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Call it beer friendly, kid friendly, or just call it friendly

Yesterday The New York Times posted a story about beer garden play dates and I nudged All About Beer magazine editor John Holl on Twitter because he once wrote a story for that magazine (before he was editor) about beer gardens and of course mentioned the family friendly aspect. Later in the conversation that followed John pointed to a more recent story from AABM about the rise of family friendly breweries, proudly noting, “Seems the Grey Lady is swimming in our wake.” Jeff Bearer popped with an delightful picture and added, “for some of us, breweries have always been family friendly places.”

I will spare our daughter, who will turn 18 in little more than a week, the embarrassment of showing a photo of her in her portable car seat at her first brewery. It was Joe’s Brewery (RIP) in Champaign, Illinois, and she was about two weeks old. She’d been in more than 100 breweries by the time she was two years ago. It should be no surprise that it made sense for Daria and I to feature kid friendly places when we were writing the travel column for AABM. This appeared in the summer of 2000 and is dated in parts (some of the establishments are long gone, sadly), but it provides insight into beer culture not really long ago.

I should also add that Nico and Porter Ortiz (pictured in the story) visited St. Louis last year for a dad and son weekend. No surprise that when we met up with them it was in the beer garden at Urban Chestnut Brewing.


In a scene that will be repeated by parents across the country this summer, we glanced back at our daughter snoozing in her car seat, at the clock on the dashboard and the roadmap, and began thinking about where and when we would stop for lunch.

We were headed north on Interstate 25, and Sierra obviously was going to sleep right through Pueblo. Next stop, Colorado Springs. We knew just the spot — Il Vicino Wood Oven Pizza & Brewery. They make what Sierra considers a perfect kid’s meal, a child-sized version of Pizza Margherita with tomato sauce, mozzarella and fresh basil.

It costs $2.50, slightly more expensive than a McDonald’s Happy Meal once you pay for lemonade — but they give her pizza dough to play with while the pizza bakes … and mom and dad can order fresh beer.

Such a pleasant pit stop would have been unlikely just a few years ago. Kids and beer together, in a setting that treats both well, is a recent phenomenon in the United States. Only in places that replicated the Old World, such as the German beer gardens of the late 1800s, did this happen. Of course, there are those who will argue it still shouldn’t, and would be happy handing out the literature the Anti-Saloon League used 100 years ago in lobbying for the passage of prohibition. One of the best-selling books for the 19th century, Ten Nights in a Barroom, had a picture of a little girl on the cover, grasping her father’s arm and crying, “Father, come home!” In one of the book’s best known scenes, a little girl is trying to retrieve her drunken father from a saloon when she is knocked unconscious by a flying beer glass.

 Ten Nights in a Barroom

We doubt that many children were actually felled by flying glass in those saloons, but clearly these weren’t family places. The taverns and bars that emerged after prohibition in the 1930s weren’t as rough and tumble, but many still didn’t tolerate women, let alone children. Don Younger of the well known Horse Brass Pub in Portland, Oregon, likes to point out that as recently as the 1960s state law prohibited bars from having windows that were less than six feet above the ground. That didn’t exactly encourage civility. “We had nothing else to do but get drunk and say [expletive deleted] a lot. It was crazy. I don’t know how we survived it,” Younger says.

Even today, you had best check the house rules in Oregon pubs rather than assuming children are permitted. They may be banned, by law, from all or part of a place in the evening (of course, no matter where you are places tend to be kid friendlier before things get too late or too busy). The law can be just as confusing in Washington state. Basically, Washington law does not permit children to be present where beer is served. That means children — even babes in arms, we found out the hard way — cannot venture into a place that has a pub only license. Many brewpubs have both pub and liquor licenses and erect a wall that those under 21 should not venture beyond. Then there is the Elysian Brewery in Seattle. It features “taps from the sky” that hang down from the ceiling rather than sitting on the bar. Since the beer taps do not actually touch the bar, it qualifies as a “lunch counter,” and children may sit there.

Quirky laws aside, brewpubs — remember, there were none in 1982 and now there are more than 1,000 &#151 have developed into dependable stopping places for parents, including those looking for unique food as well as beer. Although a growing number of restaurants are catering to children — 40 percent of those with an average check size of $25 or more provide entertainment for children &#151 they aren’t always as easy to spot as something with “brewpub” and “brewery” in the name.

On a recent Saturday afternoon, we had lunch and beverages (beer for us, lemonade for Sierra) at our local (Rio Rancho, N.M.) brewpub, Turtle Mountain Brewing Co. At a neighboring table, two couples enjoyed soft drinks with their lunch while their four children dined at the hightop table next to them. They come into the brewpub about every other month, sometimes for beer and sometimes not. The kids love the pizza and soft drinks made on premise.

Nico & Porter Ortiz, Turtle MountainAt the hightop next to the kids, Turtle Mountain owner Nico Ortiz was feeding his own baby son, Porter. Porter doesn’t actually spend that much time at the brewpub — only when both his mother, Liz, and father are busy working there &#151 but snoozing behind the bar in his carrier, he makes the place immediately friendlier for everybody.

“Catering to families was a central element in our original business plan,” Ortiz said. “Part of the reason for going with the (wood oven) pizza was that pizza is kid friendly. That’s why we make the root beer and cream soda. The kids can feel like they are having a pint with dad.”

That hasn’t hurt Turtle Mountain’s beer business a bit. Nearly 40 percent of its sales are beer — on the high side for a brewpub. “Rio Rancho tends not to be kid friendly restaurant-wise,” Ortiz said. “We knew that if the kids like to come to Turtle Mountain that would play a real big part in the decision.”

In fact, James McNeal, a professor of marketing at Texas A&M University, points out, “When it comes to selecting restaurants, children typically make these decisions about 75 percent of the time.”

It takes more than providing a children’s menu, having high chairs or a place to park a stroller. At Fox River Brewing in both Appleton and Oshkosh, Wis., the tables are covered with white paper and crayons are set out. When a server first appears at the table, he or she writes his or her name upside down on the paper. At the Appleton pub, a conveyor track runs through the pub with kegs hanging from it, and the names of each of the beers are written on the kegs. There’s plenty to do and look at until the food arrives, and there usually isn’t somebody constantly telling kids to be quiet. The best of pubs achieve a particular noise level — below the din of a noisy bar with loud background music, so conversation is possible, but loud enough that mom and dad aren’t worried the kids are annoying the people at the next table.

Because we sometimes visit breweries before they are open when working on stories, Sierra has been afforded more latitude than most children. Brewer Dave Raymond at Vino’s Brewpub in Little Rock, Ark., just smiled when she hid his brewing boots. They let her climb around on kegs at Stone City Brewing in Solon, Iowa.

So maybe she’s a little more comfortable then most kids in a brewpub, and maybe not. We were in Turtle Mountain on a busy Friday night in February, waiting for a table to open up when she struck up a conversation with another 3-year-old from the next town over. Pretty soon they were making plans to get together.

“It’s a matter of instead of being a chain of making it more of a homey kind of place,” Ortiz said. Call it beer friendly, people friendly, kid friendly or just call it friendly.

More examples of what we mean

We’ve taken Sierra to places that were perfectly friendly — particularly since we often traveled with a portable high chair — but weren’t exactly geared toward children. For instance, the Balcony Bar in New Orleans, which had 75 draft beers for us to choose from and French fries Sierra really enjoyed, was a great place to sit on the balcony and watch Saturday afternoon traffic drift by on Magazine Street. And there was Four Green Fields in Tampa, an Irish pub we visited with Daria’s brother, Ricky, and his son, Michael. When Michael missed the board a few times in the course of shooting darts, nobody flinched.

With that in mind, here are more places, brewpubs and otherwise, where you and the kids can relax with the beverage of your choice:

Mews Tavern, Wakefield, R.I.: Plenty of places have no interest in being kid friendly, and their patrons like it that way. The Mews, which was a men-only club when it opened in 1947, calls the bar itself a “kid free zone” but also has an intimate, woody tavern area with booths that are perfect for containing a precocious child. The Mews has 69 beers on tap, 200 single malt Scotches and maybe the best sweet potato fries we’ve had anywhere.

Redfish Brewing Co., Boulder, Colo.: The New Orleans-style menu is on the upscale side for a brewpub, and the beer lineup is diverse, often featuring Belgian-influenced ales. When Sierra managed to free the first purple balloon they tied to her high chair and watched it float to the ceiling more than 20 feet above, the server simply smiled and gave her a new one.

Sam Choy’s Breakfast Lunch & Crab Shack, Honolulu, Hawaii: The servings are so large here that when a plate was delivered to a neighboring table a customer at another table got up and took a picture. Kids love the show. There’s also a boat in the middle of the restaurant (with a dining table inside).

Die Bierstube, Frankfurt, Ill: Not every German restaurant-bar caters to children, but they are nearly as good a bet as brewpubs. Booths to the side of the bar here are like small rooms.

Parting Glass, Saratoga Springs, N.Y.: Irish establishments are not nearly as good a bet as German spots. The menu may not be as diverse and the patrons may consider the bar their own. The Parting Glass, though, is more restaurant with a broad menu and separate music room.

Last Chance Saloon, Columbia, Md.: This is more British pub than wild west saloon. Not only does the dining area cater to families, but it seems perfectly reasonable to bring children into the bar area. We once saw a man plop a young child right on the bar top while he had a beer. More than 50 draft choices.

Redbones, Somerville, Mass.: It’s crowded all the time and they won’t take your name for seating until they can see everybody in the party. The darker downstairs and small bar area upstairs are best left to adults, but kids are welcome in the main dining room. This place passed the 2-2-2 test (two kids under two, time to enjoy two beers). The 24-tap lineup is as good as anywhere, but the barbecue might be better.

ESPN Zone, Baltimore: If you are going to go for the video-and-more gaming experience you might as well go all the way. This is a great spot for when the kids get a little older (or you want to be a kid). We still recommend spending the afternoon wandering around Fells Point before the crowd arrives at great spots like the Wharf Rat Bar, but you can get interesting beer here while the kids play.

Barclay’s, Oakland, Calif: A little rowdy on Friday nights, but very pubby and with a menu adventurous enough for parents who want something new and tame enough for kids. Barclay’s has served an astonishing number of beers from 30 taps since opening in 1991, rotating them often and adding at least three new ones every week.

Mickey Finn’s, Libertyville, Ill.: Regulars loved this place when it was “just” a bar, but when it converted to a brewpub in 1994 the menu got broader and it became more appealing to the suburban family crowd. We’re partial to the operating electric train the chugs around just below ceiling level.


Are we there yet? Beer personalized to your own hoppy tastes?

You can read it right here, explanation marks and all: “Engineers have developed a ‘barista-type experience’ for beer drinkers where a barman can adjust a gadget fitted to a beer tap to adjust the ‘hoppiness’ level on demand.”

“Hoppier” works much like Randall the Enamel Animal, which Sam Calagione of Dogfish Head Craft Brewery invented more than 10 years ago. Engineers at Cambridge Consultants might be putting a little more emphasis on pressure (“We knew, for example, that pressure is fundamental to extracting flavour in espresso machines – so part of our investigation was to see whether it does anything for beer.”), as the video illustrates.

Randall and a variety of devices other brewers built since (I’ve had Budweiser though a Randall-like filter, on more than one occasion in fact) prove that filtering beer through hop cones will create different aromas and flavors than are in the beer alone. Extracting essential oils may make the beer taste more “hop-like” and fresher or grassier. But it is a might bold to suggest the engineers “have ‘transformed’ the brewing and dry-hopping process, which usually tales two weeks, to enable consumers to change the flavour of beer in seconds.”

There’s more going on in the torpedoes used to make Sierra Nevada Torpedo Extra IPA, because dry hopping involves more than just extracting flavor from hops. They how, what and why are not perfectly understood. For instance, researchers in Germany just determined that the transfer rate of various compounds varies, which is not exactly a surprise. But it appears that this rate may also vary based on the variety of hop involved. Makes writing formulas difficult. Hop scientists often talk about the importance of synergy — put two compounds or more (hops contain more than 400) and they may create other compounds or the way each is perceived may be changed by the presence of others.

In addition, yeast becomes a key player in dry hopping, because of the biotransformations that occur when yeast and hop hang out together — another area where much more research is needed. Those aren’t going to occur in the seconds it takes beer to pass through the “Hoppier.” Sierra Nevada has studied this is much as any brewery on earth. The brewery uses two different methods to dry hop. One is to attach eight-pound bags of hops, which will be more than four times heavier after absorbing beer, to rings that have been welded to the sides of tanks. Beers will then soak for up to two weeks.

Torpedoes used for dry hopping beer at Sierra Nevada Brewing

The other process uses the torpedoes (thus named because the tanks look like torpedoes turned on their sides), invented because Sierra Nevada was running out of real estate at its original brewery in Chico, Calif. Each one can hold up to 80 pounds of hops. It is purged with CO2, then beer is circulated from the bottom of the cone to the bottom of the torpedo, up through the torpedo and back into the tank. The beer, freshly dosed with hop oils, passes through a tube within a tube (called a periscope) so that it returns higher into the tank. Otherwise, beer in the bottom of the tank may become saturated and won’t retain any more hop oil.

Brewmaster Steve Dresler said results vary dramatically based upon temperature and flow rates. Torpedo Extra IPA circulates for five days, beginning at 68º F (20° C) and finishing cold, extracting all the oils Sierra Nevada wants out of the hops much more quickly than with the passive bag system. However, the parameters are the same with bags. Dry hopping begins at 68º F, and yeast will still be active.

“We don’t get the same floral estery notes in some other beers if we use the torpedo process simply cold without yeast contact time,” Dresler said.

Edward Brunner at Cambridge Consultants may well be right when he says, Hoppier gives brands to stand out in the marketplace and “It’s a way of building on the current trend of personalisation to create new experiences and add value for the consumer.”

But it’s not necessarily a substitute for dry hopping.


PS – Yes, the tagline “Beer brewed by engineers” should send a chill down your back.


Is beer still the most democratic drink?


Which side are you on? More from the “Let There Be Beer” campaign, in which Ed Wray writes “There seems to be clear division between whether we should be promoting beer as a premium product or beer for mass consumption.” And, “So beer geeks, the line has been drawn: Which Side Are You On?” Ask a question, get an answer, I guess. A lot of them here, and plenty of back and forth. So many noteworthy comments I thought about making this week’s links/musing just links to them. Pull of a stool — it is worth the time.
[Via Ed’s Beer Site]

What Has Become of Our Beer? Tiah Edmunson-Morton at the Oregon Hops and Brewing Archives has scanned in several late 1940s-early 1950s items she found in The Hopper: the hop grower’s magazine. The last quotes heavily from “TRUE, The Men’s Magazine” and is proof there was at least one beer geek in 1952. He talks about his first brush with beer on a farm in Stelton, New Jersey.

Later there is this: “A man who is a brewmaster at one of the ten largest breweries in the country said to me, ‘The beer we’re making today got no resemblance to the beer we put out after repeal in 1934 and ’35 and ’36. We were making a real beer then, like a pro-World War I beer, and you took a drink of it and got the taste of hops in the back of your throat. Your knew you were drinking a good glass of beer.'”
[Via Oregon Hops & Brewing Archives]

Single Hopped Kentish Ale - TescoSupermarket boost for British hops. Tesco is the first British supermarket chain to sell a beer with the British Hop Association logo on it. The beer features East Kent Golding hops and the back label explains that the EKG variety’s parent was called Canterbury Whitebine and first grown in 1790. The publicity is good for British hop growers (an aside, Ali Capper tweeted it was a great week for UK hops at Brau Beviale), but ask yourself: “What is wrong with this picture?” Not to pick on Shepherd Neame, @MrJohnHumphreys, but geez, what’s with the clear glass? What hop aromas are you trying to showcase?
[Via Protz on Beer]

Illegal Beer Is Brewing a Massive Following in Venezuela. Dozens of small breweries have sprung up in Venezuela over the past five years, and although selling these beers brewed in homes is illegal many do a brisk business with liquor stores and restaurants.
[Via Munchies]

On cellaring, a polite way of saying “forgetting.” I particularly like “The cabinet of all lost souls.”
[Via Community Beer Works]

Extreme Beer Judging. Pete Brown judges homebrew in Italy. For the record, when you judge homebrew competitions in the United States you put your name and email address on every sheet.
[Via Pete Brown]

A Master Sommelier Gives a Winery Tour. Finishing with a bit of levity. And because the only thing better than hearing beer types making fun of wine types is reading wine types making fun of wine types.
[Via HoseMaster of Wine]


Blast from the past: ‘Macros or micros?’

Paste Magazine has a rather comprehensive post today which is pretty much what the headline says: “A Not-So Nefarious History of Craft and Crafty Beer.” I don’t need much of an excuse to dig into the personal archives. So here’s something I wrote for All About Beer in 1997, as is, without the benefit of a safety net the rear mirror can provide.

The subhead on this story read: “What happens when the large breweries enter the ‘little guys’ territory?”

Scene 1: A church-run festival in Covington, La.
Boiled crawfish cost $1.25 a pound, Rockin’ Dopsie Jr. is pounding out zydeco, and cups of beer sell for $1.50 each. The choices are Budweiser, Bud Light and Michelob Hefeweizen. When a customer orders the hefeweizen — and quite a few do — the man taking the orders turns to the pourer and says: “One heavyweight.”

Scene 2: Applebee’s Grill & Bar, Milwaukee, Wis.
A customer orders a beer called B. Barley’s, which recently became available on tap at Applebee’s around the country. The tap handle includes the information the ale is brewed by Jacob Leinenkugel Brewing Co. Although B. Barley’s is made exclusively for Applebee’s and available only on tap, when the customer returns home to northern Wisconsin he tries Leinenkugel’s Auburn Ale from a bottle, which is not exactly the same beer but similar.

Scene 3: Cyberspace.
The brewers from Anheuser-Busch Specialty Brewing Group are conducting a live tasting of Michelob Specialty beers on the Internet, providing frank and specific answers to questions about A-B products. Somebody in Orlando, Fla., wants to know why Crossroads, a beer test-marketed in 1995, was never put into full production. Brewer Steve Michaluk notes the beer may have been “ahead of its time,” and that it was much closer in style to a Bavarian hefeweizen than the current Michelob Hefeweizen.

Michaluk and Mitch Steele make it clear they are nonetheless proud of the second beer and delighted with its malt character and the influence of Cascade hops. “American hefeweizen might be more aptly named American wheat ale,” Michaluk types, “which is what our Michelob Hefeweizen is and what most of the hefeweizens popular in the Northwest are.”

The largest breweries in the United States are sending their specialty beers where they haven’t gone before, often where no specialty beers have gone. While those at smaller breweries watch with understandable concern, in most parts of the country the short-term result has meant more choices for consumers. “The good news is that more people will be able to get good beer,” said American Specialty Craft Beer Co. manager Scott Barnum, who oversees the specialty brewers that Miller Brewing Co. owns partially or in total.

First, it’s a business

Beer lovers shouldn’t forget a key ingredient in the explosion in their number of choices — there’s money to be made selling beer. Anheuser-Busch is in business to make money, as are Miller Brewing Co., Sierra Nevada Brewing Co., Three Floyds Brewing Co., Two Brothers Brewing Co. and more than 1,000 other breweries in the United States. So are the importers, wholesalers, brewpub operators, bar owners and retail store proprietors.

That’s why the Wall Street Journal and major metropolitan newspapers publish stories about the business of beer, pondering macros going micro and micros going macro. But why should you care about the battle for shelf space in retail stores and tap handles in bars? That six-pack of Michelob Amber Bock in the cooler in a Nebraska gas station didn’t replace a beer from Pyramid or Rogue. It replaced a cold six of some beer you weren’t going to buy.

That’s not the way some smaller brewers and their supporters look at it. They heard those Anheuser-Busch ads that attacked the Boston Beer Co. and are well aware that A-B has made it clear it expects its distributors to focus on selling A-B products. Since A-B and Miller distributors carry enormous clout with retailers, it’s natural to wonder how much room will be left on the shelves and at the bar for small brewers’ beer.

Investors flocked to buy microbrewery stocks two years ago based on future growth in the “high price” segment. The potential for growth remains, but Robert Weinberg — a mathematical economist who consults for both large and small breweries — recently warned microbrewers about making predictions.

“The battlefield will not be in the high price segment. The major brewers will try to re-establish the super premiums,” Weinberg said at the National Craftbrewers Conference in Seattle. “You will be competing with a super premium that doesn’t currently exist.”

Budweiser is a premium beer, Michelob a super premium, and most micros high price. “As the relative price of malt beverages declined, consumers were willing to trade up,” Weinberg said. A-B understood this when it rolled out the Michelob specialty beers. “We have seen some cannibalizing,” said Bob Franceschelli, senior brand manager of the Specialty Brewing Group, meaning that the brewery was essentially stealing sales from itself. “We’re going to end up moving a lot of people into the micro/specialty area. Were they going to move anyway? Probably.”

Deja vu all over again?

Haven’t we seen different beers from the large brewers before? Miller test-marketed Dakota, a wheat ale, in the 1980s. “It was a very good beer. You could drink a lot of it. Very satisfying,” said Jim Robertson, author of the Beer Taster’s Log. “It was an American wheat beer — no cloves or bananas, but it went down smooth.”

The beer simply couldn’t get a hold in any market. “A company not only has to have a good product, but the market has to be there, too,” Barnum said.

Anheuser-Busch tested a variety of beers in the 1990s, including Anheuser Maerzen and Anheuser Pilsner in 1990 and Crossroads in 1995. Robertson remembers when he tasted the Maerzen for the first time. “I thought, this is a classical Maerzen and that these guys could wipe out anybody they wanted,” he said.

Muenchener Munich Style Amber, which the brewery introduced with its American Original beers in 1995, earned three stars (out of four) in Michael Jackson’s Pocket Guide to Beer, but has already been discontinued. Likewise the Elk Mountain beers.

So is it safe to fall in love with any of the latest efforts? A-B is used to selling very large amounts of every beer it makes. Beer is brewed in batches of 400 barrels at it Merrimack, N.H., plant, 500 barrels in Fairfield, Calif., and 750 barrels in Fort Collins, Colo., the three sites where the specialty beers are made. That’s more than was produced of some of the most highly praised microbrewery beers in all of 1996.

Franceschelli said the brewery’s expectations have changed since those earlier tests. “Absolutely. It’s been a huge learning curve,” he said. When the Michelob specialty beers were introduced in February, “we told (distributors) one case in an account is outstanding. Start with one bottle.”

Anheuser-Busch appears to have learned a few things from smaller brewers. In April it rolled out sampler packs of the Michelob specialty beers. It also packaged the draft beer in one-sixth-barrel kegs (one-third the size of most kegs), finding room in crowded taproom coolers and moving the beer while it’s still fresh. Micros and homebrewers have long used smaller kegs, often reconditioned five-gallon soda kegs.

Putting the special in specialty

Although the Stroh Brewery Co. sells a lot more of its own beer, its leadership knows a little bit about the craft beer market. Stroh brews much of the beer for Pete’s Brewing Co., Boston Beer Co. and its Oregon Ale and Beer Co. It brews and sells the Henry Weinhard and Red River specialty beers. It even makes some of the Black & Tan beer sold by D.G. Yuengling & Son, America’s oldest operating brewery.

“We have to do things differently, to look for niches,” said Mark Steinberg, vice president of sales at Stroh. Anheuser-Busch and Miller have more advertising dollars to support their specialty beers, but don’t have the sales to justify the costs. “Besides, if they spend too much, the beers lose their specialty,” Steinberg said.

“There’s something about a customer going into a bar and finding something new,” he said. “People like the sense of discovery in this category.”

Anheuser-Busch, Miller and Coors Brewing Co. have all taken different approaches. Coors’ Blue Moon beers command micro prices and are available in all 50 states. They include funky styles consumers expect from micros — such as a pumpkin ale and raspberry cream ale — but also a Belgian white, a nut brown ale and, most recently, an abbey-style ale. The beers were first developed at the SandLot Brewery at Coors Field in Denver, then brewed under contract at other breweries. Rumors abound that Coors will soon buy a small brewery to produce the Blue Moon brand beers.

Miller’s strategy for selling in the specialty category has been through partnerships. The Reserve line it brewed itself in the early 1990s is long gone, and the brewery has no plans to make specialty beers. “I can never say never, but as this juncture, no,” Barnum said.

Although each of its first three partners is different, that doesn’t mean Miller has been building an overall portfolio to take national. “We’ve said before that this is a regional business,” Barnum said. “More and more, you will see people contracting, narrowing their focus.”

When Miller acquired a majority interest in the Celis Brewery in 1994, the Austin, Texas, brewery was selling its distinctive Belgian-style beers in more than 30 states. Miller cut that down to a handful of states. “They were allocating beer to their distributor in Austin. You can’t build a business like that,” Barnum said. Now that the brewery has added capacity and taken care of its home market, it is available in 14 states. “Celis does well in micro-favorable markets where Pierre (Celis, the brewery’s founder) is known and revered,” Barnum said.

The stories for Shipyard Brewing Co. and Jacob Leinenkugel are different, but similar. Shipyard, brewer of traditional British ales, is available in 12 states. Leinenkugel, the seventh-oldest brewery in the nation and known almost exclusively for its lagers despite the B. Barley’s ale, is sold in 27 states (plus draft in Applebee’s in some other states), but is strongest in its Wisconsin home and the surrounding states.

“You can’t be all things to all people,” Barnum said. At Miller that has also meant deciding which is the macrobrewery and which is the micro (you’ve seen the ads).

“The consumer has a hard time paying an above-premium price for a beer brewed at a larger brewery,” Barnum said.

One from column A, two from column B

The leadership at Anheuser-Busch obviously doesn’t believe that, although A-B has also gone into the strategic alliance business. A-B not only brews the Michelob Specialty beers and the American Originals, but is testing other recipes that take direct aim at the high price market. Its ability to put these beers in the pipeline is evident across the country. Not only will you find the Michelob specialty beers in the cooler at a gas station in Baton Rouge, La., but you’ll find beer from the Redhook Ale Brewery as well.

A-B owns a 25 percent share of Redhook, with the right to buy more. As summer began, A-B and Widmer Brothers Brewing Co. were working on finalizing a similar deal. “We have and are talking to more breweries out there. We are being approached quite regularly by these people,” Franceschelli said. While others figure A-B has the money simply to buy up the competition, the deals won’t come that fast. “We make more on what we brew ourselves,” Franceschelli said.

The five Michelob specialty beers released nationally will shock the taste buds of drinkers stepping up from Budweiser and its brethren. Bud, for instance, checks in with 12 International Bittering Units, a measurement of hoppiness. The Amber Bock, Pilsner, Pale Ale and Hefeweizen are all 30 IBUs. The Honey Lager, which goes heavy on the honey, is 12.5 IBUs. The result is that the Pale Ale, which is hopped with American versions of noble European hops, tastes more like a golden ale, while the Hefeweizen, hopped with Cascades and Clusters, hints of a pale ale. The Pale Ale and Hefeweizen are made with the same yeast.

Core microbrewery drinkers often want beers with more pop. The Michelob beers are “not intended to … knock your tonsils out,” Franceschelli said. Steele, the Specialty Group brewmaster, agrees. “The American Originals are a notch above the Michelob brand in intensity,” he said. The American Hop Ale is 5.6 percent alcohol by volume and 50 IBUs. It’s dry-hopped with a healthy dose of American Fuggles. The Black & Tan Porter is the best selling of the “Originals” and hoppier and more complex than the Michelob Porter currently available only in the Northwest.

The most interesting of the current A-B beers is the Pacific Ridge Pale Ale, brewed in Fairfield, Calif., and available only in Northern California. The beer has been called a Sierra Nevada clone, though Steele said it wasn’t brewed as an exact copy. “Our wholesalers asked us for a beer like this … what we were going for was something of that style. I think Sierra Nevada is the best of that style that’s out there.”

The numbers for the beers — Sierra Nevada, 5.5 percent ABV, 39 IBUs; Pacific Ridge, 5.6, 35 — are similar, and so is the taste. Dry-hopping with Cascades gives Pacific Ridge the citrus quality that makes a beer drinker think of Northern California. But like all A-B ales, Pacific Ridge is pasteurized and lacks the yeast character of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. SNPA regulars aren’t likely to mistake the two.

“Pacific Ridge has good opportunities to be expanded,” Franceschelli said. “You will see some new beer before the end of the year.”

These may or may not be labeled Michelob or American Originals. Steele offered some test batches to members of the press in May. Included were a British-style pale ale, an Irish “creme ale” that is conditioned with nitrogen and meant to be dispensed via a Guinness-type system, a spiced winter lager, and a Scotch ale that seems to be a good candidate for reaching the public.

The Scotch ale got good reviews at another press gathering last November, when it was being made on A-B’s 15-barrel pilot system in St. Louis. August Busch III reportedly likes the beer, and the batch Steele showed off in May was made at the Merrimack facility, indicating it’s a step closer to being released. “We’re making the effort,” Steele said, smiling. The beer contains so much malt that it’s mashed in two vessels, then combined into the brew kettle. Two kinds of caramel malt and chocolate malt make the beer more complex than any of the current A-B efforts. The recipe produces a beer that is 7 percent alcohol by volume, which would present distribution problems in some states.

At the turn of the century, A-B brewed 17 brands of beer, ranging from the Hop Ale (which was a low-alcohol temperance beer also sold by mail order) to the Black & Tan Porter. “They were mostly lagers,” said A-B archivist Bill Vollmar. While the brewery could keep turning out beers based on those old recipes, the test batches from Steele and Michaluk focus on new recipes. “There’s a demand for (more choices) and we’re going to satisfy that,” Franceschelli said.

Those crowded shelves

Smaller breweries hope Anheuser-Busch doesn’t try to supply all the choices itself. Of course, craft breweries with shelf clout, such as Boston Beer and Pete’s Brewing, have been adding “year round” beers for the last several years. Much of the battle for space is among microbreweries themselves, and recently that has sparked plenty of teeth-gnashing.

“Everybody I talk to is waiting for the great shakeout,” said Peter Fremming, beverage coordinator at Premier Gourmet in Buffalo, N.Y. “I just don’t see that happening.”

Premier Gourmet sells more than 500 different beers, most of them by the case, six-pack or single bottle, as well as prepared gourmet foods, cooking ingredients and supplies, 90 varieties of coffee roasted in the store, and much more. It’s not at all like the grocery store down the block, but Fremming previously worked for a beer distributor, so he understands how those salespeople think.

“They know that if you lose one bottle facing (placement) on the shelves, it means so many lost case sales,” he said. The battle in the supermarkets is not just to squeeze out beer competitors, but for continued cooler space. “They have to give the supermarkets something new to sell, or they cut four feet off the beer cooler and put in more eggs and cheese,” Fremming said.

Now, the battle for space among specialty egg dealers, that’s a whole ‘nother story.


Session #94 announced: Your role in the ‘beer scene’

The SessionHost Adrian Dingle has posted the topic for The Session #94: “Your role in the beer ‘scene’. What it is?

Ding explains by describing how he feels his own role has changed, then reels off several questions (I like it when hosts do that – makes it easy to pick one):

“So, where do you see yourself? Are you simply a cog in the commercial machine if you work for a brewery, store or distributor? Are you nothing more than an interested consumer? Are you JUST a consumer? Are you a beer evangelist? Are you a wannabe, beer ‘professional’? Are you a beer writer? All of the above? Some of the above? None of the above? Where do you fit, and how do you see your own role in the beer landscape?”

The next session is Dec. 5.


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