First up, the paragraph, because the link doesn’t go directly to the story.
“If you want to know whether your relationship is built to last, forget the pros-and-cons list, skip the astrology compatibility charts, and go straight for a bottle of saison.”
That’s the lead to “Saison as Relationship Barometer: Dating. Farmhouse ale. Saving yourself six months of disappointment.” A clever way to present a field guide to an elusive style. The story is only available in print in Final Gravity 10, and here’s a link to get it.