Process: Where greatness and quality meet

Jack's Abby Porch Fest

A can of Jack’s Abby beer

Thirty-eight years ago, Brewers Publications released its first title, “Brewing Lager Beer.”

Ten years later, when an expansive update, “NEW Brewing Lager Beer,” was published, author Greg Noonan wrote, “The trickle of knowledge available to craft and homebrewers when this book was first published has become a flood.”

Twenty-eight more years later, the newest book from Brewers Publications is “Modern Lager Beer.”

The flood has not abated, but new information is not all about MLB that is different. BLB was never just about lagers. It followed a “how to” approach, and served as a manual for home- and microbrewers, as they were known at the time. MLB is only about brewing lager and takes more of a “how they” approach. Authors Jack Hendler and Joe Connolly of Jack’s Abby Craft Lagers spoke with more than 70 brewers and beer professionals before they wrote the book.

What is the same is an important lesson: There is no one way to brew great beer, but there is a way.

The authors get right to the point in the introduction.

“When American craft brewers create lagers, they often do so without changing any of the processes or brewing techniques they use for their ales,” they write, later adding, “while American craft ale fermentation is at the absolute cutting edge of quality, American craft lager is lagging woefully behind.”

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Monday beer reading: News, insights & pub crawling

First up, this is not a place for breaking beer news. I like to think the RSS feeds I subscribe keep me in touch without paying much attention to social media. Thus I was surprised Sunday to come across the news, from several days earlier, that co-founder Marcus Baskerville is stepping away from Weathered Souls Brewery in San Antonio. So surprised that I did a quick search on X and saw only a single mention.

Here’s the news. The co-founder and head brewer who was the force behind the Black is Beautiful beer initiative that has raised millions of dollars will be doing something else soon. He told MySA “he’ll open up about his next steps, once he’s ready.”

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LEDE OF THE WEEK

In 2010, U.S. craft beer was hurtling fast toward the mainstream. Dogfish Head founder Sam Calagione had a reality show on the Discovery Channel, New York Magazine was writing about saison, and the Brewers Association was shifting its outreach into high gear with new advocacy campaigns. But as it gained popularity, craft beer remained a mostly white, mostly male business. In Chicago, a small brewery was a decade ahead of its time in trying to change that.

. . .

But 14 years after the dream of 5 Rabbit was born, its beers are just a memory.

From “Chasing Rabbits — What Happened to the Latin American-Inspired Brewery in the U.S.?”

QUOTE OF THE WEEK

“I have a theory about hip-hop, which is that you have to keep coming up with new theories.”

This is actually a line from Questlove’s new book, “Hip-Hop Is History,” but let’s treat it as if he said it and then replace “hip-hop” with “beer.” Something to talk about next session at the pub.

Stillage

DID SOMEBODY SAY CASK?

It appears that many words were spilled after Jeff Alworth asked What if CAMRA Had Valued Quality Over Romance? The nut:

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Monday beer reading: Hops, haze & sustainability

Hop cones working their way through a picker

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Evan Rail writes about the size of the drink industry’s carbon footprint. Huge. “But don’t despair,” he writes, “there are ways to fix the carbon impacts of the drinks we love.”

And if this report is to be believed, beer drinkers are willing to help. In a survey of 3,500 drinkers, almost half said they would pay up to 30 percent more for a more sustainably produced beer.

More than 60 percent said “that the sustainability of their beer now directly affected their choices in pubs, bars and supermarkets. 80 percent believe that reducing waste is relevant to sustainable beer production, 76 percent cite a reduction in energy and 63 percent also note the importance of reducing water use.”

Pardon my skepticism, but a 30 percent increase makes a $7.50 pint (when you can find one at the price) at $9.75 pint. What if the question had been put to them that way? I am reminded about discussions with hop merchants and their efforts to sell more sustainable hops. “In our experience, brewers are interested in the information and want to support the general notion of sustainability. But, it’s a very rare brewer/brewery that will actually let this influence what varieties they use,” said Indie Hops co-founder Jim Solberg.

TAKING THE BAIT

Jeff Alworth writes that he is setting “set forth compiling a modern-day version of the Book of Lists here, on the subject of beer.” Is he serious, is this different from listicles like one about “overrated hazy IPAs” linked to below? But he started with hops, so how can I not comment?

I’m not above trying these exercises in the privacy of my mind, or even within a group of drinking companions. I get asked what my favorite hop might be all the time. Once, nearly six years ago, Jeff and I were in a group sharing beers at the Benedictine Brewery below the Mount Angel Abbey. I came up with a list of the “most significant” hops in history, based on the influence they played across time. (Sounds presumptuous, doesn’t it?)

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Monday beer reading: Style, culture and XPA

The big news Friday was that billionaire Hamdi Ulukaya, the Turkish-born CEO and founder of Chobani, has purchased Anchor Brewing, lock, stock & steam. The stories will keep coming in the next few days, some with bits and pieces that have not been previously reported. We’ll have to wait for the most interesting ones, which will come from on the ground and be about what hasn’t happened yet. When I see them, I will pass along links.

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Dewey decimal system for country subgenres

Step away from the beer bubble for a moment to consider style. It is a function of culture, right?

Let’s start with the conclusion of Jeff Alworth’s riff on a post about XPA at Hop Culture, which goes, “Style is one useful way to think about beer, but it’s not the only way. Too often, it blinds us to something more interesting.

“As a final comment, I’ll connect this point to the discussion last week about hazy IPAs. See what happens when you think of them as less a style than a function of beer culture. Does that change the way you think about them?”

Has “beer style” disconnected from “beer culture,” and if so, when and why?

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Memorial Day beer reading

Black Canyon of the Gunnison
Sunday, Boak & Bailey wrote about the pleasure of a pint at the end of a hike (see below). Later in the day, we were hours away from beer when I took this photo looking southeast* across Black Canyon of the Gunnison. But eventually, there was a lager flavored with hops from nearby Billy Goat Hop Farm. Small world.

* Looking straight south offered a spectacular view of the San Juan range, but not as revealing a look at the canyon.

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I do not agree every word in the paragraph that follows, but Alan McLeod provides context for considering the links that will follow.

“What Andy does not seem to want to admit is that it’s not about the rise and full of each particular form of drink but a greater overall trend. These sugar bomb beers that are labeled as Hazy IPA are nothing more than the beery sibling to RTDs, coolers and hard seltzers. Interchangeable. Forgettable. Cavity causing. They may sell but they are part of that continuum that speaks to a candy fixated palate. Kinderbier. Easy to make and easy to sell with the right cartoony can wrapper. In fact, their rise was perfectly culturally appropriate for the troubled times, a perfect drink for an era of crisis that started with the shock of Trump getting elected and then continued on through the daze of life in the pandemic. They are booze for unsettled people who have bigger things to deal with, those who don’t want to think about it. Any of it. The ‘eating a box of ice cream sandwiches standing by my fridge because I can’ of beers for folk who no longer can muster the energy to give a shit. What sort of industry bases its long term health on that sort of consumer? By all appearances, this shrinking one called craft.”

Jeff Alworth writes he “has been seeing a lot of grumbling” about hazy IPAs, a sense of lost fun, and a generalized mood of dyspepsia.” He points to thoughts from:

      * Stephen Beaumont.
      * Pete Brown.
      * Drew Beechum.

Alworth asks, “Are things really very dismal, and if so, how dismal?” He quickly adds, “I think things are actually pretty good,” and then provides context.

On another Monday, I might choose to add additional context. But it is Memorial Day in America and “sure is gonna be fun.”

Instead, a single thought. A certain amount of back and forth following Evan Rail’s post earlier this month has been about how so little in beer these days is new. Beechum writes it is no longer hip.

Here’s the thing. Hip is seldom forever. That is a feature of hip. In “Hip: The History,” John Leland writes, “Once opposed to mainstream values, hip now seems merely a step ahead of them. It is taken for granted that what is hip today will be mass tomorrow.”

Perhaps that is a cynical, commercialized view. What is not cynical is that the beer from [                    ] is not going to be mass produced. Fill in the space between the brackets with the brewery of your choice. Zebulon Artisian Ales would be a fine one. I would suggest more, but it is Memorial Day in American and I have more James McMurtry to listen to.

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KICKER OF THE WEEK
As opposed to the regular Lede of the Week

To criticize an active and engaged audience of hazy IPA drinkers just because you don’t personally prefer the style or think they should be drinking helles is self-defeating. Hazy IPA has helped connect younger drinkers to craft beer. Unless you want a taproom occupied by a handful of 55 year old dudes grumbling about the good old days on RateBeer and BeerAdvocate, I’m not sure that shitting on hazy IPAs makes any sense.

From the aformentioned Hazy IPA Conspiracy Theories in All About Beer

QUOTE OF THE WEEK

“The problem with this flavor thing is that eventually you’re a kumquat”

JB Shireman of Arlington Capital Advisors, from Beer Crunchers

PUBS

Pubs: They’re quite good
This is related to the ongoing discussion about beer writing, including at the top. From Boak & Bailey: “We’re absolutely not objective when it comes to pubs. We’re highly emotional and irrational. We think they’re a good thing and that it shouldn’t be left to the market, and cold-hearted commercial logic, to decide whether they survive.

A pub on the edge of reality
“After hours with the sea on one side and woods or open land on the other, you become gently disconnected from reality.

“It becomes about putting one foot in front of the other, warding off the sun, warding off the rain, and negotiating never-ending ups that lead into never-ending downs, in never-ending cycles.

“This has the effect of making almost any pub you reach at the end seem idyllic, and any beer taste like nectar. In this case, though, the pub really was special.”

Infinity lost.
“The pub was a bigger landscape that stretched beyond every horizon. Now it feels like the last days of a zombie film, where only the main protagonists linger on. The characters that weren’t important at the start have long gone. But, beyond fiction, they were important, despite what James May says.”

On loneliness part II
“Why does time spent in the pub help alleviate a sense of loneliness? My belief is that you are around people, but not with them, and therefore free from any responsibility for them. You overhear conversations which, in my case as a writer, are a seam to be mined with the utmost vigour and energy. You are on the edge of gatherings, a spectator of family and friends getting together and the energy comes to you, though not in a vampiric way, but maybe it is like being at a gathering, a gig perhaps, or watching a TV drama in which you are incredibly engrossed and invested in. Energy shared.”

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How Dovetail Brewery Uses Engineer-like Precision to Master Neglected Beers
. . . there is this brewery.