The Beer Hunter & Fritz show

You’ve read the news. I do not think that Sapporo understood this about Anchor Brewing:

Fritz Maytag’s final words in video are, “I think when our brewers put the malt (from the barley field they just visited) into the mash tun they remember, ‘That’s the stuff, there it is.’ It gives our company something that’s hard to duplicate.”

Today, Jeff Alworth wrote:

“But [the beer industry] can’t continue as the same industry represented by Fritz Maytag’s wonderful, traditional, innovative, local, and independent little brewery if that brewery itself couldn’t survive.”

I disagree, because . . . limiting myself to five reasons, with apologies to thousands of other contenders . . . Scratch Brewing, Wheatland Spring Farm + Brewery, Bow & Arrow Brewing, Primitive Beer, and Spaceway Brewing.

Wonderful. Check. Innovative. Check. Local. Check. Independent. Check. Traditional? Not if it gets in the way of making something delicious.

TWTBWTW: Quick, name 3 flagship beers that are thriving

Where have all the beer brands gone?

The lead gets right to the point: “The ground is shaking under some of the most important beer brands for a trio of California’s largest brewers.” The breweries are Sierra Nevada Brewing Company, Firestone Walker Brewing Company, and 21st Amendment Brewery.

Why should this matter to us beer drinkers?

You will have to answer that yourselves. I am writing zero words rather than 1,000. Instead I will point you at Flagship February. (At least, I hope the link takes you to one of the pages in the Flagship February website and you can make your way around. Simply typing in flashipfebruary.com will not get you there. Nothing seems to be going right for flagship beers right now.)

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Could an ancient, climate-friendly crop be the future of beer?
Fonio sounds too good to be true.

“Growing a pound of malted barley has a 327-gallon water footprint while a pound of wheat requires 219 gallons of water, and a pound of white rice requires 400 gallons of water.

“Meanwhile, fonio can thrive with just 600mm annual rainfall, and none of the irrigation, pesticides or fertilizers needed by other grains. Brewing with fonio follows the same process as making beer from other grains.”

In fact, this could be a problem: “Cleaning the sand out of fonio is a time-consuming, manual process that requires beating the grassy fonio paddy to release the grain, and using a lot of water to rinse out dirt and sand.”

Something to watch.

How Far Will Salmon Swim for a Craft Beer?
It appears that salmon prefer yeast trub to extract of shrimp, tincture of watercress, skin of steelhead, or bile of minnow. The beer connection aside, really fascinating stuff going on at the Oregon Hatchery Research Center.

The Inextinguishable Appeal of Draught Bass
Lyme Regis. 1994. As soon as we were checked in at the Angel, publican Ed Bignal took time to point out the sights, such as the Leper’s Well a block away. Lepers once lived along the Angel’s street, Mill Green, a narrow alley on which monks had led horsedrawn carts centuries ago.

First off, we went to the Volunteer because Bignal assured us the Bass would be in as good of condition as we could find anywhere. He did not lie. “Bass is a beer that lodges in the mind” was flat out true that day.

(Early in the evening, we saw him step from behind the bar and go outside to check a tire because one of his female customers was worried it was going flat. After dinner, the place was bustling. Patrons constantly paraded between the skittles alley out back and the back door to the pub, where they refilled their pints. When the skittles shut down, the singing began.)

Craft brewery boom in Switzerland draws to a close
“Boom draws to a close” means a period of hyper-growth has ended, not that the Swiss suddenly abandoned fancy beer. It is not surprising that 90 percent of all breweries are nano-breweries. They are “often run as a hobby.”

Pairing seasonal beer and seasonal produce
Not new, but it hit my feeder aggregator this week. Some specific suggestions: LAGER: Grilled corn-on-the-cob with chili and lime; WHEAT BEER: Watermelon and tomato salad; IPA: Pico de gallo and chips.

Gummies Beer
Tantalizes the taste buds. 19.2 ounces at a time.

House beers
“This latest iteration of house beers has proven successful because they’re not a novelty.”

Maggie Harrison’s War on Wine
Now, this is a tasting note. Something you’d expect to hear in “Drops of God.”

“First, it made me see colors: the inkiest indigos and the bluest blacks, streaked with fissures of silver. Then I pictured something lurching out of a cave on a moonless night during a thunderstorm, which made the hairs on the back of my neck stand up.”

Do the beers you drink make you see colors? Asking for a friend.

Monday beer links to accompany your fireworks

Thank you, craft breweries, for making my drinking problem seem like a neat hobby.

It’s Fourth of July Eve and we are spending the week in a dry town. Let’s get right to it.

The Problematic Culture of Overdrinking When You Work in Alcohol
“De-stigmatizing sobriety and addressing alcohol use disorder head on can be challenging, but will help our friends and colleagues before they reach their own depths. Resilience requires vulnerability, but it also gives us the chance to lift each other up.”

The Timeless Appeal of Drinking in Train Station Bars
“It might be a slightly smaller story in North America, but in the railway-prioritizing Old World, train station bars are much more common, in both upscale and dive incarnations.” A much smaller story in North America, I would say, sadly.

The 23 Best Cheap Domestic Beers, According to Brewers
In fact, it’s not just brewers, and if domestic=mainstream industrial then I made a mistake by choosing Lagerado from Odell. A lot of love here Coors Banquet (keep scrolling to get to the Rockies). I almost feel like a traitor to Colorado history, but I am sticking with Lagerado.

University of Wisconsin wouldn’t let J.J. Watt buy every graduate a beer when he was commencement speaker
“I was talking to the university and said this is what I want to do. Spotted Cow is the best beer in Wisconsin. It’s incredible. I want to put a Spotted Cow under every single seat in the stadium. I’ll pay for it all … but at the end of the commencement speech I’m gonna say ‘now to congratulate you, just reach under your seat and have a cold one on me.’”

Portland’s Best Breweries
“The difference between Portland’s 7th-best brewery and 17th-best is paper-thin. Indeed, if I wanted to establish Portland’s bona fides in terms of overall quality, I’d compare its second-ten best breweries up against any in the US. Portland is such a good beer town because the beer is so good across the city.”

The Return to the Classics: Talking Beer with Good Word and Schilling
Q: “Do you think there’s a tension between ‘the classics’ in terms of beer styles and experimentation and boundary pushing?”

A: “Yes and no. We have a deep respect and affinity for certain styles of lagerbier that we believe require no “boundary pushing.” A great Munich-style Helles or Dunkel, for example, should be beautiful symmetries of hops, malts, yeast and water. Anything else detracts from these styles, in our view.

“However, many modern German brewers aren’t opposed to playing around with dry hop schedules on a pilsner, for example. As we know, climate change in Europe (and elsewhere) is forcing a robust discussion on hop utilization. So there is progressivity and experimentation–’boundary pushing’–but we choose to do so as respectfully as possible and with a great deal of intentional, intra-team discussion. That said, you won’t see an adjunct-ed lager from Schilling. There’s a line we won’t cross.”

Homebrewing
BRÜLOSOPHY Homebrew Survey
Why homebrewing matters
The survey does not pretend to represent all homebrewers, but it makes you wonder how the hobby might find a wider audience. And about the crossroads Drew Beechum is referring to in the second link.

“Homebrewing is at a crossroads right now. Involvement is declining, homebrew shops and clubs see less interest. Every neighborhood has a brewery or two. Why bother spending 4-8 precious weekend hours making beer that I can buy down the street in a minute?

“I cannot implore you enough – get out there, show people the creativity and positivity brewing encourages (even if you’re grumpy like me) and for the love of all things beery – MAKE BEER, HAVE FUN, AND ENJOY THE PEOPLE!”

The challenge of recreating the past – in his case steam beer

As I mentioned Monday, Andreas Krennmair has posted a recipe for a turn-of-the-century steam beer, warning readers, “This recipe does not conform to the BJCP Style Guidelines for the California Common beer style, so don’t use this to brew beer and get bad marks for it at home-brewing competitions.”

How similar would it have tasted to a steam beer in the 1890s or one shortly after the beginning of the 20th century?

Man enjoying a steam beer, circa 1896First off, we don’t have much in the way of tasting notes. There was his from July of 1896, by a journalist assigned to write about being “A Prince for a Day in San Francisco on Two Bits” in The San Francisco Call. He put a glass of steam beer, which along with a choice of dishes and bread cost a nickel, at the center of his first meal.

“Upon the surface of amber-colored beer floated foam as evanescent and light as thistle down,” he wrote, without naming the brewery where it was made. “The receptacle holding the beer was as deep and as musical, as it was clinked against another, as a bell of Shandon ‘That sound so grand on the River Lee.’ Clearly through its translucent sides could be observed sparkling effervescence, the riotous ascent of sparkling globules which conferred, as a reward for patronage of a plebian beverage, a delightful tang, in which was all the lusty flavor of sun-kissed fields of bearded barley, waving and rustling in the wind.”

Second, every ingredient is a wild card, but yeast is the wildest of all. Presumably, yeast used to brew steam beer evolved from a lager strain. However, in 1911, while conducting tests as part of another project at the University of California, T. Brailsford Robinson discovered just how different steam beer yeast acquired from California Brewing in San Francisco was from lager strains.

“The yeast of the steam beer has accommodated itself to these conditions (warmer fermentation and the clarifier) to such an extent that it can no longer be employed for the preparation of lager beer, while lager-beer yeast may without difficulty be used for the manufacture of steam beer,” he wrote. “The cells of the typical steam-beer yeast are somewhat smaller than those of lager-beer yeast.”

Because things happen, like Prohibition, the strains that brewers used then were not passed down.

Fun aside

Over the years, there have been several suggestions about why steam beer was called by that name:

– What looked, and sounded, like steam was generated by the pressure generated in the kegs.

– Steam hung above rooftop vessels that initially cooled the beer.

– “Doctor Steam” (whose first name has been given variously as Frank, Heintz, or Charles) invented the process.

– German brewers would have been familiar with Dampfbier (“steam beer” in German), itself a hybrid.

– The first brewer to make it, according to his son, named it “mission steam beer, after the (California) missions.” (f

TWTBWTW: What comes before huge?

Barley growing at Wheatland Farm + Brewery

I can’t count the number of times I’ve seen a brewery profile that includes the brewer/founder being interviewed say something along the lines of, “We don’t want to be huge.”

I thought of this last week when I read Jeff Alworth’s post about Skagit Valley Malt suddenly closing, because I had learned a lot more about the business of running a craft malting company after meeting Jeff Bloem during the Wheatland Spring Farm + Brewery Land Beer Fest a couple of weeks ago.

He started Murphy & Rude Malting Co. in his basement. He’s expanded, but has been cautious.

Between the time I read the question in Alworth’s headline (“Is craft malt in trouble?”) and a post at Good Beer Hunting Sightlines highlighting the risk of craft malt expansion I dropped him an email. I probably would not have if I had known Kate Bernot would contact him for the Sightlines story. (Because, honestly, I am inherently lazy.)

I asked him if he could describe a scenario where craft malting is viable. Turns out, he is living one. He wrote back:

“Our recent modest capacity expansion served as a much needed right-sizing that improved cash flow, jettisoned us into healthy profitability, and fixed a plethora of issues we were struggling with as an under-built craft malt house — bumpy cash-flow due to delayed invoicing brought about by constant out-of-stocks and backorders.

“This right-sizing was Phase 1 of a five-year, three-phase growth plan and Phase 2 sees us making additional modest investments in additional production equipment, as well as much-needed material handling upgrades that are meant to reduce the amount of time-sucking manual labor costs associated with getting a batch from steep tank to bags on a pallet.

“What I have come to terms with is that the financing play for expansion has to jive with malt house aspirations, not the other way around. Letting the needs and requirements of the financing terms influence our goals or take undue risks is simply too reckless for me. In short, unwise ego-driven aspirations need to be replaced with modest, incremental growth strategies utilizing myriad funding options all at the same time (private capital, bank, community rounds, government program funding, and organic).

“It takes forever because in funding an agriculture-based business you immediately go from an ocean of financing options to a hot tub of very hard to find slow-money-minded investment partners. While customer demand is there, trying to service all of it immediately doesn’t necessarily make financial sense.”

In her story, Bernot talks to Ron Extract at Garden Path Fermentations in Washington, and he points to a parallel between breweries and maltsters. Expansion at any cost doesn’t always work out, so I am left with questions. Are economies of scale more important for maltsters than brewers? Are craft maltsters agents of change? Are brewers, and ultimately drinkers, willing to pay for this change?

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Why Rocket Pop Is This Summer’s Hottest Beer Flavor. This may or may not be true, but I am totally down with the “taste the stick” experience.

“When you eat those popsicles, you taste the actual stick,” WeldWerks head brewer Skip Schwartz says. Think of gnawing the cold, wet piece of wood, sucking out the last sugary juices. “Even if it’s not a predominant flavor, to me it’s part of that beer,” he says.

What Does It Mean to Be an Asian American Brewer? The next question should be, What will it mean in another decade?

Beer Group Asks Drinkers, Legislators to Pick Sides in Beer’s Battle with Spirits. But what if I like wine?

Henekey’s Long Bar and the birth of the pub chain. The rabbit hole here leads to Norah Docker, and if you keep going to “The Judge, the Duke and the Frenchman.”

A Turn-of-the-Twentieth-Century California Steam Beer. Michael Jackson once referred to steam beer as the lone American indigenous beer style. Now we know better.

Man over machine. Spoiler alert, in Jake Against (recipe written by a human) against The Machine (AI recipe) Jake Against wins.

Defining Craft: Italian Do it Better. I can’t agree, because adding a few more stipulations and even making it a legal definition means little to consumers. Same old problem.