For your beer reading pleasure

The North American Guild of Beer Writers announced its awards for beer writing between mid-2021 and mid-2022 yesterday.

Plenty to read there, but here are a few other posts that caught my attention last week:

The Voodoo Ranger Effect.
“What do these drinkers actually want?’ They want to have fun. They want to drink with their friends. They want to game.”

Another tough year for Italy’s craft brewers.
Consumers pivoting to buying their beers in supermarkets seems to have largely benefitted the country’s Big Brewers.

Craft Beer’s Pastry Obsession Has Hit Bourbon.
“I find it funny that those same dudes will scoff at Knob Creek Smoked Maple or [Wild Turkey] American Honey, while sipping on a Toasted Strawberry Mocha Finished whiskey with a ‘Let’s Go Brandon’ sticker on it.”

‘The category formerly known as craft’

Jeff Alworth wrote about “the role of status” and beer last week. When he posted a link on Twitter, Mike Kallenberger dashed of some quick thoughts you should also read. And I had to smile when in summary he wrote: “Status isn’t a small thing in beer more generally. But it’s a smaller thing in the category formerly known as craft.” (My emphasis.)

In the midst of his essay, Alworth suggests the popularity of hazy IPAs could be linked to the fact people across the room can see what you are drinking. I’m a bit surprised he does not mention how important cloudy presentation was to the success of Widmer Brothers Hefeweizen in the 1980s. After all, he wrote a book about the brewery.

In “Brewing With Wheat,” Rob Widmer tells the story about how he and his brother, Kurt, offered to let Carl Simpson at the Dublin Pub in Portland sell an unfiltered version of their wheat beer as a Dublin Pub Brand.

“Carl took the time to explain the cloudiness to people,” said. “The pub served the beer in a 23-ounce glass garnished with a lemon, and Simpson would have his waitstaff load a tray with glasses and walk through the pub. Other customers would ask about what was on the tray and order the same.

A decade later, the story was repeated in the Midwest when Boulevard Brewing found success with Boulevard Wheat.

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Post Magic: “Human Cannonball no longer tastes like being skullfucked by the entire hop store but rather a quick peck on the lips. It isn’t a riotous celebration of aggressive bitterness but rather an afternoon hop tea with the grandparents. It is rounded and cleaner and therefore not remotely as intense or tasty.

“This is the Cannonball Run made for your cousin who thinks they share the same passion as you because they bought a 4 pack of Barry Island IPA from the supermarket once. This is the Run made for people who appear on BBC documentaries with brand tattoos and willingly perform raps that they have written about breweries that they like. This is the Run for people that would still queue for a burger from Almost Famous.”

No, those were not weeds. Philadelphia city workers destroyed all the hops in a small yard growing beside Philadelphia Brewing Company. This is not a heart warming story, but you still might smile at this: “In the meantime, the local community has come together in ways that situations like this often inspire: Since it was reported in the local media, [the brewery has] been receiving calls from local home-brewers offering to help, offering to drop off hops that they grow themselves.”

– The Great American Beer Festival has added a list of beers that will be poured Oct. 6-8. There are a lot. But the first GABF in three years is going to seem strange without long-time regulars such as Alaska Brewing (except for an appearance from Alaskan Smoked Porter in the “Wish We Were Here” taproom), New Glarus Brewing, Bell’s Brewery, New Belgium Brewing (except for its Trippel), Boulevard Brewing, Stone Brewing, Goose Island . . .

Cultural vandalism. Molson Coors plans to close the National Brewery Centre, the former Bass Museum, in Burton. h/t Boak & Bailey.

– Revolution Brewing in Chicago has released CaramelCrisp, a 7% ABV brown ale made with caramel popcorn from Garrett Popcorn. Good luck with the paywall, but perhaps this is all you care to know.

Pubs
London I.

London II.

London Future?

Headline Gussie Busch would not understand
30 Under the Radar Breweries in Maine.

Finding a place for Old School (whatever that is)

Michael Jackson visits Louisville in 1994

David Pierce, Michael Jackson, Buck Rissler and Roger Baylor. The photo was taken in 1994 when Jackson was touring the United States researching a book that was never written. You can find the story here.

Roger Baylor proudly remembers that Michael Jackson called him a polemicist.

The first time Daria and I wrote about Rich O’s in New Albany, Indiana, in January of 1995 the place had three draft beers, was a “Lite-Free Zone” and encouraged cigar smoking. One tap poured Guinness, one Pilsner Urquell and the “middle tap” rotated. Baylor let customers know in advance what was coming and how many kegs were to be available. By the end of the year, when we compiled our “Beer Travelers Guide,” Rich O’s was up to five taps. Sierra Nevada joined Guinness and Pilsner Urquell as a regular and there were two rotating taps.

By 1999, when we assembled “The Beer Lover’s Guide to the USA” Rich O’s had well-chosen 20 taps.

Twenty-one years ago, when I wrote about what was going on inside of some bars in the days after the terrorist attacks commemorated yesterday, he was the first one I called for a column that began:

In the hours immediately after terrorists flew airplanes into the Pentagon and New York City’s Twin Towers on Sept. 11, Rich O’s Public House publican Roger Baylor paced anxiously between his pub and Pizza Time, the restaurant/bar next door that he also owns. Pizza Time has television sets; his pub does not.

“I was freaking out, basically,” he said. He began to think of the many people with whom he wanted to talk, who he should call. “Then I realized that I didn’t have to. I thought, ‘They’ll all be in here.’” Sure enough, as shifts ended regulars began to drift in. “There are a group of us, well I’m always here, we all sort of appear at the same time,” Baylor said.

The regulars discovered that Baylor had put a television on the counter up front – the first time a TV had been in the bar in three years. Those who wanted the latest news could get it, then find seats out of television range. “People would retreat back into the bar to talk, to get away from these images for a while,” Baylor said. “The first few days there was only one thing (the terrorist attacks) that they talked about.”

I offer this to provide context to a post last week in which Baylor contemplates retirement. He is younger than I am, and that is something I certainly haven’t figured out. Reading it I was reminded that what we expect beer might taste like has changed in 1995, but how we expect it might enhance the quality of our day to day hasn’t. Also, that while it may be cool to be a publican, it is also kind of shitty.

We can do better, right?
The story brilliantly delivers what the headline, “Women’s Work — What the Story of a 17th-Century Brewster Can Teach Us About 21st-Century Brewery Ownership,” promises.

It asks questions.

“What barriers, for example, did women like (Sarah)Frankes face when entering the 17th-century beer trade? How common were such brewsters’ experiences, and how did their work integrate into their larger, complex worlds? And most importantly, is this past really in the past, or is it something 21st-century women in beer have inherited?

“Equally, we can ask difficult questions about gender and brewery ownership today. Why are so many women brewery owners today married to their co-owner? What happens when a single woman who wants to open a brewery seeks funding? And if we ask you, right now, to picture an archetypical brewmaster, how many of you imagine a cis man?”

And more questions.

“But in excavating what we can of these histories, contemporary champions of women in beer must ask what conditions would enable even greater participation for women—especially those with fewer financial resources—to continue in the spirit of (Mary Lisle) and Frankes. The industry is eager for women to participate, but larger socioeconomic forces have always to some degree constrained the choices women are able to make about business ownership.”

Related: “Women Entrepreneurs Who Have Launched Their Own Beer Industry Businesses.”

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– After this story about TRU Colors Brewing this news doesn’t seem like much of a surprise.

The best beer cities in the United States? Happy to see Milwaukee so high, but wondering why St. Louis can’t crack a list that has Dayton Beach at No. 12.

Why are beer growlers more expensive than six-packs?

A headline Gussie Busch would not have understood
Heineken buys out Led Zeppelin son’s craft brewery

‘Or are you unintentionally shutting them out?’

Mark Dredge has written about 4,500 words, which is a lot, at Good Beer Hunting about beer flavor wheels, which he creates and sells, and tasting tools. He is correct that language is a weapon some people use to keep the beer they drink exclusive. You know if you know, but, sorry, you don’t know.

If you don’t have time for 4,500 words, go directly to what Garrett Oliver says, including, “when you’re speaking to an audience you have to think in terms of, are you bringing them into something, allowing them to see it, smell it, taste it, in their own minds, or are you unintentionally shutting them out?”

Re-reading what Jamie Goode wrote about if anyone still needs wine writers, I realized his story and Dredge’s are both for members of Club Wine or Club Beer, as the case may be. They are in the trade or otherwise invested in wine/beer. Goode wrote, “As Hugh Johnson once said, wine needs words. Wine needs people to communicate about it, because it is a complex area, and also a deeply interesting area. If it’s reduced to just the taste of a liquid in a glass, we are all doomed.”

If you, non-trade member, want to recommend a beer to a friend you don’t need to talk about if it tastes of pitanga, carambola or acerola. You can simply say, “I like it.” Or perhaps hand them a glass.

I’m in Ecuador today — that is, if you are reading this Aug. 22 — and in a few hours will be talking to brewers about biotransformations and thiols. Parting gifts will include a list of hop descriptors compiled by the American Society of Brewing Chemists.
You’ll notice the list of aromas/flavors are ones drinkers will already know from elsewhere. We rely on past experiences to suggest what to expect in new ones.

It would be much easier were we like the Jahai, a tribe of hunter-gatherers in Thailand. Their language has more than a dozen words to describe smells, none of which relate to the smell of any particular object. The word for “edible” is applied to gasoline, smoke, bat droppings, some millipedes and the wood of wild mango trees. But this works for them. When researchers gave a standard test to Jahai, they found that the Jahai tended to be quick and consistent in describing the smell, even though the actual odors used were unfamiliar to them.

It’s one thing to suggest aromas and flavors a compound such as 3-mercaptohexan-1-ol (3MH) may add to a beer, it is another to taste it. Because, as those of you who have read “For the Love of Hops” may remember, we humans sometimes have different genetic barcodes when it comes to aroma perception. So rather than handing out adjectives I’ve brought along a beer that “over expresses” 3MH. I’m looking forward to hearing the descriptors attendees come up with.

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Everybody and their grandad loves Punk IPA.

“The cool thing about beer is that it’s different colors, different flavors.”

The $15 (AU) pint?

“Drink up,” suggests Japanese government.

See you when the summer’s through*

Where in the beer world?

Remember “Where in the beer world?” Time to play again. The answer will be posted in this month’s Hop Queries. Consider that a hint.

Almost every link I saved during the past week to post here you will find at a Good Beer Blog or from Boak & Bailey. That gives me an excuse to jump the gun on my plan to put That Was The Beer Week That Was (TWTBWTW) on pause beginning Memorial Day and instead start now. Monday transmissions may resume the Monday after Labor Day.

But please drop by once in a while so see if there are random posts. Here is an example.

Two stories from last week:

A) Goose Island Brewing put a million dollars worth of NFTs (non-fungible tokens) up for sale. Read it in the Chicago Tribune if you know the way around its paywall, or at Eater.

B) NFTs and building a community around a beer brand.

Now highlights from a story from the New York Post two-plus years ago about Brooklyn hops hipsters, an average-looking guy from the Midwest and White Claw:

Chaos erupted outside [Other Half Brewing in Brooklyn] when an apparently annoyed craft-beer hater pulled a gun on a long line of people who were waiting to buy the latest designer IPA, according to cops and online reports.

The gun-slinging skeptic struck around the corner from the brewery, where beer lovers with camp chairs and hand trucks regularly line up overnight to buy limited-run, $18 four-packs in collectible cans, sold when the doors open Saturday mornings.

It was at around 9 p.m. when the gunman and a woman he was with allegedly confronted the long line of hops hipsters.

Read more