Thinking outside the brown bottle

Jester King Le  Petit PrincePardon the length, but I’m posting the entirety of the email that Jester King Brewery sent out yesterday. Thoughts after the message.

Earlier this year, we began experimenting with packaging some of our beer in green bottles. We started by taking a portion of our February batch of Le Petit Prince Farmhouse Table Beer, and naturally conditioning it in bottles like the one seen in the photo above. After three months of conditioning, we’re quite pleased with the results! We started selling “green bottle Le Petit Prince” in our tasting room this past weekend, and we plan on packaging some of our upcoming batches of Noble King and Mad Meg in green bottles. We’re excited to see where this experimentation takes us! For now, Le Petit Prince in green bottles is only available at our tasting room, and we still have Le Petit Prince available in brown bottles like before.

So why are we doing this?

Here’s our head brewer Garrett Crowell’s explanation:

“My pursuit of the use of green bottles stems mostly from the character of all of my favorite beers. Cuvee de Jonquilles, Blaugies, Thiriez, Fantôme, Cantillon, Dupont, all use green bottles. I’ve had brown bottle versions of some of these beers, and have had them on draft as well and there is an element missing from those versions that the green bottles have. While green bottles permit the risk of light struck/skunky character, I feel they add character, even beyond skunkiness. So many breweries have attempted to mimic the classic Saison Dupont yeast profile, and I feel what is most often missing is the light struck character that is integral to the profile of that beer.

Beer is as delicate as wine. Pasteurized, shelf stable beer has dumbed down beer consumers into believing that something will still taste fresh after leaving it in the trunk of their car, or in the sun, etc. Hopefully, green bottles will emphasize that our beer is a living thing, and that the way it’s treated will significantly alter the experience one can have with it.

I feel that beer is losing individuality through structure, and the expectation to fulfill guidelines. I absolutely like skunky beer, oxidized beer, or “flawed” beer. We allow our beer to pick up “peripheral” character that deviates from guidelines, whether it’s a bit of oak, Brettanomyces, or lactic acidity. Horse barn, goat sweat, and brett character are embraced, yet skunkiness is considered a flaw. If the way I create, and eventually package a beer renders it unfit for BJCP guidelines, then I consider that a success and furtherance of creativity. I feel as though the status quo of brewing is to find a set of guidelines, create a product that fits within them, enter a competition, and receive an award. It reminds me of standardized testing from grade school. Students spend half the year learning how to take a test, and creativity is suppressed for the sake of passing test scores.

I understand that green bottles and light struck character are going to be a challenge for most beer enthusiasts. I think we’re in a unique and important position to break down some of the indoctrination that is present and document something truly beautiful and unique.”

                  — Jester King Head Brewer Garrett Crowell

I think this is brilliant, even though I’m the guy who doesn’t like to buy Saison Dupont “off the shelf.” I usually ask if the store has unopened cases and if I can have a bottle from one of them, and then expect to see it put quickly into a paper bag. I hurry it home and store it in the dark. My dermatologist wishes I was as careful with myself.

(A couple of weeks ago at Country Boy Brewing in Lexington, Kentucky, when customers who had picked up bottles from a special release left them sitting in the sun on another part of the table where we were sitting I unobtrusively shoved them into the shade. And these were brown bottles. Heck, I’m careful where I put glasses of pilsner on a sunny day.)

So my palate doesn’t necessarily align with Crowell’s. Skunkiness generally masks other flavors I prefer from beer — I typed generally because I’m willing to concede that just above threshold it may add complexity. But that’s me. And if I want Petit Prince in a brown bottle I can still get it. Looks like a win-win, because I’m for anything that emphasizes that “beer is a living thing, and that the way it’s treated will significantly alter the experience one can have with it.”

Honored, flattered, absent. That’s me.

To quote from the American Homebrewers Association website:

“Each year, your American Homebrewers Association (AHA) Governing Committee selects a recipient for the annual AHA Governing Committee Recognition Award. The award honors outstanding service to the community of homebrewers, and is announced during the National Homebrewers Conference.”

The 2015 recipient: Stan Hieronymus.

The award was handed out Saturday in San Diego. I wasn’t there. I agree, that seems somewhat rude. But Daria and I went to Washington, D.C., along with our daughter, Sierra, for “Colonial Inauguration” at George Washington University, where she’ll be a freshman in September.

I think I used the words flabbergasted and humbled in the brief video they asked me to make. I expect to remain in that state for some time.

The Session #100 roundup posted

The SessionReuben Gray has posted the roundup for The Session #100: “Resurrecting Lost Beer Styles.”

I’ve already pointed to several of these, but one more thought from Sean at Beer Search Party:

“Not to block someone from attempting a historical beer resurrection, but an authentic California Steam beer would be hard to re-create too and that is in the not so distant past. A Goslar Gose would be a big task primarily because no one from that era could verify it’s accuracy.”

Is it Gose from Goslar or from Leipzig we are interested in? Efforts in Kentucky to revive their version of Common and in Poland to resurrect Grodziskie have focused on what those beers were like at the height of their popularity. Using the same criteria, the choice would be Gose from Leipzig. In the case of Steam, is it the mysterious beer that emerged by the middle of the nineteenth century or the beer as it was brewed when Anchor Brewing opened at the end of the century. At the outset, Steam likely was an all-malt beer, but by the 1890s it most commonly often would have been made with a good dose of corn.

666 IPAs on the wall, 666 IPAs

MONDAY BEER LINKS, MUSING 06.15.15

Why Americans have such bad taste in beer.
The premise here about the blandification of American beer is not exactly new. Should you be tempted to fork over $40 to read the complete article this story cites I’d suggest instead buying Maureen Ogle’s Ambitious Brew: The Story of American Beer. More detail, better told, and you can spend what you save on beer. [Via The Washington Post]

Should Northeast-Grown Hops Be Renamed? / Brewing an IPA with Century-Feral New York Wild Hops.
Among other things, Derek Dellinger asks “When is Cascade no longer Cascade?” Rather than renaming the hop, I’d suggest we recognize regional differences, which I’ve written about before. More interesting to me are his thoughts about brewing with hops found growing in the wild: “Hops that have absorbed the character of the land and made it their own. Truly unique, more-or-less native hops.” [Via Bear Flavored]

Retirement Home Residents Learn To Brew Beer.
What better way to stay young? [Via Hartford Courant]

5 Reasons You Shouldn’t Miss ‘Leuven Innovation Beer Festival’: Brouwerij Hof Ten Dormaal’s Leuven Beer Festival at De Hoorn.
Putting the word innovation in the name of a festival immediately makes me nervous, but apparently they could also have called it the “Leuven Intimate Beer Festival.” [Via Belgian Smaak]

Charlotte’s craft beer boom lifts other businesses, too.
“The beauty of small manufacturing is its inefficiency. … (A craft brewery) has a much larger impact on its local economy because of its inefficiency.” [Via The Herald]

Take a hike. Have a beer. Life is perfect. Here’s where.
Pairing trailheads and brewpubs across Washington state. [Via Washington Times]

National Homebrew Competition Winners.
Unless you had a beer entered or know somebody who did or judged a lot of beers in the first round and are curious if any won medals then this list will not be of interest. However, I point you to Category 14: India Pale Ale (IPA). No surprise that it had the most entries, but some would attach meaning to the fact there were 666. [Via the American Homebrewers Association]

Whither the German Pilsner?

German pilsner bitterness unitesHere is a chilling thought: “If this trend of reducing the hop-content in (German) Pilsner beer continues, by 2030 the Pilsner beer will have similar composition to today’s export or lager beers.”

The Journal of the Institute of Brewing and Distilling recently published a study that indicated the bitterness level of German pilsners had remained relatively constant between 1983 and 2006, but since then has dipped, now brewing with about 27 International Bitterness Units (IBU) rather than 30. Just in case you thought hops were making a comeback everywhere.

The report suggests there are several possible reasons for the results. “One may be purely economic reasons in times of a declining beer market in Germany. This is probably true for so-called ‘discount’ beers, which are regularly at the lower end of the legally permissible range regarding original gravity but also regarding (bitterness units). Another reason may be a change in consumer preference towards less bitter beers (a statement that
has often been made during our contacts with industry but which is currently not scientifically verifiable). Or is this an apparent case of consumer deception, because the consumers’ expectations may have been intentionally changed by the subtle decline in hop-dosage during a 40 year period? Clearly, a German Pilsner beer today is not what is was in the last century.”

The story concludes with a discussion about German food laws and if there should be a way to legally enforce the bitterness level of pilsners. That’s not going to happen.

The chart at the top compares four single breweries to the overall trend. The dark blue band on the left represents 1986-2003, the middle band 1998-2004, the one on the right 2005-2013.