Malt and hops supply updates

Sorry, I’m pleading impending deadlines and we’ve got this trip to start packing for so just the facts from presentations at the Craft Brewers Conference on the status of barley malt and hops supplies. (I know how you’ll miss my prose).

– The barley malt supply will remain tight until at least 2009. Price volatility is here to stay and higher prices (than historical benchmarks) can be expected.

– Prices for barley for malting are competitive with other crops farmers may choose to grow, but the risk is that if the barley is not selected for malting then it becomes feed barley and those prices suck.

Malting plant capacity is finite. They are built for efficiency, so expansion is not an option. New plants are being built around the world, which requires a chunk of capital.

Small, but no longer tiny. The smallest plant in the United States (which is smaller than anybody would build these days) has the capacity to handle 90,000 tons a year. Craft brewers’ barley consumption is growing by 20,000 tons a year. More tail than dog.

However, and a theme that ran through both barley and hops presentations, small-batch brewers have grown to a large enough collective size to get the attention of suppliers. We’re well past the time that Boulder Brewery had to lean on Coors in order to get Cascade and Halltertau hops or its malts. Taking us to . . .

Base hops prices, particularly aroma hops, must go up. Not the crazy “spot” prices that some brewers have paid this year ($40-$45 a pound in Europe), but ongoing prices.

“The cost of aroma hops have not been reflective if the cost of growing,” said Mike Roy of Roy Farms in Yakima Valley. He suggests that $4 per pound for Cascade hops would sustain long term growth. Hallertau would be more like $10-$11 “if the varieties are going to stay in the ground.”

A new balance will be struck. For instance, German growers might replace some aroma fields with high alpha fields. But then industrial brewers, who this year were desperately buying up any alpha they could find, would focus on the new hop (one called Hercules) and leave aroma hops alone. That would leave make more aroma hops available for brewers who use those hops for aroma. Make sense?

– German hop supplies are almost fully sold for 2008-2010, that is “under contract.” Growers generally contract only 80%-90% of what they expect to yield. Some brewers already have contracts through 2018.

– Contracts allow farmers to commit to expansion. They figure a new yard costs $14,000-plus an acre. But that’s not all that’s involved. A drying facility that can handle 1,000 acres costs $3 million. A picker for with a capacity to serve 3,000 acres costs $1.6 million. Selling hops below production costs, as farmers did for years, won’t fund such expenditures.

– Best estimates are that 6,000 to 8,000 new acres will go into the ground this year in the Northwest, a significant increase from the current 33,000. If 7,000 are planted then about 1,000 of those will be aroma hops.

– More transparency, or communication, may help avert future crises. World hop acreage has been shrinking for years, so perhaps brewers shouldn’t have been caught so off guard. Ralph Olson of Hopunion, who moderated the hops panel, said he remembered when old-line breweries such as Pabst, Ranier and Olympia kept a 6-to-12 month inventory of hops.

And German hop farmers were surprised by demand, particularly from craft brewers, for aroma hops. The Brewers Association has commission a Pipeline Committee to facilitate better communication between suppliers and brewers.

– Bottom Line. Several readers here ask if beer prices will do down once hop and barley prices ease. I can’t see that. Any break brewers get from ingredients will simply help offset rising costs elsewhere — energy prices, stainless steel, glass, etc.

I heard plenty of reports that sales in the first quarter 2008 sales were just as robust as 2007, even after price increases kicked in. But, as one brewer said, “It’s next year I’m worried about.”

Thomas Raiser of Barth & Sohn in Germany made an important point: “You’ve been fortunate to be buying hops (for years) at below the cost of production.”

He was talking to the brewers assembled, but the message for beer drinkers is the same.

A hops question: Do you taste beer like a man?

Today a tree: the Simcoe hop. Tomorrow the forest: the rest of the hops in the world.

And not just because it seems that how you describe the aroma of Simcoe determines if you drink/smell beer like a man or like a woman.

Weyerbacher Double SimcoeSimcoe was only released to the brewing world in 2000 and really is a tree in the forest. Only three Northwest hop yards grew the variety in 2007.

But it’s become a signature hop for many IPAs and Double IPAs, including Double Simcoe IPA from Weyerbacher in Pennsylvania. As noted yesterday, some West Coast brewers refer to its distinctive presence as “dank.”

In a presentation Friday about “dissecting hop aroma in beer” Tom Nielsen of Sierra Nevada talked about gender and age differences in what people perceive when they smell particular varieties of hops. He mentioned a new hop called Citra (nope, I hadn’t heard of it either) and that men describe it as “tropical fruit” while women find it “catty.”

In the course of the following few hours this came up in conversation with several brewers. But we talked in terms of Simcoe, a hop we all know. Venture too far above threshold (we’re learning this varies widely) and you’ve got a beer that will be described as “catty” in polite company, as “cat pee” after a few pints or, credit Natalie Cilurzo for this, “savignon blanc.”

A little goes a long way, but when used well it brightens a beer that is already supposed to be hoppy.

Whether it is because beer touches my feminine side, because I hate cats or because I’ve tasted so many beers hopped with Simcoe I long ago began greeting new ones with skepticism. And the thought of a “Double Simcoe IPA” (two litter boxes in one beer?) tested my typically optimistic nature.

But, bottom line, a good beer. It sounds like the most back-handed of comments to begin, “It doesn’t smell like cat piss,” but that was a my first thought. I like my Double IPAs a little leaner and with a harder (OK, harsher) hop edge, however I thought whatever I spent for the pint (this was in Manhattan, where I always try to forget what I just paid) was well worth it.

There would be no point in discussing this were the rumors — repeated often during the last few months — true that farmers were about to abandon Simcoe. It turns out to be more susceptible to disease than first thought, and the yield per acre doesn’t justify the risk.

However, while one of three fields where Simcoe was grown in 2007 was ripped out this year (taken over by a cattle farm), three more went in. By 2009 they should be yield a decent crop and the next year will be even better.

Weyerbacher founder Dan Weirback meanwhile has been scrambling. He recently came up with — physically in the brewery, not just promised — 3,000 pounds of Simcoe on top of what he already had. That means he has enough to brew Double Simcoe for nine more months and can expect more will be available by then. “We would have run out (of Simcoe) in late summer,” he said.

Double Simcoe IPA accounts for a modest 10% of Weyerbacher sales. Given the hassles, the fact Weirback passed on only the increased cost of ingredients (in the process lowering his margins) this year, and that overall sales were up 34% last year so he’s got plenty to keep him busy . . . it might not seem like such a big deal were he to let this beer slip into history.

But his customers love it. It speaks to the spirit of his brewery. I’m glad it’s not going away.

That from a man who doesn’t much care for cats.

Earth Day: Eric Warner nails it

We’re big on Earth Day in our house, doing the tree decorating thing, a traditional meal, etc. What better way to recycle everything from December?

Seriously, we figure what ever we are trying to celebrate should be practiced every day. So I wasn’t going to comment, and I’m really not other than to say I agree with Eric Warner, lead dog at Flying Dog.

Read what he has to say.

Let’s hear it for the Hoegaarden appellation

Hoegaarden breweryInBev has given up moving Hoegaarden out of the city of the same name, the place that it originated.

As of June 1 all the Hoegaarden beer will be brewed there. Much different than in 2006, when InBev announced it would move production to Jupille.

Seems that didn’t work out so well. By 2007 production was a problem. Part of that was because of increased demand, but a union official claimed, “The beer they produce there often has to be thrown out because it is not at all fit for consumption. So a lot of the white beer coming from Jupille is being shipped to the Netherlands to be made into pig feed. It really is a crisis.”

In any event, InBev has revamped the Hoegaarden facility, boosting capacity to 1 million hectoliters. Hoegaarden won gold last week in the World Beer Cup.

The beer wit and wisdom of the Gourdians

Gourdians T-shirtMorning came way too early Friday at the Craft Brewers Conference, but I was committed to put on a Gourdians T-shirt and make it to the 8:30 presentation titled, “Marketing Outside the Pumpkin.”

Marty Jones (Oskar Blues), David Buhler (Elysian Brewing) and Greg Koch (Stone Brewing) simply did a masterful job of gonzo marketing their guerilla marketing presentation. They played to a standing-room-only crowd. Not only was Marty putting T-shirts in people’s hands on Thursday but they also created posters and backstage VIP passes (Dave Thibodeau of Ska Brewing was sitting next to me and had one of the VIP tags on).

I won’t bore you with a bunch of marketing chatter, but this was 60 minutes of proof that beer is about fun, beginning with a foot stomping song. Marty brought his guitar and Dave wasn’t shy (Greg was pretty quiet).

It’s better with the music, but still might make you smile.

TASTY BEER
© 2008 The Gourdians, All Rights Reserved

OH GOURD WONT YOU FILL ME WITH YOUR TASTY BEER
BEEN A LITTLE QUIET NEED SOME PEOPLE HERE
I’M DIGGING MY BRAIN FOR ONE OR TWO IDEAR
OH GOURD WONT YOU FILL ME WITH YOUR TASTY BEER

OH GOURD DO I HAVE TO BE TOMMY, VINNIE OR SAM
THAT PRESS RELEASE I SENT YOU I’M SURE WAS MARKED AS SPAM
I DON’T HAVE BRETTANOMYCES A BOOK DEAL OR BAND
OH GOURD DO I HAVE TO BE TOMMY, VINNIE OR SAM

OH GOURD WON’T YOU WEAR MY GOURDIAN SHIRT
MR. OLIVER WOULDN’T AND NOW MY FEELINGS HURT
I’VE BEEN TRYING TO BOOST SALES GOTTA SPREAD MY WORT
OH GOURD WON’T YOU WEAR MY GOURDIAN SHIRT

OH GOURD WON’T YOU SEND ME A LARGE OAKEN CASK
I NEED AN AGED BEER AND I NEED IT FAST
IT’S GOOTA BE EXTREME FOR THOSE BEER ADVOCATS
OH GOURD WON’T YOU SEND ME A LARGE OAKEN CASK

OH GOURD WONT YOU FILL ME WITH YOUR TASTY BEER
BEEN A LITTLE QUIET NEED SOME PEOPLE HERE
I’M DIGGING IN MY BRAIN FOR ONE OR TWO IDEAR
OH GOURD WONT YOU FILL ME WITH YOUR TASTY BEER