A few things I learned at GABF

Beer revolution going onThree days at the Great American Beer Festival last week seemed to last three weeks. So much going on. I learned a ton, but mostly stuff that will influence future posts and work that appears in good old-fashioned print.

But then you don’t need me to be telling how wonderful the Pints for Prostates Rare Beer Tasting turned out or how long the lines were in front of New Glarus Brewing. There’s plenty to read on the Internet.

That’s quite different than in 1993, when Daria and I reported on the festival for All About Beer magazine. Our story appeared a couple of months after the event. Beer news traveled at a different pace. A few pieces in regional “brewspapers” (also well after GABF) and an occasional mention in online bulletin boards and Internet mailing lists were pretty much it. Now you can read dozens of blog posts every day &#151 for instance, English writer Melissa Cole waxing romantic about a beer from a brewery in Tampa, Florida, that has been open less than a year. (Cigar City Brewing.)

However there are a few things you might not otherwise read or that I wanted to make sure you notice:

– My breweries won the GABF Fantasy Draught. I spent part of the awards ceremony talking with George Wendt (“Norm Peterson”) about his upcoming book. We went for a little walk to have a few beers. When a winner would be announced to large cheers he asked, “Are people fans of particular breweries?” Looking back over the list of breweries I picked I realized these are all ones I have a certain affection for, contest aside. Thanks again to Jonathan Surratt for the thankless job of running it.

I bumped into — the festival has gotten so big you can go three days not seeing people you are looking for — Pizza Port Carlsbad brewmaster Jeff Bagby right after the awards ceremony. When I saw him Thursday I kidded him four medals is all I expected from a second round draft choice. He was still quite a distance away on Saturday when he yelled at me, “Is this enough for you, Stan?” Seven medals, four golds. Being good at drafting (or draughting) does not compare to being good at brewing.

Will Kemper. Two golds, two silvers and Small Brewpub of the Year. Only open a little over a year but not exactly a secret (his brewery went in our draught). If you’ve never heard the name click on the link. An early superstar? Star? Maybe not a conversation to start. The music analogy for me would be Lloyd Maines or Mark Knopfler.

– I would have bet against it, but Firestone Walker Union Jack IPA did manage to go back to back, beating out 133 other entries. As impressive, Russian River Brewing’s Blind Pig IPA medaled for the third straight year. So in each of the last two years Union Jack and Blind Pig have claimed two of the possible three medals. Meaning 132 breweries have one medal to compete for. Tough odds.

– You always hear conjecture that some breweries make batches just for judging. I find that hard to believe.

But there’s no doubt that the beer Boulevard Brewing in Kansas City won gold with this year is just like the ones consumers find on the shelf (in season). Brewmaster Steven Pauwels said that when the brewery decided to enter Zon in the Belgian white/wit category they discovered that they didn’t have any of the seasonal beer in stock. So they went out a store and bought the beer they’d enter, and win with. That’s impressive.

 

Come on in, the fringe is fine

Beer revolution going onI’m all for perspective, although I expect it to go out the window this weekend in Denver.

The Simpsons and Norm Peterson? How much more pop culture can the Great American Beer Festival handle? To keep us on an even keel All About Beer magazine had historian Maureen Ogle pen a piece titled “What Revolution?” for its 30th anniversary issue, “Beer: 30.”

Early on she writes:

“Here’s where I’m supposed to wax rhapsodic about the craft beer revolutionaries who taught Americans to drink real beer, and who changed the brewing industry forever.

“I’ll pass. I’m a historian, and it’s my job to take the Long View of the Big Picture. And from my vantage point, what was fringe in 1979 is fringe in 2009, and the ‘revolution’ was not.”

Certainly not as she, and many other people, would define it. Perspective indeed, although I’m sure if she were going to be in Denver we could line up plenty of people to debate that thought. I’d like to take the other side on two different statements.

Second, she writes, “Morever, entrepreneurs are ambitious. They will always strive for more. And so small brewers expand their brewhouses in order to satisfy their ambitions and to ensure the financial future of the children and grandchildren who are born in between mashing and lagering.”

What’s changed since 1979 is that a person who wants to run a small brewing business, and keep it small, can. Yep, it’s that simple.

Now onto the first. “For every five beer geeks who applaud the arrival of say, Groovy California Brewing Co.’s ‘local’ beer on the east coast, at least one will criticize Groovy’s ambitions and find something else to drink. Something more pure, more real, more local. Something less, well, ‘successful.'”

How about choosing local because tastes better? Again it can be that simple.

Just wanted to be on the record with those two thoughts. Of course I’m the guy who when AABM asked for predictions for the next 30 years (those appear at the back of the magazine) responded with more of a wish than a prediction:

“We will continue to most enjoy beers made by breweries where, if the guy in charge really needed to put on his boots, walk into the brewhouse and make a batch of beer, he could.”

 

I’ll stick with malted barley, thank you

A company called Novozymes has introduced a new brewing enzyme “capable of working without malt and with barley as the only raw material.”

Does that sound like something you want in your beer?

Launched at Drinktec (in Germany) this week, Ondeo Pro is marketed as a tool to offer brewers freedom and flexibility than existing options. Allowing brewers to switch completely from malt to barley also helps cut costs by reducing the amount of raw material needed.

What about flavor?

There’s more to the malting process than just modifying barley so it can be used to produce alcohol. Maltsters add flavor. That’s pretty obvious when we’re talking about stuff like chocolate malt, but also true of plain ol’ pale malts.

I’ve written about this before (part I and part II) so won’t belabor the point.

Several American brewers attend Drinktech, so maybe one or more of them will have insights to share next week at the Great American Beer Festival.

My first pick . . . The Lost Abbey

Niche within a niche within a niche. Fantasy Great American Beer Festival “team.” So I’ll be brief.

Through the generosity of Jonathan Surratt, the genius behind The Beer Mapping Project, we once again get the Beer Mapping Fantasy Draught. I tied for third in 2007, missed last year (we were in Switzerland).

I sure was suprised to get The Lost Abbey with the 12th pick.

Tomorrow regular blogging will resume, because I can’t imagine reading about somebody’s fantasy football team (although I’ve seen the beer companies have start to toss all sorts of marketing support in that direction).

But if you care then follow the draft here.

 

GABF book signings

Are you going to be at the Great American Beer Festival next week?

If so please stop by the GABF Bookstore on Thursday (6:30-7:30 p.m.) or Friday (6:30-7 p.m.) and say hello. If you are carrying around a copy of Brew Like a Monk, or for that matter Frank Applegate of Santa Fe, I’ll be happy to sign in.