monday links

Good morning, class. Your assignment this week is to write an essay that should include beer and culture in the title as well as one or more of these words:

Class
Luxury
Affordable
Craft
Postmodern
Postindustrial

The reading material:

– First up, last week, Boak & Bailey asked “What is a healthy beer culture?”

– During the week, Jeff Alworth posted about time in Prague, including a bit of “generalizing.” Along the way he writes, “Beer, as I’ve mentioned probably too many times, is a product of culture.” Don’t click away without reading Alistair Reece’s comment.

– This may seem like an aside, but it is a reminder that alcohol is one of the attractions of drinking beer. Alan McLeod pointed to a story about experiences at a festival where the only manufacturers featured were Ontario based craft breweries that have begun to offer non-alc or low-alc products as part of their lineup. Some differences from the traditional version, and not just the demographic (some of the patrons have hearing aids).

– Mcleod also had thoughts about list of the most overrated beer styles.

To which, Mike Kallenberger commented at Bluesky, “The take on overrated beer styles has me wondering yet again if ‘chasing trends’ hasn’t caused subtle but lasting harm to ‘craft beer brand equity’ (whatever that is) even as it spurs short-to-medium term sales.”

– Think about that while reading “After a Boom, Craft Beer Considers a New Creed: Less Is More.”

At the end, Bob Kunz at Highland Park Brewing in Los Angeles says he sees growing demand for beer served by the pitcher. “Nobody has to think about what they’re buying,” he said. “You end up having more collective experiences if you’re drinking the same beer.”

– In ”The Sum of Small Things: The Theory of the Aspirational Class” author Elizabeth Currid-Halkett introduces the concept of “conspicuous production,” which stands in contrast to “conspicuous consumption.” She writes that, “Inconspicuous consumption in other words, has become a shorthand through which the new elite signal their cultural capital to one another.”

Let’s be realistic. Had some members of what Currid-Halkett labels the new elite not embraced craft beer, stories about it would not be appearing in The New York Times. And what could be a better example inconspicuous consumption than drinking beer by the pitcher?

Alcohol. People. Beer drinkers. Connections. Beer makers.

Have I left anything out?

The photo at the top was taken at Pepi’s, a restaurant in Vail, Colorado, that serves excellent German-inspired food. That is Deschutes Fresh Haze in a half-liter glass. A crossing of cultures, it seems. FYI, a member of our traveling party ordered it. I went with a Hacker-Pschoor.

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Stephanie Grant gets right to the point:

“True collaboration, especially when the grounds are unequal between the two collaborators, should ensure both parties benefit from the interaction. And that shouldn’t always come in the form of money, but also knowledge in and outside the brewhouse.

“It’s time for Black people in the craft beer community to go beyond the excitement of collaborating with a brewery they admire and ask themselves: How can we both get the most out of this collaboration? We must not mistake our unequal footing as in not having value. If that were the case, the offer to collaborate with established breweries wouldn’t exist. It’s time to balance the scales.

“So, what’s the way forward?”

Knowledge and capital, she answers, particularly capital. Exhibit A: The 8 Trill Fund started by Crown & Hops.

“Unlike past charity-based collaboration initiatives that often fall out of relevance once the beer is brewed and the check is written, the Eight Trillion Allies Collaboration Series encourages breweries to stay engaged,” she writes. “And it’s not restricted to a moment in time, but an ongoing effort to bring equity to the craft beer industry and increase Black brewery ownership to 13%.”

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– In the spirit of #PubJanuary: Anthony Gladman makes the case for “sitting on your own with a pint.” And when Boak & Bailey visited a pair of rebooted Bristol pubs they found “a classic example of a pub that has not got much for us personally but we’re glad it exists, serving a distinct crowd, and appears to be thriving.” Finally, a press release about Proper Pubs installing defibrillators across its estate. This is not to imply the customers who make up their distinct crowd are of a certain age, but that this is a measure to serve the communities where the pubs operate.

– Historic hop fraud. Styrian hops sold as Saazer hops in the 19th century. I’ve got observations about some of the details in this post that I will share in the next Hop Queries.

– It seems that the status of craft beer — the good, the bad, the in-between — can be found on a single street in San Diego.

– $20 pints are coming. Those are New Zealand dollars. That equates to $12.25 in the United States, where, in some cases, consumers may already be paying similar prices.

– “I brewed the $150 Tesla Cyberbeer so you don’t have to.” It’s a video and it’s a bit silly. But, dang, it reminds you why it is fun to be a homebrewer.

You know if you know (at which brewery this request is posted)

Happy New Year. It seems, since last compiling links Dec. 18, that I missed many year-end wrap ups and predictions for 2024. Alan McLeod generously catalogued many of them. I thank him for making it easy to move forward with only a quick look at two posts related to looking backward and looking forward before going forward:

– If you didn’t share a recap video, did 2023 even happen?
– A New Year’s resolution for 2024: never tweet
I look at X once most days, which means I only see a sliver of what I might. Plenty of interesting people are still there, and I wish they’d move to Bluesky. I occasionally will retweet something to be polite, but I’m doing my best not to post. It is always tempting. A little experiment Dec. 20, when the National Hop Report came out, served as a reminder: I posted to Twitter, to Bluesky and to Facebook. Twitter easily drove the most traffic.

Two essential reads this week
– The Philosophy of the Farmer Brewers
Because these brewers only use ingredients sourced from their farm. “It is a volatile practice that leads to conflict, improvisation, and frustration in equal measure.”

– Anon, A Giant Monster Roams — Torrside Brewery in New Mills, Derbyshire
Yes, Alan McLeod and Boak & Bailey already pointed to this story, but I didn’t want you to miss this thought: “They still feel unique within the industry—a more playful side of brewing that is becoming increasingly rare.”

The, wow, ‘How did this happen?’ story of the week
– The Sad Spiral of Rockmill Brewery: How the Craft Beer Darling Ended up in Foreclosure

These ideas would seem to be related
– Reasons to Skip Dry January
– In 2024, How About “Pub January?”
As appealing as these “Pubs in AI” look, Pub January requires visiting physical pubs.

By the numbers
– Boak & Bailey share their Bristol spreadsheet.
– One Year and 389 Breweries Later.

I only read the headline
(I didn’t inhale)
– 9 Things You Should Know About Old Style Beer

Strong Rope Brewery in Brooklyn sends a message

A programming note: Looking at the calendar, I see that Christmas and New Year’s Day fall on Mondays, so no Monday links here until Jan. 8.

The year about to end will be the first one, with the exception of Covid-depressed 2020, that the sum of beers produced by the breweries categorized as “craft” did not increase. That goes back to when the Institute of Brewing Studies was collecting the statistics for microbreweries and brewpubs and had not yet defined “craft brewery.”

(The IBS was a subsidiary of the Association of Brewers, which merged with the Brewers Association of American in 2005 to form the Brewers Association.)

A “Year in Beer” summary produced by the Brewers Association and chief economist Bart Watson’s presentation last week for association members and the press both focused on the business of beer. They made it clear that the numbers reflect an ongoing trend, and that 2024 will be just as challenging for breweries.

Why should beer drinkers care? For one thing, if your favorite brewery goes out of business you’ve lost something. So consider Watson’s last two slides. He suggested that “most of the challenges craft faces have opportunities in craft strengths.” Flavor and variety matter, a wide range (including next to zero) ABVs serve different occasions well, and where diversity grows niche and local opportunities do as well.

And on the final slide, he asked, “How will you grow occasions in 2024?”

I was reminded of standing outside one of the tents at the first St. Louis Brewers Festival in 2007. Anheuser-Busch invested considerable resources to pour a few of its beers along with six other St. Louis area breweries at the time — a different time, indeed. The festival was a tiny part of A-B’s “Here’s to Beer” national campaign (the url herestobeer.com now redirects to A-B and the Wayback Machine gets stuck at the age check gate, which is too bad; fun to see that mid-aughts thinking).

Bob Lachky, executive vice president of Global Industry and Creative Development, was an enthusiastic proponent of the promotion. He was a man pretty good at his job, and credited with the “I Love You, Man” and “Whassup?!” campaigns as well as the Budweiser frogs. Bud Light did quite well when he was the brand manager.

(He was less than impressed with everything related to Dylan Mulvaney earlier this year. “It took us 20 years to take Bud Light beer to the No. 1 beer in the country, and it took them one week to dismantle it,” he told the St. Louis Post-Dispatch.)

Lachky was drinking a Budweiser, watching attendees head out after the taps closed.

Among other things, he talked about young drinkers turning to spirits to celebrate rather than beer. “We can’t keep losing the occasions,” he said.

Deja vu.

Postcript: Primitive Beer’s Hotbierfest is a pretty good example of how to do a occasion right.

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– Colorado Grain Chain. Speaking of Primitive Beer, the brewery uses all Colorado-grown grain. And Primitive co-owner Lisa Boldt is the Colorado Grain Chain project manager. The nonprofit Grain Chain is member-supported and, among other things, helps small-scale farmers to network and market their products. “If we as brewers and distillers want the local community to support us, to buy our products and come to our tasting rooms, I think it’s important that we support the local ingredients that go into our products,” Boldt says.

– New York City’s Strong Rope Brewery and the East Coast Cask Revival. It is delightful to see Strong Rope founder/brewer Jason Sahler get this attention. “When I am giving tours I am the face of the beer,” he told me when I visited him in Brooklyn’s Gowanus neighborhood in 2019. “But I tell them all of this is not possible without farmers. The farmers do all the work before (ingredients) touch our deck. It’s easier for me to explain that on a small scale. There’s something more tangible to me when it’s local.”

– Cola Craze: Germans Love America’s Iconic Soda So Much They Put It in Their Beer. Spezi, a blend of Coke and orange soda, was created by Brauerei Riegele in Augsburg in the 1960s. Riegele was founded in 1386. A tour includes the well they draw water from. “This water has never seen humanity. The first thing it sees is beer,” Sebastian Priller-Riegele, a 28th generation brewer, told me when I visited the brewery in 2019. Riegele wins scores of medals for its well-made, Reinheitsgebot-conforming beers, but it seems that award-winning beer isn’t the only reason they have stayed in business for more than 600 years.

– The Best Hidden Gem Places to Drink in 2023. Some of the places sound cool; others not so much. But what I really want to know is if any of the three (three!) spots in Austin, Texas, have a sticker that declares: “THIS IS ONE OF DOUG’S TOP 50 BARS IN AUSTIN.”

You can’t make this stuff up

– HOPnotic spell. A hop water brand has hired a hypnotist “who will hypnotize select consumers to help make sure they stay extra dry this January.” It is a contest, of sorts.

– Blue cheese beer. “We’re always looking for something to ferment, whether it’s sauerkraut or pickles or beer or wine, whiskey, cheese, you name it, it’s all fermented.”

And for the last link of 2023 . . .

I’d rather not point to a post from X, but this seems essential. Yes, do read the comments (replies).

I know a lot of you don't touch macro brands on principle, but I'm not one of you. When Camden Town was bought out I carried on drinking it Hells because it was still a decent pint and it's in all my local pubs. I said I'd stop when it no longer was decent. Today is that day. 1/2 pic.twitter.com/1LWsvleWRG

— Pete Brown (@PeteBrownBeer) December 13, 2023

Last week the (well, my) question was: What now? This week the question is: Where Are We Now? In this case, Dr. J Jackson-Beckham’s take on the state of social advocacy work in craft beer.

Make time to read this.

Please.

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IPA still travels well. So not only does it work to ship hoppy pale beer from England to India, but China is a consistent top-five market for American craft breweries. And guess what the Chinese are buying. “Hazy and West Coast IPAs are among the most popular styles . . .” and most popular brands include “hop-forward American heavyweights, including Russian River Brewing Co., Tree House Brewing Co., and Other Half Brewing Co.”

(Do you get these beers in the states where you live?)

Making a difference. That’s Kokua, brewed to raise funds for survivors of the devastating wildfire in Maui, on the left, and Black is Beautiful, which raises funds to support the National Black Brewers Association, on the right. Daria and I enjoyed them Saturday at Ex Novo Brewing in Corrales, Nex Mexico. The brewery is located about a mile from a house in which we once lived, unfortunately before it opened. Maui Brewing CEO Garrett Marrero is the driving force behind Kokua. He and NB2A are the 2023 award winners announced by Brewbound.

Another list, I know, but a good one.

Cask beer in 2023. A roundup. Hogshead Brewery in Denver is not on the list, but I am including a photo of foam atop Gilpin Black Gold, a porter, because I can.

The nomads of craft brewing. I’m a sucker for a good headline, in this case on a story about Crossroads Mobile Canning in Hood River, Washington.

Wine, Globalization, and the End of History. Mike Veseth writes that wine had its “End of History” moment in the 1990s. Until then, the history of wine was defined, more or less, by Old World notions of appellations and terroir. Jancis Robinson shook things up in 1995 with a wine series on BBC, in which, rather than organizing a tour of the wine world by historic regions she sorted things by grape variety, and included New World wine producers as well as Old World ones.

Sound familiar?

Veseth also writes that the 1990s were a golden age for wine, and that it didn’t last. I’m waiting for somebody to post a well thought out essay about the golden age for beer. I look forward to linking to it.