A noble point of order

It’s Monday, so what the heck . . .

– Last week, Jeff Alworth endeavored to shame 10 beer myths. He chose “noble hops” as one of them. I certainly prefer the term landrace hops and I agree that marketers amplified “noble” to sell their hops. However, the origins go back to the 19th century. I’ve written more extensively about this in print, but here is a short version of the story.

What bothered me more was the discussion of cohumulone. Arguments about co-eightch, as is known among both friends and foes, have centered on if hops with higher levels impart a harsher bitterness. Research at Oregon State University pretty much debunks that. And as far as “IPA hops” go, an average lot of Simcoe will have a lower level of COH than an average lot of Saaz.

A big difference between landrace varieties and modern bred varieties is the alpha to beta ratio. One reason that Coors stepped up to support Cascade hops more than 50 years ago was that Cascade had a ratio of about one to one, more like the landrace varieties large brewers were using at the time. It turned out that Cascade had other qualities (like plenty of geraniol) that didn’t quite fit in their beers. It’s not necessarily the a-to-b that makes the difference, but it serves as a marker for auxiliary bitter compounds.

Father Martin, Benedictine Brewery

Father Martin has a new hat. We are traveling, so access to my photo archives is limited. Otherwise I would also post a photo of Father Martin wearing the Benedictine Brewery “dad hat” he was wearing the last time time I saw him almost two years ago. If you visit the brewery “our story” page and scroll dad hat you’ll see him with the old hat, which was black in its youth and gray in later years.

The story is about a 50-year partnership between the abbey at Mount Angel, Oregon, and Coleman Agriculture. Previously, the monks tended to hops grown on the land that Coleman Agriculture now leases. The beer to celebrate their partnership is brewed with Simcoe hops, grown in a field across from the the brewery tasting room.

2 links before we fly away

Last week, the upper left coast (a couple of photos); this week, the right coast (might collect some photos).

Two eagles, spotted on San Juan Island

Eagle departing after tourist approaches. San Juan Island.

But first, a couple of links.

– David Jesudason rounds up The Session #149. As co-author of the Time Life “Brewpub Cookbook” I should have been there. We were otherwise occupied.

– This from hood canal cody at Bluesky. I am probably doing this wrong, but pointing to an entire thread at Bluesky seems tricky. This will drop you in at #58. If you scroll to the top you will reach #9 and see a link to take you to #1. There’s plenty here to disagree with and plenty to agree with. Check your pulse and take your picks.

It’s Monday, and look, a link (in fact, make that two)

The observation that made me laugh most loudly last week:

Tom Brewer of ABinBev is “clearly very dedicated to his job. I would even say passionate if that wasn’t something that only craft brewers are capable of feeling.”

From Ed’s Beer Site.

And as long as I am here . . . the kids in breweries story is back. Or maybe it never went away. We’ll see if I can successfully share a link. This is a version where brewery owners are considering banning children.

“These owners cited instances of children throwing rocks or running around unsupervised, staff being forced to act as babysitters, and even one occasion when a parent pulled out a travel potty for a toddler to use in front of other guests.”

Link alert

Colorado Beer Glass -- filled with Cannonball Creek Project Alpha LXXV

Father’s Day beer: Cannonball Creek Project Alpha LXXV

There was plenty of interesting (new to me, even) reading last week, but I am sticking with my plan not to reenter the That Was The Beer Week That Was business.

However, this is a little different. On Thursday my beer RSS feed began filling with links to articles at Randy Mosher’s website, remodeled, in part, I think, to support his upcoming book, “Your Tasting Brain.” Mosher has added articles going back almost 20 years to his archives. Something for everyone.

6.02.25 beer links: True Beer vs Big Craft & very bad news

The news Sunday that Martyn Cornell has died was a gut punch. Friends filled Bluesky with small stories, including links to many of his blog posts. Rereading one of my favorites — “In which I give more badly written beer history a good kicking” — I couldn’t help but smile for a moment. It was a sentence after sentence takedown, and should have made any writer happy to have Martyn not review their work.

JUST WONDERING

ABI’s Years of Craft Strategy Whiplash Are Catching Up With It details Anheuser-Busch InBev’s failures over the years to sell enough beer that customers would rather drink than the ones their closer-to-home breweries back. In the story, Dave Infante mentions “big craft” (which he puts in quotation marks). If I read it correctly, I think he means “craft-like” (my quotation marks) beer from breweries that do not meet the Brewers Association’s definition of craft brewery.

Which I think is different than the big craft Alan McLeod has been referring to for at least a dozen years (scroll to page 7). McLeod might correct me, but he has been referring to breweries such at Sierra Nevada (1.1 million barrels produced in 2024), and perhaps even ones such as Fiddlehead Brewing (108,143 barrels).

This raises several questions. ABI big craft, after all, is made up of breweries that used to qualify to be members of the Brewers Association. How is Goose Island pre-2011 different than Goose Island today? Do they have more in common with ABI or Fiddlehead? More important to me, personally, as a brewery visitor, does Sierra Nevada have more in common with the ABI group as a group or with Liquid Mechanics Brewing (1,369 barrels) in Lafayette, Colorado, where I had a terrific Helles Friday afternoon?

Forty years ago, Vince Cottone, a beer columnist for the Seattle Post-Intelligencer who contributed to numerous publications, first used the phrases craft-brewing scene, craft brewery and craft brewing in the manner they are thought of today.

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