Early on in this business story about Tilray brands, Dave Infante mentions a third wave of craft beer. I understand. Sales of beer from non-mega breweries surged into the late 90s, backed off, surged again into the teens, and now the hunt is on, as Infante writes, for a new story.
Yes, but, let’s talk about generations rather than waves. How old were you when Sierra Nevada Brewing began selling beer? Dogfish Head? Creature Comforts? Or, put another way, how old was Great Lakes Brewing when Off Color Brewing opened? It’s been more than 18 years since Dogfish Head founder Sam Calagione and four like-minded brewers traveled to and around Belgium, sharing their beers.
Each of them began their brewing careers between 1993 and 1996. When they returned I asked them if Anchor Brewing Sierra Nevada Brewing represented the first generation of something new, what generation did they think they were part of. The answers:
Adam Avery, Avery Brewing: “I’d say I was second generation when I started out. Hog Heaven (barley wine first brewed in 1997) really put us on the map, but our sales were still declining between 1998 and 2000. Then we made The Reverend for the first time, we started doing the series of threes (all extreme beers) and now we’ve got 19 beers we’re brewing at least once a year, third generation stuff.”
Tomme Arthur, Lost Abbey Brewing: “I’ve been at this for 10 years now and I have always considered myself to be one of the first third generation guys. I say this because I am very comfortable in my surroundings; I know a ton of the second-generation guys very well (Dick Cantwell, Fal Allen, Phil Markowski, Garrett Oliver, el al.). I believe . . . they would all view me as a younger version of them. So, third generation it is.”
Sam Calagione, Dogfish Head Brewery: “I think the second generation – Deschutes, New Belgium, Harpoon, Shipyard – did a great job of regionalizing. Our third generation has been real good as specializing.”
Vinnie Cilruzo, Russian River Brewing: “I think there is a generation between us and the first. I’m just going to point to Anderson Valley as an example. They took at style like ESB (Extra Special Bitter in England) and made it into an American beer with Belk’s (now known as Boont ESB). I also think they were the first to use the 22-ounce bottle.”
Rob Tod, Allash Brewing: “You could call us another generation, but you could also say we’re all part of the same generation with one wave after another. When they first started we already had an American-style pilsner, so they thought why try to duplicate that? Then another group figured ‘Why make an American Pale Ale your signature like Sierra Nevada?’ That kind of takes the fun out of it.”
KICKERS OF THE WEEK
Christmas is going to be weird because there won’t be a Christmas Day pint with Dad. There hasn’t been the past few years, to be honest, because he wasn’t well enough to make the short walk.
There was always the promise of it happening, though, even if we ended up drinking bottled beer on the sofa.
Maybe I’ll take Mum to the pub instead, while my brother cooks. Or perhaps I won’t. It might just be another way of pricking my heart and I don’t know if that’s helpful.
From All the pubs we didn’t go to
These celebrations are a relatively recent tradition in the US, and it’s one that presents lots of opportunity. I have some thoughts.
I firmly believe Krampusnacht could be the kickoff to an extended Starkbierzeit. Starkbierzeit is the strong beer season celebrated in Munich during Lent. To me, the perfect beverage for Krampus festivities is a strong and dark lager like Doppelbock. The strength and flavor are perfect for a cold December night. The fact that there’s goat imagery related to Bock beer and Krampus helps solidify this pairing.
Celebrations should include fires not only for ambiance, but also to heat metal rods in the bierstacheln tradition, where they’re used to warm a cold beer and nicely caramelize some residual sugars in the malty brews. And forget birch sticks for punishment. The scalding rods can also be used by Krampus to brand some jerk that uses British-style dimple mugs for lager.
As is the case for Starkbierzeit, a proper stein should be used. And not just for drinking. Pound the beer and smash that thing over the head of someone who calls a glass mug a stein.
Let the punishment begin!!!
From From Krampus Comes to the Taproom
LEDE OF THE WEEK
On a recent Wednesday, I visited the Pelton Arms in south London after a walk through nearby Greenwich park. I descended from the clouds high-up at General Wolfe’s Luftwaffe-hit plinth and found my base down at sea-level (well, the south bank of the Thames).
In the pub, sun streamed through the windows, creating natural but irregular spot lights on the floors and the open fires – perhaps becoming more emblematic of a more care-free era – provided a natural warmth.
Among this fuzzy cosiness, many Christmas decorations were about to be put up. Open fires. Tinsel. Baubles. The Pelton.
From The Pelton Arms, Greenwich – Bombardier’s last post
TASTING NOTE OF THE WEEK
Even though there is no description of aroma and flavor
Why a five? Well, this was perfectly brewed, clear and untainted with no off flavours, at a perfect temperature and was bursting with condition. The body and mouthfeel were perfect. The glass was spotless. In my mind I went over everything. Could it be improved in a normal pub environment? Not as far as I could tell. It was, simply, faultless.
From Perfect – Exceptional. A Rarity
YOU MIGHT ALSO ENJOY
– Thomas Hardy: My Part in his Downfall. Thanks to Ed Wrap for giving me a chance to post the picture at the top of a cork from a bottle of Thomas Hardy’s we opened in 2008.
– Why Breweries Are Banning Kids From Their Taprooms. Kids in taprooms. A topic that just keeps giving.
– Could Celly Drippins Become The Next Pliny The Younger? No.
– Meet The Voice Of Beer In America. If you somehow didn’t see one of the gazillion stories about the role social media stars played in the recent election, one of them was Joe Rogan. Before I grew weary of reading the same story over and over, and wondered to myself who the Joe Rogan of beer might be.
– ‘Everybody Is Drinking Guinness.’ We Know Why. and Guinness supplies being limited after demand soars. These things may not be as related as the headlines would imply.
– For the Alcohol Industry, Trump’s Tariffs Look Even More Chaotic This Time Around. And what might it mean for Guinness?
If by “Joe Rogan” you mean distributor of disinformation and self-promoter, well… it’s the holidays, Stan. One must be nice! 😉
¯\_(?)_/¯
XOXO!!!!