The Session is back, and a few good things have happened since 2018

Garrett Oliver sending a message to Robert Young III

The Session logoThe Session is back and the topic today is, “What is the best thing to happen in good beer since 2018?”

This sounds like a big picture question that requires a big picture answer, not something along the lines of “Halfway Crooks Beer opened in Atlanta” or “Rochefort still brews amazing beer.” As good as those things are.

Instead, something important like “Lukr faucets” or “terpenes.” (Granted, both existed before, but many words have been devoted to them since 2018. Not that either is my final answer, Alex.)

The best thing to happen in beer since 2018 is positive change, more specifically the establishment of the Michael James Jackson Foundation for Brewing and Distilling and the National Black Brewers Association.

Brooklyn Brewery brewmaster Garrett Oliver has been central to both. That’s why he’s pictured at the top, sending a message (really) last April to Tapped 33 Craft Brewhouse founder Robert Young III to stay on top of his studies in Germany. Young was there studying brewing on a scholarship.

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Monday beer links: Severance, elitism and bits of pleasure

First, don’t forget that Alan McLeod will host the first gathering of The Session since Dec. 12, 2018. Here’s everything you need to know to participate. And please do.

Beginning of story in The New Brewer about when two organizations merged to form the Brewers Association.

The most interesting story of the week, at least to me, is that American Homebrewers Association will operate autonomously from the Brewers Association. There are plenty of “what next?” questions. Some are answered at the AHA website.

Before the AHA and BA are severed, it is worth a few minutes to consider how important homebrewers were in establishing what became the Brewers Association. You could start with the timeline: The AHA was formed in 1978 (and announced in Zymurgy magazine), the Association of Brewers was organized to include the American Homebrewers Association and the Institute for Brewing and Fermentation Studies in 1983, and Association of Brewers and the Brewers Association of America merged to the Brewers Association in 1995.

That merger did not come easily. Steve Hindy provided details in The New Brewer magazine in 2006 and later in “The Craft Beer Revolution.” Negotiations went on for about two years, the meetings “intense and sometimes contentious.” Randy Mosher was on the BAA-AOB task force formed to consider the merger.

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Monday beer links: Pioneers and what comes next

Sean Franklin, Roosters Brewing, during simulated World Beer Cup judging session in 2006

Sean Franklin assessing beers (Seattle, 2006)

In the second paragraph of a profile of Roosters Brewery, Matthew Curtis establishes that Sean Franklin is one of the pioneers of modern British beer.

In the third, he writes, “Caught in a weird limbo that exists between Britain’s heritage-laden family brewers that can claim decades, if not centuries, of brewing tradition, and the slick, self-confident modern beer brands that emerged in earnest around 2010, Roosters is part of a small set of breweries that shares aspects of both camps, but doesn’t quite fit into either.”

This story examines what comes after the pioneer. By chance, the post and news that an announcement the inaugural group of inductees into the American Craft Beer Hall of Fame will be streamed Feb. 15 reached me about the same time. More pioneers and more opportunities to consider what came next.

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TASTING NOTE OF THE WEEK

“Who else would be making 90 Shilling? Open Gate’s is 6.8% ABV. This is a heavy fellow, dense with unfermented malt sugars, while also laced by bitterly vegetal hops: serious stuff. There’s a definite Highland Toffee element to the centre, and it’s enjoyably warming and chewable. On adjusting to the bitterness I found a more nuanced red-liquorice side to it. I’m no expert on what 90 Shilling is meant to taste like, either historically or whatever American homebrew culture has since turned it into, but this is quite a good beer, and was well suited to the cold and drizzly evening on which they served it to me.”

          — John Duffy, The Beer Nut
From Arthur’s Last Christmas

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SUBHEAD OF THE WEEK

“Every drink takes five minutes off your life.” Maybe the thought scares you. Personally, I find comfort in it.

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Monday beer links, because pleasure should not be problematic

Some good reading from the past week after a reminder that Alan McLeod will host “The toe in the water revival edition of The Session.” The topic is “What is the best thing to happen in good beer since 2018?” Participation is welcomed.

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LEDE OF THE WEEK

Alcohol research has a problem with pleasure. On the one hand, pleasure is a difficult phenomenon to research, at least from an epidemiological or clinical perspective. On the other, because of its predominating focus on harms, public health-oriented alcohol research and advocacy can appear to find pleasure problematic in the moral sense. Although most people drink because they enjoy it, much public health discourse downplays pleasure as either marginally significant or as a kind of misperception driven by external forces including marketing, custom, social norms and peer pressure.

From Taking pleasure seriously: Should alcohol research say more about fun?

This is something of a cheat. The link is to an academic paper (h/T Phil Mellows). There have been plenty of posts the past week related the surgeon general’s warning about alcohol and risk of cancer. Lots of good, bad and ugly. I am linking to none of them. There is no denying the negative impact alcohol has on your body. It is stupid to claim otherwise. The rest I leave to Mary-Chapin Carpenter.

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QUOTE OF THE WEEK

“When I know I’m lighting the fire, that’s when I love to have (Leann Folláin). It’s a beer to savour and enjoy. I’ll make sure the doors are closed, that I’m not going to be disturbed. It’s something you want to spend a bit of time with.”

          — Ed Cahill, who runs Tully’s pub in Carlow town
From The Irish for Stout — O’Hara’s Leann Folláin and the Making of a Cult Classic

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YOU MIGHT ALSO ENJOY

Rule #1: Beer Is Almost Never About Beer. “The idea of having a beer comes with guilt, obligation, wonder, intellectual curiosity, respect for tradition, desire for novelty, camaraderie, budgetary concern, the potential to do someone a good turn, and the sheer joy of bouncing around the city like a pinball. The promise of an idle afternoon that might be wasted but isn’t frittered away. Hopefully people will be happy to see me.” To which I will add, it’s also OK if at least sometimes it is about beer.

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Monday beer links: The future, Belgian woes & Grodziskie

The other side of Marcin Ostajewski, head brewer at Browar Grodzisk

The back side of Marcin Ostajewski, head brewer at Browar Grodzisk in Poland, whose sweatshirt signals how happy he is to share information about brewing Grodziskie. Details in final link below.

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In the final Taplines podcast, frequent guest Maureen Ogle joins host Dave Infante to talk about the future of America’s beer industry. There’s a big picture and a smaller picture. As usual, it is the niche that interests me. So hang around for the final eight minutes.

That’s when Ogle says, “It’s easy to focus on A-B and Molson Coors and so on and so forth, but, in fact, a lot of families, thousands of them, have been able to build small businesses based on alcohol.” And, “A lot of families are raising their kids and paying their mortgages, by owning a small brewery.”

Ogle has been at work for some time on a book about the Marti family and August Schell Brewing, which has been family owned since 1860. It’s a great story, but many breweries with shorter histories (meaning every one in the United States other than Yuengling) have similar stories to tell. I thought about this listening to what Lauren Buzzeo has to say — during the Drink Beer, Think Beer podcast labeled Predictions for Beer in 2025 — about finding stories. There are not many predictions tossed about, but toward the end, Buzzeo and John Hall and Andy Crouch talk about how much they like reading full stop in print. Me too.

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QUOTE OF THE WEEK

“He called me a ‘bitch of a landlady’, to which I said, ‘From you, I’ll take that as a compliment’. He wanted to fight me.” . . . “I don’t take shit. Me and my husband have a rule that if there is an issue with a man, I deal with it – there’s less danger of confrontation.”

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