A (beer) critic’s job? Demolishing the bad?

“A critic’s job, nine-tenths of it, is to make way for the good by demolishing the bad.”
                    – Kenneth Tynan

I tend to scribble things I come across — could be in a magazine, a book, on a menu — on scraps of paper. This one I’ve been carrying around on a breakfast receipt since last May. I’m still not sure what to do with the thought, but it’s time to put it somewhere so I can throw out the receipt. I’m filing it here.

There are a million amusing quotes about criticism, so I don’t know why I’ve kept this one around so long.

When I figure it out, I’ll let you know.

(But also, to be clear, this not a call to arms. Here I can lean on H.L. Mencken, who said: “A critic is a man who writes about things he doesn’t like.”)

Book review: Learning from ‘Brewing Battles’

Brewing BattlesThe countdown to April 7 has begun. A good place to follow along is Maureen Ogle’s blog. It will be 75 years ago April 7 that breweries resumed shipping beer, albeit lower strength (3.2% alcohol) until Prohibition was repealed later in 1933. Thus the Brewers Association, Beer Institute and National Beer Wholesalers Association are promoting a 75 Years of Beer celebration.

So far you won’t see many events listed, but it would be fun to find something like the one Portneuf Valley Brewing plans closer than Idaho. The brewpub will sell a nine-ounce glass of Ligertown Lager for 10 cents, compared with the usual cost of about $2.

Heck, the taxes on a glass of beer run more than 10 cents, which — to be honest — is one of the reasons Prohibition ended. As long as we are celebrating history it’s good to view it from more than one perspective. Beer back = good. Why = more complicated.

If you view American beer history through the filter of Stanley Baron’s “Brewed in America” and then Ogle’s “Ambitious Brew” you’ll see facts hidden in the shadows in one look different in the bright light of the other. Same with “Beer & Food: An American History” and “The U.S. Brewing Industry: Data and Economic Analysis.” (More about all these in Book Reviews.)

Add Amy Mittelman’s “Brewing Battles: A History of American Beer” to the list.

Mittleman has a Ph.D. in history with a special focus on the politics of alcohol production. Obviously that includes examining the role of Prohibitionists, but also taxation — an issue with beer long before the first European settlers arrived in America.

The United States Brewers Association (USBA), the nation’s oldest trade association, was formed in 1862, not coincidentally the same year the federal government started taxing beer. The USBA worked with the government, the government assured that taxes would be collected and the brewers minimizing (as much as they could) how much they would be taxed.

Despite increasing rhetoric from Prohibitionists this was a solid partnership for more than 50 years. Until ratification of the Sixteenth Amendment (introducing federal income tax) in 1913 liquor industry taxes provided more than 50 percent of the federal government’s revenue. Little wonder that if you browse through the USBA’s annual yearbooks from the ‘teens you get a sense that the government surely would not ban the sale of alcohol and eliminate the source of most its income. By 1920 they were wrong about the income and wrong about Prohibition.

Prohibition did not end simply because the federal government, and now the states (which generally had not taxed liquor), reconsidered the need for the taxes liquor generated. However it did take them only a week after beer resumed shipping to pass new taxes. And 75 years later we’re still debating “sin” taxes.

That’s not all there is to this book. It’s certainly academic in tone, with even more footnotes than “Ambitious Brew” (don’t take that wrong; I like footnotes), but Mittleman doesn’t settle for just economics and politics.

Often the details are more interesting than sweeping generalizations, most of which you may already have read. These may be quick facts, such as what brewery workers were paid in the 1860s, or a mixture of culture and politics, like the debate between those who wanted to make the annual release of bock beer a major promotion and those who wanted to discontinue production altogether.

She certainly sees the big picture, for instance using the Miller Brewing arc — beginning with Frederick Miller in the 19th century, rattling the brewing industry in the mid-20th century when Philip Morris buys the company, and continuing in the 21st century as a global company after being acquired by South African Breweries — to take us right up to today.

She does not linger over modern micro/craft brewing, but does get to a point at least one person (me) thinks matters.

The emergence of craft brewing highlights a battle within the brewing industry over authenticity and identity. Since World War II the national brewers have connected beer to all things American — baseball, barbeques, race cars, and pretty, sexy women. Yet the nationalizing of the beer industry removed one of the most potent aspects of beer’s identity — localism. The new generation of brewers emphasizes its connection to place and community even more than taste. They stake a claim to authenticity via their roots in a specific locale.

There’s little chance they’ve been around 75 years, but go ahead and toast them on April 7 (or 5th or 6th, because party dates may vary).

Beer news that sucks: Bass Museum closing

The Morning Advertiser reports that Coors has decided to close the visitor center, formerly known as the Bass Museum, at its Burton-upon-Trent brewery in order to save money.

The areas that will close include the Museum, The Brewery Tap, the Gift Shop and all meeting rooms. The White Shield micro-brewery will remain open. Discussions will continue with East Staffordshire Borough Council regarding the future of the Tourist Information Centre, which has its home at the CVC.

Keith Donald, business services director at Coors, explained: “We have tried everything to make the CVC viable (including a revamp last year and free entry to Burton residents). Despite this, visitor numbers have continued to fall and the subsidy needed has increased. It is important for Coors to build the long term future of its brand portfolio to safeguard its future and Burton’s future as the worlds’ brewing capital.”

Coors says the facility the facility costs the company £1 million a year, but this is just plain sad.

We’re talking Burton-upon-Trent and Bass. Doesn’t that matter any more?

The Session #14 announced: Beer People

The SessionThe Session heads across the Atlantic in April, with Stonch hosting Round #14 from his London stomping grounds.

The theme is “Beer People,” and he explains:

On Friday 4th April, the date of the next Session, I’d like you to write about people. Choose someone you know personally. That person might be a brewer, a publican, someone who sups at your local, or maybe just a friend who is passionate about beer. Let’s read some pen portraits of your companions on the path to fermented enlightenment.

I’m not sure about the enlightenment part, but I’m already looking forward to April 4.

Monday musing: Nothing like tasting it yourself

Details from “Project Genome,” the study that revealed all about wine “image seekers,” help tie together last week’s posts about training robots to taste wine, coming up with a tasting vocabulary, and “discovery” in the marketplace.

Beer companies should be just as concerned about “overwhelmed” shoppers as winemakers — maybe more, because beer is supposed to be the friendly-no-pretenses product, right? And Project Genome found that nearly one in four (23%) of wine shoppers feel overwhelmed. As a result they buy less than their share (13%) of wine.

Rows and rows of beer

Constellation CEO Jose Frernandez offered his take on the results: “We’ve under-communicated to these [Overwhelmed] consumers. … If we do nothing, today’s Overwhelmed will be tomorrow’s Overwhelmed.”

He went on to suggest the fact that most people who work in the wine industry are Enthusiasts may account for the industry’s failure to understand Overwhelmed consumers. Enthusiasts account for 12% of buyers but buy 25% of the wine. They walk the walk, but they also talk the talk.

And maybe that’s not always the best thing.

I thought of this yesterday when a friend was over helping me fix our pinball machine. He likes to hang out when I brew beer, and that’s how he got started making his own wine. Nothing fancy, but good enough to win a couple of ribbons in the State Fair. He keeps Coors Light in the fridge at home, but something else is a welcome treat. I know that he enjoys a touch of diacetyl in some beers, Sierra Nevada Pale Ale is as hoppy as he likes, that he thinks sour sucks (that could be a lambic or a badly packaged beer), and that Samuel Adams Cream Stout hits the spot.

So when I hand him a beer I don’t suggest he should be looking for tropical notes, toffee-like flavors or — heaven forbid — aromas of newly-mown lawn. I just hand him the beer. He likes it or he doesn’t.

This is hardly new. It has been happening in brewpubs for more than 25 years, in beer bars that offer sampling sizes, at beer festivals … communication in its most basic form.

– From the Omaha City Weekly: “Over the past year the quality of Omaha’s beer scene has improved greatly. While not every bar, restaurant and retail store has jumped on board a great deal have increased their selection of craft beer.” Did you really envision there would be a time we would be identifying the Belgian beer of Omaha? (It’s St Bernardus Abt 12, BTW.)

– That was some line Saturday at Port Brewing/Lost Abbey for the release for The Angel’s Share.