Out of office message

Somewhere along the northwest edge of the United States

A few links before an upcoming hiatus that will continue until after the Great American Beer Festival. If you find yourself missing me, I’ll be there Oct. 11.

Were I inclined to take the time, which I am not, I would explain how the following links relate to a question I’ve been trying to make sense of for too long now. First I have to figure out how to properly phrase that question. Call it a work in progress.

Tilray lays off 10 Barrel Brewing’s entire Innovation Brewing Team and Carnage at 10 Barrel. The usually wise Ron Pattinson once wrote, “I don’t want innovative beer.” I do.

Craft Beer Can’t Afford to Be Local Anymore. Ahem, and not just because I wrote a book called “Brewing Local.” Local is still part of the DNA for, like, 90 percent of the small breweries in the country. Not 90 percent of the volume of craft beer sold, which is what this story is about.

Soon 30 years ago, Daria and I were standing on the former “killing floor” of a sausage factory that had become Left Hand Brewing with co-founder Eric Wallace (this was one of those times when you remember exactly where you were when you heard something). Wallace, who figures prominently in this VinePair story, said: “The large brewers are not tooled to do what we do. They’ll have to build less-than-efficient breweries to make beer like we do.”

I should, and will, maybe even at GABF, talk with Wallace about just what he meant when he said, “We can make your beer more efficiently.” I’m not prepared to abandon the thought embracing efficiency means abandoning inefficiency altogether. Or that innovation does not include what Tonya Cornett has been doing for so long in Oregon.

That’s already more than I meant to write this week. There are dots to be connected, but not now. Instead, a reminder that should you be jonesing for beer links between now and well into October visit A Good Beer Blog on Thursdays and Boak & Bailey on Saturdays.

Monday beer reading: Hum along with the Staple Singers

Beer union members on parade.

The biggest news last week was Teamsters Local 322 has requested Sapporo-Stone Brewing to recognize the union as the exclusive collective bargaining representative of Stone Brewing’s employees.

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The Minnesota State Fair concludes today. I mention this because the World Brewing Congress, also in Minnesota, wrapped up only two days before the fair started. It was have been so nice to stick around for all manner of unique Fair Food, much of it fried. In recent years, the fair has added specialty drinks as well. Like Blueberry Pancake Lager, Purple Maize (after all, it is Minnesota), and Mini Donut Beer.

A few lists:

Best fair food
New fair food
Returning specialty sips
New specialty sips
Drinks that almost happened

Makes glitter beers seem pretty tame.

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QUOTE OF THE WEEK I
Also name of the week

“I think that the dirty little secret of Montana is that we like our beers a little sweeter than we want to admit. I mean, I love IPAs. I drink them all the time. But I think the biggest segment of drinkers like a slightly sweet, smooth beer. The commonality between a Coors Banquet and Cold Smoke is that they’re both a 10 IBU, malt-forward beer.”

— Al Pils

From More Than Just IPA: Across America, Craft Beer Has Surprising Pockets of Regionality

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QUOTE OF THE WEEK II

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Monday beer reading: ‘Postmodern’ redux & ‘local’ redux

Art+Science=Beer hat, seen at 2024 World Brewing Congress

I am enamored with the potential of question and answer format that Alan McLeod debuted last Thursday. I may give something similar a whirl one of these months. But given that this week’s dispatch is being filed from the Indianapolis International Airport, brevity wins.

POSTMODERN

Last week at the World Brewing Congress (where the photo above was taken), I don’t remember how the conversation turned to the proliferation of beer styles. But Dan Vollmer, senior manager product strategy & research at Boston Beer, said there must be a better way signal to drinkers what to expect from a beer. Samuel Adams best two seasonals, he said, are Octoberfest and Summer Ale. “They both tell you when to drink them,” he said.

Joe Stange started using the term postmodern beer in 2011, if not earlier, at the blog he called Thirsty Pilgrim. He elaborated on it in a 2015 post for Draft magazine (archived by the Wayback Machine). Now Courtney Iseman acknowledges “postmodernism has been a bit of a moving target in beer.”

LOCAL

In case you missed it, I wrote a book titled, “Brewing Local.” I have opinions about “local beer.”

A dozen years ago, this was the topic for The Session.

Last week, Jeff Alworth wrote, “What’s curious is how contingent that concept of local is.” It is, he admitted, a pretty bloggy blog post. One that invites comments (which he would appreciate), kind of like The Session, back in the day.

YOU MIGHT ALSO ENJOY

“Thank You For Paying Black People” I’ve been disappointed not to come across more dispatches from Barrel & Flow 2024. As well as this field report, there was news Em Sauter has a new book, “Pairing Beer With Everything.”

Not all tastemakers are vintners. Bow & Arrow Brewing CEO Shyla Sheppard and Crafted for Action founder Jen Price snuck into Wine Enthusiast’s wine-heavy Future 40 Tastemakers 2024.

Because Jack D’Or lives on (you know if you know). The Beer Nut makes a pilgrimage to St Mars of the Desert. He also found Fantastico! “Anyone looking for juicy haze here will be disappointed. I have to say I liked this more serious and adult take on the style, one that isn’t trying to convince you it’s secretly a soft drink.”

Mash like its 1893. And there is this, “Allegedly, some breweries add fir pitch to the kettle at a rate of 3-4 lb per 100 barrels of wort to impart a pitch flavour to the beer, as the lagering vessels are not pitched but only lacquered.”

Speaking of local. The sale of Magnolia Brewing in San Francisco (again) means it will be locally owned (again).

Monday beer reading: Stay safe out there, plus regional, local & fancy beer

Smoky hop peparedness workshop at the World Brewing Congress in Minneapolis.

Greetings from Minneapolis, where the World Brewing Congress will continue through Tuesday. The photo above was taken during a smoky hop preparedness workshop.

Today there will be three presentations related to making sure non-alcoholic beers are safe to drink. This is important and was already on my radar when I read “How Mash Gang is Breaking the Alcohol Free Mould.” That is not to imply that Mash Gang beers are not safe, or that the story should address what the company is doing to assure the beers are free of pathogens. It simply reflects my current fascination with what brewers might do to make non-alcoholic beer better without the many useful functions ethanol performs. One of those is making beer safer to drink.

I’ve written about how adding hop character may make NABs taste better and about putting flavors back into NABs that may be lost in the production process. Both stories are behind the same paywall, but the list of benefits alcohol provides appears before you hit the wall, so to speak, in the second.

Making flavorful beer without the help of alcohol, and often without got-to-love-them compounds that result from the fermentation process, is hard. Shouldn’t the challenge appeal to a crafter of crafts?

Granted it is better to start the Mash Gang story at the beginning, but it really kicked in here:

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Lotta Monday beer reading, starting with ‘authenticity’

There were many words spilled over beer last week, including some from Jeff Alworth related to one of my favorite topics: authenticity. He even headlines a phrase, “authenticity trap,” that I almost always have to explain during conversations with brewers.

In his post he leans to a passage in which “Holt demonstrates how iconic brands exude authenticity by encompassing political and cultural authority as resources for self-expression.” I’m pretty sure that is Douglas Holt, a marketing consultant who along with his partner Douglas Cameron, was responsible for the tagline “Follow your folly, ours is beer,” that New Belgium Brewing used for more than a decade.

In 2003, Holt and Cameron created a commercial that features a character they called The Tinkerer, who finds an old bicycle at a garage sale, carefully restores it, and then happily rides it into the Colorado countryside.

They outline their strategy for New Belgium in a chapter called “Fat Tire: Crossing the Cultural Chasm” within their book, “Cultural Strategy: Using Innovative Ideologies to Build Breakthrough Brands.” As well as Fat Tire, those brands include Nike, Jack Daniels, Patagonia and others. The word authentic comes up in most chapters, but usually as a given and without a definition of what it means to be authentic. What is clear is how important whatever they label authenticity is to those focused on marketing.

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