The paragraph:
“It’s the paradox of a terroir that never really existed,” Sandrine (Goeyvaerts) adds. “You see all these images glorifying the terroir, saying that we need to return to peasant-style consumption, to eat like people used to… And then you’ve got guys stuffing themselves with foie gras, bone marrow, endless slabs of meat, and drinking Saint-Joseph. But we know that’s not how people in the countryside actually eat. Anyone who’s lived in rural areas knows that’s not everyday food.”
One point of order. I understand the role of headlines, but “Tradition is a Lie — French Wine’s Place in France’s Far-Right Gastronationalism” should not be taken to mean that tradition does not exist, or that a lie is automatically involved.

