A few things I learned at GABF

Beer revolution going onThree days at the Great American Beer Festival last week seemed to last three weeks. So much going on. I learned a ton, but mostly stuff that will influence future posts and work that appears in good old-fashioned print.

But then you don’t need me to be telling how wonderful the Pints for Prostates Rare Beer Tasting turned out or how long the lines were in front of New Glarus Brewing. There’s plenty to read on the Internet.

That’s quite different than in 1993, when Daria and I reported on the festival for All About Beer magazine. Our story appeared a couple of months after the event. Beer news traveled at a different pace. A few pieces in regional “brewspapers” (also well after GABF) and an occasional mention in online bulletin boards and Internet mailing lists were pretty much it. Now you can read dozens of blog posts every day &#151 for instance, English writer Melissa Cole waxing romantic about a beer from a brewery in Tampa, Florida, that has been open less than a year. (Cigar City Brewing.)

However there are a few things you might not otherwise read or that I wanted to make sure you notice:

– My breweries won the GABF Fantasy Draught. I spent part of the awards ceremony talking with George Wendt (“Norm Peterson”) about his upcoming book. We went for a little walk to have a few beers. When a winner would be announced to large cheers he asked, “Are people fans of particular breweries?” Looking back over the list of breweries I picked I realized these are all ones I have a certain affection for, contest aside. Thanks again to Jonathan Surratt for the thankless job of running it.

I bumped into — the festival has gotten so big you can go three days not seeing people you are looking for — Pizza Port Carlsbad brewmaster Jeff Bagby right after the awards ceremony. When I saw him Thursday I kidded him four medals is all I expected from a second round draft choice. He was still quite a distance away on Saturday when he yelled at me, “Is this enough for you, Stan?” Seven medals, four golds. Being good at drafting (or draughting) does not compare to being good at brewing.

Will Kemper. Two golds, two silvers and Small Brewpub of the Year. Only open a little over a year but not exactly a secret (his brewery went in our draught). If you’ve never heard the name click on the link. An early superstar? Star? Maybe not a conversation to start. The music analogy for me would be Lloyd Maines or Mark Knopfler.

– I would have bet against it, but Firestone Walker Union Jack IPA did manage to go back to back, beating out 133 other entries. As impressive, Russian River Brewing’s Blind Pig IPA medaled for the third straight year. So in each of the last two years Union Jack and Blind Pig have claimed two of the possible three medals. Meaning 132 breweries have one medal to compete for. Tough odds.

– You always hear conjecture that some breweries make batches just for judging. I find that hard to believe.

But there’s no doubt that the beer Boulevard Brewing in Kansas City won gold with this year is just like the ones consumers find on the shelf (in season). Brewmaster Steven Pauwels said that when the brewery decided to enter Zon in the Belgian white/wit category they discovered that they didn’t have any of the seasonal beer in stock. So they went out a store and bought the beer they’d enter, and win with. That’s impressive.

 

My ‘team’ and I are ready for GABF

This question isn’t too tough, since I’ve already mentioned the Great American Beer Festival Beer Mapping Fantasy Draught, but what do these breweries have in common?

The Lost Abbey
Pizza Port Carlsbad
Snake River Brewing
Flying Dog Ales
Southampton Publick House
Saint Arnold Brewing
Marble Brewery
Il Vicino Brewing

Yep, they are members of my “team.” They also happen to be breweries I’ve visited. A little tricky because I visited Frederick Brewing before before Flying Dog bought the facility. So I’ve been to what was the Flying Dog brewery in Denver and what would be the Flying Dog brewery in Frederick. Got that?

Just arrived in Denver and will now turn my attention to work and beer. The order may change throughout the day.

 

Come on in, the fringe is fine

Beer revolution going onI’m all for perspective, although I expect it to go out the window this weekend in Denver.

The Simpsons and Norm Peterson? How much more pop culture can the Great American Beer Festival handle? To keep us on an even keel All About Beer magazine had historian Maureen Ogle pen a piece titled “What Revolution?” for its 30th anniversary issue, “Beer: 30.”

Early on she writes:

“Here’s where I’m supposed to wax rhapsodic about the craft beer revolutionaries who taught Americans to drink real beer, and who changed the brewing industry forever.

“I’ll pass. I’m a historian, and it’s my job to take the Long View of the Big Picture. And from my vantage point, what was fringe in 1979 is fringe in 2009, and the ‘revolution’ was not.”

Certainly not as she, and many other people, would define it. Perspective indeed, although I’m sure if she were going to be in Denver we could line up plenty of people to debate that thought. I’d like to take the other side on two different statements.

Second, she writes, “Morever, entrepreneurs are ambitious. They will always strive for more. And so small brewers expand their brewhouses in order to satisfy their ambitions and to ensure the financial future of the children and grandchildren who are born in between mashing and lagering.”

What’s changed since 1979 is that a person who wants to run a small brewing business, and keep it small, can. Yep, it’s that simple.

Now onto the first. “For every five beer geeks who applaud the arrival of say, Groovy California Brewing Co.’s ‘local’ beer on the east coast, at least one will criticize Groovy’s ambitions and find something else to drink. Something more pure, more real, more local. Something less, well, ‘successful.'”

How about choosing local because tastes better? Again it can be that simple.

Just wanted to be on the record with those two thoughts. Of course I’m the guy who when AABM asked for predictions for the next 30 years (those appear at the back of the magazine) responded with more of a wish than a prediction:

“We will continue to most enjoy beers made by breweries where, if the guy in charge really needed to put on his boots, walk into the brewhouse and make a batch of beer, he could.”

 

Union Jack IPA back to back?

One more quick look into the Great American Beer Festival judging records. I could waste a lot of time in the archives. For instance, I’ve pointed out before that Blind Pig Double IPA and Goose Island Bourbon Barrel Stout both made their first GABF appearance in 1995, laying the groundwork for what are now stand-alone categories.

But at the time it seemed at least as bold that Kinney Baughman from Cottonwood Grill & Brewery in North Carolina brought his “Belgian Amber Framboise.” The beer took a bronze in Belgian-style Specialty behind Celis White and Thomas Kemper White. Oh, the memories.

Back to what I was looking for. When I posted the 1987 results Rick Sellers commented on Twitter that Rubicon in Sacramento won the first gold in India Pale Ale, which did not become a category until 1989. When I looked I noticed Rubicon won the first two. So I wanted to see if that ever happened again.

IPA has become the most hotly contested category, with more than 100 entries every year — even with the addition of Double (or Imperial) IPA and American Strong Pale Ale (Avery IPA won that one year, just so you know what ends up competing) categories.

These days it’s rare for breweries from the same state to win back-to-back, but in the 1990s Hubcap Brewery & Kitchen in Dallas, Texas, won three years out of four. Hubcap was a spinoff of a brewpub in Vail, Colorado (as you might tell from the beers names). Both are long gone. My notes indicate we had the IPA in 1993 and liked it, although I honestly don’t remember it at all. Anyway, I’m a bit confused because in 1992 brewpubs weren’t yet legal in Texas. This is a bit of beer history that needs to be tracked down before it’s completely lost.

Meanwhile, here’s the list of IPA gold medalists:

1989 – Rubicon IPA, Rubicon Brewing, California
1990 – Rubicon IPA, Rubicon Brewing, California
1991 – Banty Rooster, Seabright Brewing, California
1992 – Solstice Ale, Hubcap Brewery & Kitchen, Texas
1993 – Renegade Red, Estes Park Brewing, Colorado
1994 – Vail Pale Ale, Hubcap, Texas
1995 – Dig D’s Vail Pale Ale, Hubcap, Texas
1996 – Ponderosa IPA, Prescott Brewing, Arizona
1997 – India Pale Ale, Marin Brewing, California
1998 – Pike IPA, 5280 Roadhouse & Brewery, Colorado
1999 – Racer 5 IPA, Bear Republic, California
2000 – Telemark IPA, Backcountry Brewery & Restaurant, Colorado
2001 – Tumblewood IPA, Sleeping Giant, Montana
2002 – Drake’s IPA, Drake’s Brewing, California
2003 – Hoptown IPA, Hoptown Brewing, California
2004 – India Pelican Ale, Pelican Pub & Brewery, Oregon
2005 – Castle Rock IPA, Santa Barbara Brewing, California
2006 – Hophead Imperial IPA, Bend Brewing, Oregon
2007 – IPA, Odell Brewing, Colorado
2008 – Union Jack IPA, Firestone Walker, California

 

When the GABF had 12 categories

Not surprisingly, chatter about the Great American Beer Festival runs rampant in the world I occupy, and now particularly on Twitter. Just to be clear, I know full well Denver will not be the center of the beer universe this weekend.

There isn’t one.

But GABF has my full my attention, and in doing a little research for stories I’ll be working on this weekend in Denver I was looking at the 1987 judging results. Although the festival began in 1982 the blind judging competititon did not commence until 1987, in all of 12 categories (compared to 78 today).

Here’s who won gold:

Ales – Big Foot Barley Wine Style Ale, Sierra Nevada Brewing
Alts – Chinook Alaskan Amber, Alaskan Brewing
American Cream Ales – Little Kings Cream Ale, Hudepohl-Schoenling Brewing
American Lagers – Koch’s Golden Anniversary Ale, Genesee Brewing
American Light Lagers – Leinenkugel, Jacob Leinenkugel Brewing
Bock/Doppelbocks – Chesbay Doppel Bock, Chesapeake Bay Brewing
Continental Amber Lagers – Golden Bear Dark Malt, Thousand Oaks Brewing
Continental Pilsner – Samuel Adams Boston Lager, Boston Beer Co.
Porters – Great Northern Porter, Summit Brewing
Stouts – Boulder Stout, Rockies Brewing
Vienna Style Lagers – Vienna Style Lager, Vienna Brewing Co.
Wheat beers – Edelweiss, Val Blatz Brewery

A few of those beers will be contenders to win this week.