The Session #7: The Brew Zoo

The SessionRick Lyke has chosen the theme for the seventh round of The Session in September. In short, Welcome to the Brew Zoo.

Have you ever noticed how many animals show up on beer labels? We have lions and tigers and bears, plus various birds, reptiles, fish, assorted domesticated and wild animals, plus a few mythical creatures. For whatever reason brewers have a tradition of branding their beers using everything from pets to predators. The Brew Zoo will celebrate these lagers and ales.

What’s the over/under on Moose Drool Brown?

Beer visits the American Cheese Society

Cheese, beer and cheese, and more cheese today in the Boston Globe.

The paper reports on the 24th annual American Cheese Society conference in Burlington, Vt. You may have to register to read the stories, and the main story doesn’t seem to be online, but here goes:

Some say beer beats wine in this pairs competition. Ann Cortissoz reports on a presentation by Brooklyn Brewery brewmaster Garrett Oliver. Matt Jennings, co-owner of Farmstead cheese shop and La Laiterie gastropub in Providence, says: “It (beer and cheese) is the only way to go. It’s a much more natural fit.”

I also learned that a “Cheese Wars” clip from The American Brew – one of the outtakes I think, I don’t have the DVD with me – is on YouTube:

What’s on cheesemakers’ minds. A quick looks at issues like values, mentorship and growth. What other up-and-coming artisan product might that be relevant to?

“So much is done by touch, feel, and sight,” said Rachel Cohen, a distributor for Cowgril Creamery in California. “You can’t get it from a book.”

Don’t drink the Mild Kool-Aid

Brace yourself now that Hobsons Mild, at 3.2% a session beer if there ever was one, has won Champion Beer of Britain.

We’ll be reading about how great Milds are. Same with session beers. And so on.

Take it all with a grain of salt. This is not a Turning Point. It will not change what we drink in America one bit.

The American beer revolution has been powered by what Tomme Arthur of Lost Abbey Brewing fondly calls flavor-driven beers. They don’t have to be 12% abv, but generally they are stronger than 3.2%.

Consider these top sellers: Samuel Adams Boston Lager (4.9% abv), Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (5.6%), Blue Moon Belgian White (5.4%), and New Belgium Fat Tire (5.3%).

Not extreme, not low alcohol. Seems to be working pretty well.

Hard as it is, I’ll stop there.

The Session #6 roundup now available

The SessionGreg Clow has posted his roundup for The Session #6 (fruit beers for those who have forgotten).

Looks like we’re closing in on three dozen contributors, which could soon make the bloggers involved a buying force that the bigger brewers will have to sit up and pay attention to. (OK, scratch that, silly idea.)

Look for Rick Lyke’s upcoming announcement of the theme for Session #7. If he sticks with the idea he was thinking about then it’s one we all can (and should) have fun with.

The Session #6: Berkshire Raspberry Strong Ale

The SessionBerkshire Brewing founders Chris Lalli and Gary Bogoff first brewed Raspberry Strong Ale for Christmas in 1990 using three-quarters pound of whole raspberries per gallon and it became in instant Christmas tradition.

When they started making it commercially in 1996 they stuck with real fruit, which is why it seems like an excellent choice for today’s Session. [The Session is a virtual gathering of beer bloggers on the first Friday of the month, all writing to the same theme. Greg Clow hosts today.]

They cut back the raspberries a bit, using one-half pound per gallon, adding them after primary fermentation. “After seven-to-ten days you can see the berries start to turn a fleshy color,” Bogoff said. That’s because the color, and flavor, has moved on to the beer. It pours a reddish-brown that takes almost all its color from the berries because the base beer is a strong pale ale.

“We made it as a Christmas treat,” Bogoff said. “We like fruit, but we thought beers made with extract or syrup ended up more on the soda-sweet side rather than tasting like beer.”

They brewed seven barrels back in 1996, while they made 60 barrels for release on Valentine’s Day this year and plan to brew 80 barrels in December for Valentine’s Day 2008.

“We did it to spoil ourselves,” Bogoff said. “We knew that if we did a beer like this in 1994 (the year Berkshire opened) we’d have been out of business in two months – it was just too weird.”

They quickly discovered that tracking down raspberries for a 210-gallon batch was a bit more of a challenge than for 10 gallons. They ended up ordering raspberries grown in Chile through Sysco. Four years ago they found a local farmer who can provide enough fruit. He harvests the berries in July and August and they are frozen and stored at a nearby ice cream plant.

The result is a deceptively strong 9% abv beer (its nickname in the brewery is “Truth Serum”) that leaves a final impression of fresh raspberry. Underlying malt complexity, the sweet-tart raspberry balance and a relatively dry finish all help it avoid that soda sweetness Bogoff was talking about.

Granted, he’s biased and has been drinking the beer for more than 16 years, but earlier this week he was just another guy drinking Raspberry Strong and he finished his glass before I downed mine (although I was liking each sip).

Had Chris Lalli been around as well I probably would have been third. After all, these guys made this for themselves.