The obscure versus the classics (beer or wine)

MONDAY BEER LINKS, MUSING 02.03.18

I’m not sure what I had in the way for expectations related to Craft Writing: Beer, The Digital, and Craft Culture, but they were in any event exceeded this weekend in Kentucky. More about that Wednesday. Spoiler alert: Some really excellent beer being brewed in Kentucky. So on to a few links …

Bottle fight: Novelty v classic wines. Full confession, I crossed out the word “wines” to make it clear you could insert “beers.” From Jancis Robinson, “The desire for ever more obscure ferments seems to have also taken hold across the Atlantic. Experienced restaurant-going friends just back from southern California reported recently that they didn’t recognise anything on the wine lists of the smartest establishments.” Or as Teri Fahrendorf said Saturday at Craft Writing (more from there in a couple of days), the highest rated beers are the ones with the most alcohol, the most hops and “the ones nobody can get.” Reminding me of a T-shirt spotted at a beer festival a while back, “I listen to bands that don’t even exist yet.” [via Financial Times]

CAMRA and the future. Trust me, you want to read any blog post that begins, “Tim Webb has set the cat among the pigeons.” [via Tandleman’s Beer Blog]

Craft beer business bubbles up in South Florida. Wherever Evan Benn goes, it seems, craft breweries follow. [via Miami Herald]

Shaun Hill. Your weekly Shaun Hill and Hill Farmstead Brewery fix. [Via Classic Kicks]

We drank beer concentrate so you don’t have to. Hey, I’d take this review from Gizmodo over the average Consumer Reports analysis anytime. [via Gizmodo]

What if Michael Jackson blogged?

What if he tweeted? We’re not really going to spend much time talking about that Saturday in Lexington, but if everybody else has put as much thought into the process as Roger Baylor it’s going to be very interesting.

First, here is the schedule for “Craft Writing: Beer, The Digital, and Craft Culture.”

10:30-12:00
“What if Michael Jackson Blogged? Communicating About Beer in the 21st century”

Introduction: Kevin Patterson, The Beer Trappe
Stan Hieronymus: “So You Want to be a Beer Writer”
Julie Johnson: “When Your Beer News Arrived by Mail”
Teri Fahrendorf: “Creating a Community Out of Thin Air”

1:30-3:00
“Beer Knowledge”

Introduction: Daniel Harrison, Country Boy Brewing
Roger Baylor: “Everything You Know is Wrong”
Jeremy Cowan: “Founder and Owner of Shmaltz Brewing Company”
Mitch Steele: “The Top Ten Surprises From Researching Historical IPA Brewing”

3:30-5:00
Keynote

Introduction: Gary Spedding, Brewing and Distilling Analytical Services
Garrett Oliver: “Beer is People”

I will focus on writing about beer as an act of journalism. And as journalist one way to signal I am an unbiased observer is to refer to participants by their last name. However, in the runup to this event Baylor posted a thought provoking piece titled “Conformity, contrarianism and a craft writing symposium.” It was way too Roger to write anything other than go read what Roger has to say.

Craft beer is a state of mind … but whose? I have a slew of opinions about this, as rooted in a system of ideas, and I’m capable of sharing them in writing. What always can be counted upon to annoy me to the point of active resentment is when justifiable enthusiasm becomes irrational exuberance, then is enumerated and rendered doctrinal, after which perfectly sensible persons began advising against challenging the new prevailing orthodoxy – for instance, the familiar admonition against brewers even speaking aloud about a potential craft beer bubble, lest doing so might instigate a loss of faith, and the popping of a bubble that the very same commentators deny exists in the first place.

And then he moved on to Socrates.

Monday beer links, musing 02.10.14

A little curmudgeonly this week. Blame the weather.

Hype, Backlash, and Hopslam. “Hopslam (nor any other rare beer de jeur) is not the sickness in our beer scene, it is merely a symptom. We have become a beer scene that talks openly about a return to craft beer enjoyment …. We talk a good game, but our actions (and our tweets) say differently.” [Via Charlotte Beer]

Lagunitas addition adds depth to Chicago beer scene. “In some ways, sizes of craft breweries are irrelevant. The guys I talked to, whether they made 5,000 barrels a year or 100,000 barrels a year, they are looking for other breweries who will support the craft beer movement.”

In all fairness, there’s more to that thought. But, golly, sure this “get along and help each other” spirit has been a factor in more small breweries making better beer. But what brewers are really looking for is people who will buy their beer. Nothing wrong with that, but a fact. Otherwise they’d stick to being homebrewers. “Here, taste my beer. Great, right? Glad you enjoyed it.”

And later in the story Lagunitas owner Tony Magee says, “Some people say we’re in the beer business. I’d say we’re in the tribe building business. Tribes are built on shared stories.” Have you heard the one about how they’re not in the beer business?

[Via Chicago Sun-Times]

The unexpected way beer is helping this California town get through a historic drought. “The recent installation of an innovative water treatment system at the Bear Republic Brewing Company, along with the ongoing construction of two local wells in part paid for by the company, could go a long way toward keeping Cloverdale afloat before it’s estimated to run out of water in a few months.” [via takepart]

Has craft beer finally gone too far? Take our ‘quiz’. Welcome to the Rabbit Hole. [Via Atlantic Cities, where the tagline is “Place Matters” – bless ’em]

Michigan-made malt worth the hefty price tag to local breweries and distilleries. But it’s not easy selling something for 80 cents a pound when out-of-state varieties go for 35 cents. [via MLive]

The Session #84: Drink with your eyes

The plan for the 84th gathering of The Session goes like this: you cannot review the beer.

Huh? Thank goodness, host Oliver Gray provides further guidance, “Write a short story that incorporates the name, an essay based on an experience you had drinking it, or a silly set of pastoral sonnets expressing your undying love for a certain beer. If you don’t feel like writing, that’s fine; plug into your inner Springsteen and play us a song, or throw your budding Van Gogh against the canvas and paint us a bubbly masterpiece.”

Those things will not be happening here. Creating a bit of music might or might not be in my comfort zone, but remember Chekov in Wrath of Kahn? Listening to that, not in your comfort zone.

Let’s try this instead. A beer, a photo that “reviews” it, a word or three to provide a bit of context. It would be better, let’s be honest, if I drank the beer and it inspired me to go shoot a particular photo. Sorry, pulling photos from the archives will have to do. And, again to be honest, at some level we expect beer reviews to give a reader a clue about what flavors, and perhaps other experiences, to expect. Not necessarily happening here. I won’t pretend that what follows means anything to anybody but me.

ALLAGASH CONFLUENCE
Allagash ConfluenceConnections
 
 
CROOKED STEVE HOP SAVANT
Crooked Stave Hop SavantMerry Christmas y’all
 
 
URBAN CHESTNUT STAMMTISCH
Urban Chestnut StammtischDefined
 
 
BOULEVARD TANK 7
Boulevard Tank 7Snap beans
 
 
PERENNIAL ARTISAN ALES ABRAXAS
Perennial Ales AbraxasLiterally

Hops 2014

IndeedAmerica’s smaller brewers — smaller meaning Boston Beer Company on down — produced 7.4 percent of the beer sold domestically in 2013 and used 52 percent of the hops grown domestically.

Takeaway I: If the world’s largest brewers start using hops like America’s smaller ones there will not be enough to go around. Takeaway II: If America’s smaller brewers, joined by smaller brewers elsewhere, keep using hops like they do now we’re going to need a bigger boat.

Karl Ockert, technical director at the Masters Brewers Association of the America, provided the latest numbers in the February MBAA Communicator, reporting on last month’s American Hop Convention.

Chris Swersey presented findings from the Brewers Association annual hop survey indicating that even though average hopping rates remain steady at 1.3 lbs per bbl in craft brews, the continued double-digit growth in that segment is fueling a sustained surge in the consumption of American grown hops, especially aroma varieties. The survey showed that overall consumption rose from 14.4 mm pounds in 2012 to 16.4 mm pounds in 2013 and estimates a consumption of 18.6 mm pounds in the coming year. The 2013 figures represent about 52% of the total amount of hops grown last year in the United States (31.4 mm pounds) in the production of about 7.4% of the beer sold domestically. Brewers of all sizes have learned that the increase in hop use requires advanced contracting and the BA survey indicated that over 90% of responding brewers now contract ahead for their hops. The most popular varieties used in 2013 were (in order) Cascade, Centennial, Chinook, CTZ, Simcoe, Amarillo, Crystal, Willamette, CZ-Saaz, and US Golding.

This focus on hops treasured first for their aroma attributes rather than their bittering efficiency creates challenges. Farmers can lengthen the harvest season — and therefore avoid adding expensive picking equipment and building equally expensive new kilns — by cultivating a range of varieties that mature at different dates. However, many of the varieties now in vogue fall in the same narrower window. In addition, an increasing number of brewers would like those hops dried less efficiently, at cooler temperatures and not piled as high in kilns, because that preserves more of the hop oils responsible for aroma (and by extension flavor).

Some farmers have already invested in new equipment and kilns and more are considering it. The contrast with years past is not lost on Ockert, who was first brewer at BridgePort Brewing in Portland. It was less than a half dozen years ago farmers in the Yakima Valley left hops on the bine because it would have cost them more to pick and dry them than they would have been able to sell them for.

A report in January indicated U.S. growers have picking and drying capacity to handle between 10 and 15 percent growth. An increase in consumption from 16.4 million pounds to 18.6 million pounds amounts to about 13 percent growth. Not a lot of wiggle room there.

Oh, and one more thing, hop processors are starting to bump up against capacity for turning hop cones into pellets in a timely way.