TWTBWTW: Money, money, money

Pliny the Younger Economic Impact

Greetings from New Orleans, where I am much more focused on music (beginning today, beginning Thursday) than beer right now. So right to That Was The Beer Week That Was.

The birth of line culture
The link is to a transcript of the Taplines podcast, where links to the podcast are included. It is an interview with Russian River Brewing co-owner Natalie Cilruzo, talking about the phenomenon of Pliny the Younger. The graphic at the top illustrates the econonmic impact of the release of the Younger. It is a big deal, a success story about hospitality as much as beer.

“Our Windsor Brewery is what we call our new brewery. It’s our dream brewery. It’s really beautiful and we designed it from the ground up. We designed it for this release with the parking lot being oversized for the rest of the year. It’s virtually empty for the rest of the year. Not virtually, but rarely, do we half-fill the parking lot for the rest of the year. It’s huge. The whole front of the brewery has this giant sidewalk that snakes around the front of the brewery, which is designed for the Pliny the Younger line, to go around the whole front of the brewery. Unfortunately, sometimes the line goes all the way out to the sidewalk and then down the street which it did on Saturday. We have bathrooms. They’re on electronic locks and the bathrooms are designed to have an outdoor access that we keep open 24/7 during the Pliny the Younger release. There’s clean bathrooms that get cleaned every day that people can use if they’re here overnight or in the middle of the night or two o’clock in the morning, or whatever. This whole brewery on the hospitality side was designed for these two weeks and I can’t tell you how excited I was the first year that we released Pliny the Younger at both locations, so now we have it at our Santa Rosa location as well as the Windsor location.”

Questions provoked by High End layoffs
“If Stella can be made in breweries that make Budweiser, what’s to come for the much smaller brewers? It would seem inconceivable, but in theory Devils Backbone Vienna Lager could be brewed in other breweries, including those in Belgium.”

Read This Before Shopping for Your Bud Light Replacement Beer
Pair this one with the next. “Despite the passionate claims about its unique identity and its conservative political profile, the only value driving Bud Light, or any other consumer good available on a global scale, is the remorseless logic of shareholder value. That makes it hard to coherently express your politics with your beer preferences.”

If Companies Have Convictions, They Need to Stand By Them
Jeff Alworth writes, “Some years ago, I argued that it’s bad business for companies to take political positions. That was correct then, but it’s not anymore. The very act of reaching out to your own customers has become a political act. Now companies are going to have to define their values and own them, and when they find themselves under attack, be prepared to defend them. Depressingly, we customers are going to have to start paying attention to where our dollars are going in this whole long war.”

And once again I will quote something Pete Brown wrote in “Craft: An Argument.” That is, “(Craft) isn’t just about the things we make; it’s about the kind of people we are. And for this, we get to an unspoken assumption we may be reluctant to admit even to ourselves; we believe that makers and buyers of craft products are morally superior to other people.”

Small breweries that some call “craft” have benefited by what in unspoken; that they are the good guys. Recently, they’ve been asked to prove it. Many have. The rest? We’ll see what happens.

How Consolidation In the Middle Tier Is Impacting The Future of Craft Beer Brands
“As if growing craft beer producers didn’t have enough to contend with these days in the form of rising costs of goods, labor shortages, inflation, and the squeeze from alternative beverage choices in the marketplace, woes like wholesaler consolidation, unfair trade practices, and antiquated beverage alcohol regulations are making the middle tier the next big battleground for craft beer brands.”

On the importance of cask beer
Matthew Curtis has a question: “Instead of trying to modernize cask and turn it into something it very much isn’t, wouldn’t it be better to lean, hard, into its tradition?”

Thai beer fan fined for posting review
“Thailand is a country where it’s illegal for people to drink a beer and say it’s delicious.”

TWTBWTW: A beer business story & a culture war

Miller High Life cans seized by French officials, defending the Champagne domain

Even the Wall Street Journal ran a story about and photo (credit to Associated Press) of cans of Miller High Life – “the Champagne of Beers” – being destroyed because only sparkling wines made in France’s Champagne region can use the name on their labels, according to French laws.

It would seem that beer still holds some cultural cachet.

You might also enjoy (or read without enjoyment in the case of the first one):

“The controversy surrounding Bud Light is a business story, but one caught in the midst of a culture war.”
This is one of those just go read the dang thing stories. Because . . . “When trans professionals leave careers they enjoy, it not only sets them back professionally but negatively affects the rest of the workforce. This is because people’s biases tend to soften upon developing a close relationship with a member of a marginalized group. It’s why the ‘coming out’ movement is widely credited with advancing marriage equality and other gay rights. Over the course of just two decades, millions of people in the U.S. realized that they had LGBTQ+ siblings, parents, friends, cousins, teachers, and roommates.”

Do Wild Ales Have a Marketing Problem?
Within the story, Stephanie Grant writes that every person she talked to while reporting it said these beers aren’t meant to be popular. “It’s a long game, for sure,” Lisa Boldt at Primitive Ales in Colorado told her. “It’s not a get-rich-quick scheme by any means.”

Speaking of mixed cultures . . .
Launched in 2014 by Yumi Shimada, Maíra Kimura, and Fernanda Ueno, craft brewery Japas Cervejaria combines the cofounders’ Brazilian and Japanese heritages. They are brewing and selling their beers in both Brazil and the United States.

Innovation I
Freeze-dried beer is not new, but Klosterbrauerei Neuzelle managing director Stefan Fritsche says this German version will revolutionize the brewing industry.

Innovation IIBack in 2009, when the beer blogosphere was broader, this statement from Ron Pattinson led to several other posts about what qualifies as innovation: “I’ll be honest with you. I don’t want innovative beer. . . . Worshipping at the alter of brewers’ egos. It’s not for me. I want something to drink, something that lifts my spirits and makes my heart soar. And, in sufficient quantities, will get me pissed. It’s really not complicated.”

I thought about this last week when I posted what Bart Watson said about craft reinventing itself. As Watson made clear, it is brewers intent on distributing their beer that face the biggest challenges. It becomes a business story, which Jeff Alworth addresses, headlining the post “Structural innovations.”

I chose the pieces of the some-assembly-required post Friday because I was thinking about the power of making connections. It is the super strength of breweries that make their businesseses work without the advantages that come with economies of scale. May not scream innovative, but it works.

Is the (beer) glass half empty or half full?

Half empty or half full?

Chances are that I could plug these elements into an AI tool and generate a blog post. Instead, I am going to leave it to you — not to hand it off to AI, but to assemble it yourself.

1) “To grow again craft is going to have to find incremental opportunities, that’s in terms of both the beers that people make and the occasions customers are looking for in general,” Brewers Association chief economist Bart Watson said during an online press conference following the release of the BA’s annual Craft Beer Production Report.

2) Answering a question about what’s ahead, he said, “Craft is going to have to, as it always has done, reinvent itself for the next generation of drinkers . . . (brewers) will have to find ways to welcome new people into the category.”

3) In 1950, the 10 largest brewing companies in the United State produced 38% of beer. In 1960, that had grown to 52%. In 1970, they made 69%, and in 1980 93%.

4) Twenty years ago the 50 top domestics craft brewing companies produced 78% of (BA-defined) craft beer. Ten years ago, the top 50 brewed 70%. In 2021 (the 2022 figures are still being calculated) that was down to 50%.

5) Stubborn German Brewing in Waterloo, Illinois, population 11,062, is one of those 9,000-plus not-top-50 breweries. They brewed 430 barrels in 2021. They are one of two breweries located on the town square, directly across from the Monroe County Courthouse. It is about a 25-mile drive to Anheuser-Busch’s flagship brewery in St. Louis. Here is a Facebook post from earlier in the week (click to expand).

TWTBWTW: The ugly, the bad & the good

Thank you, craft beer breweries, for making my drinking problem seem like a neat hobby

Ugly is ugly, but somehow we look past that. I thought about this last week reading a profile of Bill Hader written as part of the runup to the last season of “Barry.” About how there can be things that constantly get us in trouble, that we don’t like, and what we can change.

And still lingering in my head from the previous week is something author Stephen Deusner had to say about Jason Isbell:

“I think he really picked up a lot from them about how to write about the South, and how to position yourself as somebody who loves the place, and yet finds so much about it that’s ugly. He even told me it was Patterson [Hood] and [Mike] Cooley that showed him it was possible to be bitter about where you came from and still love the place.”

Each week there are stories that reinforce the myth that there is a halo 'round the craft beer moon. And there are stories that scream bullshit. There are more of the former, maybe because they are more fun to write.

In my youth I worked at a newspaper where the publisher said, honest to goodness, that if we wrote something bad about a person we should find an occasion to write something good about them within the next year. Some sort of balanced ledger. It’s not my goal to find less pleasant stories to balance the feel good ones, but some weeks that is pretty easy.

One of the reasons there is a halo around what some call craft beer is the promise of change. That requires paying attention to things that should change. So paying attention . . .

Unionizing a Craft Brewery Shouldn’t Be This Hard. And why would workers even want a union? Glad you asked. After this story, go on to the next one.

One hundred percent burnout. “Based on results we’ve seen within other industries, the data indicates serious issues specific to craft beer at play.”

Burnout and Allyship in Beer DEI. “DEI has gone from being the hot new poster-topic to the we-have-to-tick-this-box-or-we’re-in-trouble essential to fall off a cliff into the oh-god-can-we-shut-up-about-this-now burnout territory over the last decade, and right now we are at the bottom of that cliff, with those of us who still give a shit screaming at the top of our lungs but no one is listening anymore.”

On the flipside. Stories that former publisher would want to read.

One year later with Funkytown Brewery. This Black-owned brewery now has more than 500 accounts in the Chicago and Milwaukee metropolitan areas. Many of those places are near communities that are “underserved by the craft beer industry.”

Be as into beer as you need to be. “Talking about beer beats talking about the weather, or football, or wallowing in the grim state of politics.” To which I would add, at least it should.

Four days, two baseball games, five sandwiches, 10 beer bars. “May all your days be equally full of good gustation and convivial company as mine turned out to be.”