Stout (Britain and Ireland)
Guinness Foreign Extra Stout

France
Jenlain

United States
Anchor Steam

Australia
Cooper’s Sparkling Ale

In the introduction Jackson explained a beer rated 5 stars was “a world classic either because it has outstanding complexity and distinction or because it is the definitive example of its style, and no matter whether everyone is capable of appreciating it; some people probably don’t like first-growth Bordeaux, either.”

In later editions he introduced the star ratings by making it clear they compared beers within a region to each other. For this first one, he wrote, “The whole scale of ratings in the German section tends to be high because all beers in that country are of what must be recognized internationally as a particularly good quality.”

Government lies and other good beer reading

Stuff you should be reading:

I Told You Those Lying Bastards Were Making It Up
From Martyn Cornell: “It was fantastically satisfying to see the front page splash in The Times declare what I’ve been saying for years – that the government’s ‘safe drinking guidelines’ of 21 units of alcohol for men and 14 for women a week have no basis in fact, and were literally made up on the spot with no evidence to support them 20 years ago, solely because the ‘experts’ thought they ought to be saying some rather than nothing.”

Fresh hops in Oregon

There’s so much going on that in Oregon that Jon Abernathy at The Brew Site declared it “Fresh Hops Week.” He’s got got the Tastival, fresh hops beers in bottles, reviews and more.

Jeff Alworth at Beervana also has several posts, with a bunch o’ reviews here including his opinion about which are the best.

The British Beer Renaissance
Back to the Times (UK, not NY) and from wine critic Jane MacQuitty: “Largely in response to this demand, the wealth of British beers available now from all over the country, judging from the four dozen or so I tasted blind for this article, is extraordinary. The sheer variety of superb hoppy, floral, fruity yet bitter flavours present in my line-up was a delight.”

High-rise blues
This is among my favorite posts of the year. Lauren Clark tackles an unpleasant subject and writes about women who refuse to sit while urinating in public toilets, instead hovering above the toilet and leaving it sprinkled with pee. There’s also an educational takeaway for those of us who don’t use the women’s room. “Microbiologists have found four hundred times more illness-causing bacteria on the typical office desktop, with its germ-filled computer keyboard, mouse and phone receiver, than on most toilet seats.”

Like I said, must reading.

Them’s fightin’ words: American beers lack nuance

This from a story that dated tomorrow (step into the future with me) in the New York Times:

Subtlety is the hallmark of the better Japanese microbrews, while most American craft beers embrace an onslaught of flavor with all the nuance of a sledgehammer.

That attention-getting line aside, Specialty Beers on the Rise in the Land of Sake is worth your time.

Many parallels with the United States. Microbreweries were legalized in 1994, peaked in 1999, fell off and more recently have figured out what they want to be as they grow up.

They are gaining traction with drinkers under 40, benefiting from growing interest in a wider range of cuisines, etc.

All with a bit of subtlety, of course.

Hops shortages serious, but nothing new

Did I ever mention that my father was a professor of agricultural economics and wrote a textbook called The Economics of Futures Trading? I’m not saying that much of his brilliance rubbed off on me, but I grew up in an Illinois household where commodities were discussed almost every day. He always knew a range of prices (spot and futures) for grains such as soybeans and corn.

No hops, but what’s going on these days with both the short term supply of hops and the spot and futures prices would have made sense to him. This isn’t happening in a vacuum.

Our neighbor across the street ran a grain elevator and one next door sold tractors and farm implements. I only needed a look at the Christmas presents neighborhood kids were getting to know if it had been a good year or bad.

When I was a kid we’d go for Sunday drives in the country to see how the crops were progressing. In the fall we’d drive by grain elevators. In bumper years you’d see mountains of grain piled all around because there wasn’t enough room to process it all.

And prices sucked. No wonder almost none of the kids I knew who grew up on farms ended up being farmers.

The same situation has existed with hops since beer became an industrial product in the 19th century. There have been boom years and bust years.

Picking hops in New York

Consider this from a feature called “A Glass of Beer” that appeared in Harper’s New Monthly Magazine in October of 1885:

No product of the soil varies more in price than the hop. Having but a single available use, and deteriorating rapidly with age, a year which gives to Germany, England, and the United States a season of average productiveness would create an excess over consumption sufficient to reduce values far below the cost of cultivation. Witness the low prices of 1869, 1871, and 1878, when the entire crop was marketed at from five to twelve cents per pound.

On the other hand, the fancied scarcity of the season of 1882-83 ran the price up to over one dollar, and brought money enough to some lucky holders to pay the cost of a good-sized farm, aggregating to the United States alone a valuation of over $25,000,000. It was said of this season that which will perhaps never be said again, that five pounds of hops could be exchanged for a barrel of flour.

Or what Martyn Cornell posted this week in writing about Kent hops and IPA:

One of the reasons The Times carried hop harvest reports was because of the betting that went on over the yield of the hop tax. By the mid-19th century, according to Peter Mathias’s magisterial The Brewing Industry in England 1700-1830, as much money was being bet on the hop tax yield as on the Derby.

This was not simple gambling, however, but a way for hop growers and hop dealers to lay off, or hedge, the risks that came with involvement in a trade that could see prices triple one year and halve the next, as yields went down and up depending on the weather, outbreaks of pests and the like. If you were a hop buyer and you thought yields would be low, and the tax take (based on quantity) subsequently low as well, but the price high because of scarcity, you bet on a low tax take, and at least made some money as you paid top whack for your hops. If you were a seller and feared a big harvest and low prices, you bet on a high tax yield, and made up for the smaller amount you got for your hops by winning on the hop betting.

The point is that prices of agricultural products go up some years and down others. That doesn’t make current shortages of hops and barley for malt any less serious. To me it’s obvious that being a brewer is about as lucrative as being a farmer.

But while history teaches us ingredient prices will moderate, I worry about long-term price pressures. Take a look at what Maureen Ogle wrote week before last.

She’s right. It is a flat world. Hops and barley are going to have to pay higher rent on the farmland where they are grown or farmers are going to grow something else.

But let’s head into the weekend on a cheerier note, with more from Harper’s:

Poetry and song and the pages of romance have united to make classic the vine-clad hills of the Rhine and of Italy, and next to the ruined castle which crown their commanding heights the traveler looks for the clustering fruit which has give its name to all this region. But he looks in vain if he expects to see anything which adds picturesqueness or beauty to the landscape. A vineyard is not in itself “a thing of beauty.” On the other hand, the golden wreaths of hops, as they hang ripening in the August sunshine, depending in graceful cluster from the tall poles, or swinging in the breeze in umbrella-like canopies, give to the hills and alleys of Central New York, or the slopes of distance California and Washington, or the meadows of sunny English Kent, far more of beauty than the boasted vineyards of France or of Italy ever dreamed.

Sounds more romantic to me than driving around Illinois backroads looking at corn and watching grasshoppers splatter on the windshield.

GABF: Last call (all the news that didn’t fit)

It’s time to bid a fond farewell to Great American Beer Festival coverage, so a few notes from the tattered pieces of paper I found in the pockets of my jeans after their official post-GABF washing:

No, it won’t be GABF East: Ten years after the Great American Beer Festival on the road didn’t play well in Baltimore (at the time Stephen Beaumont wrote “What If We Gave a Beer Fest and Nobody Came?”) the Brewers Association will give it another try on the East Coast, but not with something that looks like at all like GABF.

Plans for (savor) an american craft beer & food experience were announced just before the awards ceremony Saturday. The event is May 16-17 (2008) at the Mellon Center in Washington, D.C. One brewer said he had heard it will be a “high end, food-oriented event.”

Three BrothersSchlitz retro rumor: Word is Pabst will re-launch Schlitz beer using a throwback recipe. Pabst and Schlitz, of course, were two of the breweries that made Milwaukee famous in the 19th century.

Now Pabst, itself a contract brewer, owns the Schlitz brand. Schlitz was the second largest brewing company in the world in the early 1970s and still second in the U.S. (to Anheuser-Busch) in 1976 when the company made two incredibly stupid decisions. By 1982 it was out of business, although the brand has continued to be brewed at other breweries and sold as a low-price beer. The resurrected recipe is said to be from well before the 1976 missteps.

More wood at New Belgium: Brewmaster Peter Bouckaert of New Belgium Brewing seemed on the verge of giggling at the thought that a) his crew can finally take charge of the new bottling line and b) they have new barrels to play with.

Barrels? Like the four 60-gallon bourbon barrels a brewery near me is picking up? Like the first wine barrels he began infesting with critters back in 1998?

“No, 130 hectos,” he said smiling broadly. Most of us would call the 130-hectoliter vessels tanks, since they’re the same size as six other 130s the brewery added in 2001. They hold about 3,400 gallons each.

Overheard: Volunteer after being asked a question by a festival goer. “It’s fermented with Brett. Does that make it a barley wine?”

Best post I haven’t linked to yet (Because it wasn’t up yet): From Matt Van Wyk of Flossmoor Station.

You don’t want it to end (b/c work awaits you Monday), but I hadn’t seen my two kids since they groggily dropped me at the airport Tues. at 6 AM, waving at me the whole time the train departed for the city. It’s funny that no matter how many medals I win, no matter how many colleagues I meet or made anew, no matter what I did wrong this weekend, Nick and Ella sprinted to me shouting “Daddy, Daddy, Daddy”. I love that gold medal I won this weekend, but I’d surely trade it for that experience coming home Sunday afternoon. (I told you it was a roller coaster of emotions-now go ahead and cry, you big tough guy!)

Alpha King results: Bell’s Two-Hearted Ale, the original Alpha King winner, returned to the victory stand this year by placing second. Pliny the Elder from Russian River was first, and El Camino IPA from Pizza Port San Clemente second. None medaled in the GABF judging.

Beer I enjoyed most: AngelsShareCeriseCasseZwickelbier-
IchBinEinBerlinerWeisseKiwandiCreamAleOrodeCalabazaBlindPigIPA-
GoldenArmPilzHopSueyWatermelonFunkSigdasGreenChiliPrimaPils

or maybe it was

OtisAltTheGreatPumpkinRed&WhiteBoscosFlamingStoneBeer-
InterludeSaisonBrettPennWeizenStormcloudIPABeerHunter-
Brooklyner-SchneiderHopfen-WeisseOompahLoompahChocolateBeer

There were others as well.