TWTBWTW: What if micro meant micro?

Oregon hop pickers
Via the Oregon Hops & Brewing Archives (see below)

As always, here you will find a hodge podge of links to stories that recently struck my fancy, most often during the past week. To call it That Was The (Beer) Week That Was, as I did last week, suggests it might be a more complete roundup of beer news that it is. But because TWTBWTW kind of rolls of the tongue, or perhaps serves as a test to check just how much you’ve had too much to drink, I’m sticking with it.

THINGS ARE GREAT, UNLESS THEY AREN’T
Mostly sunny with a chance of occasional showers
“It’s time to break out your sunglasses beer folks.”

It’s going to be a ‘make-or-break’ year for struggling craft brewers
“It’s a good time to be super careful and super strategic because we’re facing rising prices in pretty much everything. We’re trying to think of where we want to be five years from now.”

Craft Beer Posts ‘Steepest’ Declines of Any Segment in the Off-Premise
Declines have accelerated to nearly -10% compared to the -6% decline in calendar year 2021, according to Bump Williams Consulting.

WHAT IF?
Micro-wineries
Napa Valley legislators recently gave final approval to the Micro-Winery Ordinance, which simplifies the permitting process for small producers who make up to 1,000 cases of wine per year. Operators of small breweries will read this story and immediately see parts of their own businesses.

It also got me thinking about micro and driving past liquor stores that advertise “microbrews” inside. Before there were craft breweries there were microbreweries. This wasn’t a legal designation. At the outset, and for record keeping purposes, the Institute of Brewing Studies (the predecessor of the Brewers Association) defined microbreweries as those that produce less than 10,000 barrels per year. That was raised to 15,000 barrels early on, where it remains today.

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That was the (beer) week that was

That Was The Week That Was
I’m old enough that I remember the American version of That Was The Week That Was. Perhaps the hyper links in my brain got crossed, but that’s what I thought of when I spotted the first link here. Except I’m pretty sure it wasn’t intended as satire.

WHO’S COUNTING?
Only 4 ingredients in Bud Light? Yep, at least according to “8 Things You Should Know About Bud Light.” Hops, barley, water and are listed. Really, I read it at least five times. Kinda takes us back to time there was some confusion about the German Reinheitsgebot,

YES, BUT NO
There are good reasons to follow the suggestion in this headline: “Stop Drinking New Beers All The Time,” but I can’t go all in.

Here’s why. Outer Range Brewing makes beer about 60 miles west of ut. A lot of IPAs. They are very good at what they do, so there is no, “Hey, you should get better at this (or that)” first. A new IPA shows up, I might buy it. It will be interesting, something new, a little bit different. But it will still taste like an Outer Range beer. As humans we like what is familiar, but also what is different. Just not too different.

I could say the same thing about Halfway Crooks in Atlanta, although this time about pale lagers. Or . . .

NOSTALGIA
Speaking of our affection for the familiar.

Pop Music’s Nostalgia Obsession.

Best Bitter in a modern world.

14 icons. Beers to celebrate National Beer Day (last Thursday), itself a bit of nostalgia. Included were six hop forward beers and four imperial stouts. But what amused me most about the story is that Anchor Steam was listed as a “California common” when, because of trademarking it is the one historic steam beer that may be called a steam beer.

YOUR BRAIN ON BEER
L’Oréal has a high-tech headset “to help you find your most desired scent.” How cool would it be if a hop breeding company was able to put such a thing to work? This sounds at least as other worldly as flying cars: “During each unique consultation, the headset will grant its wearer cognitive reign to find their ideal fragrance, based on a series of responses to different proprietary scents. Technically speaking, it operates though machine learning algorithms that interpret the brain’s signals to accurately monitor behaviour and preferences in response to different fragrances. Essentially, it helps consumers determine the perfect scent suited to their emotions.”

Additional reading: Perfume cocktails.

BASEBALL IS BACK

West Coast IPA: new school/old school

Monday, SevenFiftyDaily told us “West Coast IPAs Are Making a Comeback.”

Tuesday, Andy Crouch started a conversation about what the true version of the “style” might be.

If you aren’t seeing the tweet, it goes like this: “Once dominant, West Coast IPA has largely disappeared from popular consumption for the better part of a decade now. And those remaining WCIPAs have become softer and hazier to meet the palate shift. Many of these brewers may never have actually tried a true version of the style.”

Because Crouch replied to his own tweet you’ll find different branches of the conversation if you click around. Lots of opinions, including naming names as prototypical examples of the “style.” Jim Vorel wrote it would not be Firestone Walker Union Jack because it veered toward “a fruitier direction.”

So let’s talk about Firestone Walker Union Jack and the Hopnosis, the latter released this year and described as the “ultimate new-school expression of the West Coast IPA.”

When brewmaster Matt Brynildson began working on the recipe for Firestone’s first India pale ale in 2006 he envisioned it might be brewed with English malts and would be fermented, like many other Firestone Walker beers, using the brewery’s unique Union system, and spending time in oak barrels.

The brewers at Firestone Walker made test batches for the better part of a year. “The first brews were maltier, sweeter, not what we were going for,” Brynildson said. The first thing to go was the British malts. “We weren’t trying to hold ourselves to a (specific version). We were going to make the best possible IPA.”

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Monday beer links: Reckoning ahead? Would it be crispy?

Scratch Brewing, Ava, Illinois
St. Louis-based Sauce magazine has six suggestions for brewery/hike combinations in Missouri and Illinois. Of course, Scratch Brewing is one of the destinations. The story would lose all credibility if it were not. We made time eight days ago to get to rural Ava and sample everything on tap. The beers were tasting as wonderful, maybe more wonderful, than always. That’s a fig porter (made with fig leaves, not the fruit) in the glass.

Now to the links . . .

Tin Whiskers, a brewery in Minnesota, is closing. “A lot of people are getting in that think it’s easy — easy money,” says Tin Whiskers owner Jeff Moriarty. “I feel like a bubble is coming — a reckoning is going to happen.”

The brewery, the last to operate in downtown St. Paul, has been in business eight years. There were plenty of local stories, but little additional insight. However, the discussion at Beer Advocate is pretty interesting.

Just so you know, two Dallas-Fort Worth breweries also closed last month. There was no mention of a reckoning.

ON LANGUAGE
In search of elegant wine. I saved this story because the headline grabbed my attention. Before I got around to reading it I thought a bit about what attributes in beer, or simply what beers, I might describe as elegant. I know I’ve used the word. Not a lot, but apparently without proper thought. Honestly, this story didn’t help a lot. However, perhaps you can take the suggestion about what makes a mathematical proof elegant and make use of it.

Crispy. Jeff Alworth chimes in on the use of the word crispy, a topic I already said what I have to say about in February.

There was a certain amount of conversation when he posted a link on Twitter.

Which was followed a tweet from Matthew Curtis about “beer writers policing language that becomes part of a drinkers vernacular” and more comments.

And eventually this from Alan McLeod:

“While I agree that policing is fundamentally silly there is possibly an underlying question: is there any meaningful standard upon which the self-appointed might do such a thing? For the best part of twenty years doing this, I am left with the impression that too much of what has been written about good beer has been larded with a sameness made up of business promotion, recycling of the works of others, forms of oversimplification** mixed with claims to expertise and a certain code compliance. Is ‘crispy’ an example of that code? Maybe. I don’t have an exact idea what is meant when used. But it’s not unique in that regard. And I’m not sure that is the point. It seems that circles of praise gather whenever someone achieves the great gold ring of getting paid for their written code compliant words, as if that is the main end of beer writing.”

After you consider the intriguing question McLeod raises — What is the main end of beer writing? — there is this.

In “Democracy, authenticity, and the enregisterment of connoisseurship in ‘craft beer talk’” (Language & Communications 75 (2020) author Lex Connelly draws a parallel between oinoglossia (wine talk) and brutoglossia, (craft) beer talk (just focus on the words that make sense to you).

My takeaway, further informed by non-beery books I’ve been reading, is likely different from yours what yours might be. I think there is more to this what’s going on than hipster affectations and peer skeptically over the tops of my my glasses when I come across sentences that contain these words: “the key kind of class distinction in late capitalism.”

So, I suggest that some beer drinkers (writers and citizens themselves) may use language, tasting rituals and what they view as the importance of authenticity to accrue cultural capital. In “Distinction,” French sociologist Pierre Bourdieu posits that cultural capital (as opposed to economic capital) is an accumulation of knowledge and skills that demonstrate social status.

(You know if you know. Guilty here.)

Anchor Brewing savior Fritz Maytag once said, “It’s very hard to get pretentious about beer. You can become knowledgeable and start to talk with a highfalutin’ vocabulary. But you can only go so far with beer, and I’ve always liked that.”

Perhaps, but beer drinkers who adopt specialized language (i.e. crispy boi) that means nothing to my neighbors may be as intent on collecting cultural capital as those who celebrate elegant wine. That’s fine, unless that capital is used as a weapon to exclude those without similar special knowledge from joining the craft beer club.

PUBS
The whole point. “The Ted Lasso pub is just a pub.” Locals in the UK take the pub for granted. Viewed from afar it is idyllic.

Pressing play. And so it begins, “Over the weekend, I travelled on a number of different trains to a couple of different pubs and beer events. It was the first time since the start of the pandemic that everything about the day felt part of a previous lifetime; one that had been merely paused for a couple of years and restarted.”

Double threat. What’s the greater danger? A 26-story going up next door to a 200-year-old pub and leaving it permanently in the shade or Heineken installing its own manager?


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