Some best and otherwise Very Important Beers

American Brewer magazine 1999

Back in the day I yielded to temptation and posted lists. I also railed against them. So you might figure there is no reason to trust me.

But two lists (the second is really multiple lists) that showed up last week sent me to the files to dig out a couple from the days of print that I will share them here.

The headline on the first—The 25 Most Important American Beers of All Time—screams bring back a Jay Brooks takedown (another back-in-the-day thing in which Jay would dig deep, point after point, about something written). I commented in one Twitter thread, and otherwise have three questions.

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Covid neither neighborhood nor innovation friendly

Boak & Bailey’s news and nuggets Saturday served as a reminder that UK beer drinkers are stuck in a grim cycle. My Twitter and Instagram feeds, full of snaps of people gathered with friends (but not too many friends) at bars and brewery tasting rooms, suggest things are better here. Has the worst really past? There are reasons to believe it hasn’t.

Story No. 1 from the Wall Street Journal this past weekend: “McDonald’s, Chipotle and Domino’s Are Booming During Coronavirus While Your Neighborhood Restaurant Struggles.” The subhead: “A health crisis is creating a divide in the restaurant world. Big, well-capitalized chains are thriving while small independents struggle to keep their kitchens open.”

Story No. 2: “Covid Is Crushing Small Businesses. That’s Bad News for American Innovation.”

(These stories are behind the Journal’s paywall. I tracked them down in print, which is one more thing that’s not as easy as it was at the beginning of the year.)

Restaurants come and go. About 60,000 open in an average year, according to the National Restaurant Association, and 50,000 close. But this year it will be much worse. The association predicts 100,000 restaurants will close during 2020. Employment at restaurants and bars has dropped by 2.3 million jobs from a total of more than 12 million before the pandemic, according to the Labor Department.

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Defining farmhouse ale; reconsidering history

Lars Garshol, author of “Historical Brewing Techniques: The Lost Art of Farmhouse Brewing,” writes about “What counts as a farmhouse ale?”

It’s simple, but . . . “Farmhouse brewing is about the tradition, not the source of the ingredients.” He explains.

He also weighs in on the matter of whether saison was really a farmhouse product. Roel Mulder has suggested otherwise. Cutting a long story short, Garshol concludes saison is a style that belongs in the farmhouse family. But first, he makes two important points.

– “Farmers who grow grain will brew beer as long as it makes economic sense for them, and whether there is industry nearby won’t necessarily affect the economic logic at all.”

– Some facts can neither be proved as undeniable nor disproved.

This is as true of American brewing history as it is of farmers in the Hainaut region of Belgium making beer in spring for the harvest work. The history in the centuries after, or perhaps even before, the time Thomas Hariot describes brewing on Roanoke Island between 1584 and 1586 is incomplete.

Start with the thought there were a lot of farmers growing grain. Accept that there’s more about brewing in the Americas than has already been documented. Go.

Monday beer briefing: Provide your own commentary

09.30.19, BEER & FERMENTATION LINKS

Cedric Burnside, Wildwood Revival 2019We spent Friday through Sunday listening to live music at a delightful festival south of Athens (Georgia). It was terrific. Cedric Burnside, pictured above, was particularly excellent. Here are links to some excellent beer reading.

1) Ambitious Brew! Revised!
        Highly recommended. *****

2) Tracing the Origins of Beer Language, from Michael Jackson to Emojis.
        I’ll have more to say about this soon, perhaps Wednesday.

3) The Original Originals — In the Czech Republic, the Budweiser War Opens an Eastern Front

4) The Coziness of a Belgian Cafe.

5) Now Rising to the Top of the Beer World: Foam.

6) Start drinking up now, please.

7) Thirty Years of Beer at Pike Brewing.

8) Why Oh Why Is the Good Beer Guide Still Getting British Beer Styles So Totally, Shambolically Wrong?

9) German Court Says a Hangover Is an Illness.

WINE

10) The mysterious and not fully understandable wine defect popping up in natural wines: mouse.
        The beery companion: Cereal Killer — Why THP is Bad for Beer and What You Can Do About It.

MORE LINKS

ReadBeer, every day.
Daily newsletter: Inside Beer.
Alan McLeod, most Thursdays.
Good Beer Hunting’s Read Look Drink, most Fridays.
Boak & Bailey, most Saturdays.

Monday beer briefing: Storytelling, tribes & what is this about sheep?

09.23.19, BEER & FERMENTATION LINKS

1) Ken Burns’ Soft-Focus Look at Country Music.
2) Ken Burns’ New Documentary Is in Love With Country’s Myths, Not Its Music
These two reviews do not reflect how well Country Music has been received. The series is very entertaining and mostly loved. As a consequence, it acts an advertisement for country music, and I’ve already read stories about how one result will be still more tourism in Nashville. That’s fine, but Stephen Thomas Erlewine and Carl Wilson point to what was not included, and how the series could have been better.

Last month, Jeff Alworth wrote about the importance of storytelling to breweries. This includes recruiting others, writers or customers are both welcome, to tell the stories. But the tales the breweries would like repeated pretty much word for word may not be the ones folks such as Erlewine or Wilson end up reporting. That’s why it is called reporting.

When I gave the keynote at the Beer Bloggers Conference (now called Beer Now) a few years ago I opened it by playing a clip from James McMurtry’s “Life in Aught-Three.” It begins, “Not that I advocate drinking or nothing. It’s just my job you see. I used to think I was an artist. Come to find out I’m a beer salesman.”

Just a few things I thought about as I assembled links this week.

3) Making sense of rival tribes.
Mike Veseth writes about Wagnerians and Martians and conflicting ideas of wine in America. Wagner believed that wine should be an affordable part of ordinary life and a constant companion at mealtime. The Martian view is that “…anything less than superlative was unworthy, that no price could be too high, and that the enjoyment of wine required rigorous preparation.”

The price question is a constant in beer circles (and pops up pretty much every day). But it is one that brewers must continue to consider if they are serious about inclusivity.

There was plenty of good reading and interesting news last week, so I will leave it to you without comment. Other than suggesting you don’t go directly No. 12, skipping the rest, because the headline is so seductive.

4) Do Electric Sheep Dream of Pilsner? — Halfway Crooks Beer in Atlanta, GA.
5) Riding the Rails: NY Hudson Valley Breweries Near the Metro North Train Line.
6) The Adventures of Nelson and Goldy — Employees of the Month — Pellicle.
7) Under the influence – the empowerment of female beer influencers.
8) The Future of Cask Ale.
9) Why Traditional Cask Ale is Making a Comeback.
10) Craft and local – with Jordi Sánchez Puig of Lupulina.
11) Dixie Brewery rebirth update.
12) Two Amish men escape police after being pulled over for drinking and driving their horse and buggy.

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13) On music and wine.
There are many sections of this article where is would be easy to hit search (wine) and replace (beer). For instance, this, “WineBeer is a multi-sensory experience. We smell it. We taste it. We see it shimmer in the glass, and we feel it wash across our palates. The only sense we don’t use when evaluating wine is hearing.” Oops. Bad choice, because Fred Eckhardt taught us to listen to our beer.

So try this, “Comparing winebeer to music also helps us grasp the importance of complexity beyond flavor. Of course, a great wine will taste of many things from fruit to flowers, soil to spice. But, what keeps us engaged is the order in which these layers of flavors present themselves and how they transform on the tongue.” That works.

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MORE LINKS

ReadBeer, every day.
Daily newsletter: Inside Beer.
Alan McLeod, most Thursdays.
Good Beer Hunting’s Read Look Drink, most Fridays.
Boak & Bailey, most Saturdays.