Cold IPA backs its way into style guidelines

Creature Comforts Get Comfortable campaign

The Brewers Association released its beer style guidelines for 2022 yesterday. There are no new style additions, saving us the usual complaints about a) too many styles, and b) everything about the latest addition being all wrong.

From the press release:

“A few examples of significant updates include adding several hybrid India Pale Ale styles to the Experimental IPA category; modernizing Session Beer and Session IPA to adjust the lower end of abv downward to 0.5%, as brewer interest in lower ABV beers has increased rapidly over the past two years; and standardizing language on Juicy or Hazy Styles based on brewer and judge feedback and adding verbiage about ‘hop burn.’

“‘As the craft beer landscape continues to evolve, we want to ensure that our Beer Style Guidelines continue to be a trusted resource worldwide and are in stride with the innovation that continues to be brought forward,’ said Chris Swersey, competition director, Brewers Association. ‘We took 2022 as a year to focus on housekeeping, to address some discrepancies within the existing beer styles, and for a small number of significant updates to certain beer styles.’”

Only a few words may still amount to a significant update. Which leads us to the marriage of the established style American-Style India Pale Lager and a style in waiting, Cold IPA.

The only change in the IPL guidelines between 2021 and 2022 is in the additional notes.

2021: “This style of beer should exhibit the fresh character of hops.”

2022: “This style of beer should exhibit the fresh character of hops. Some versions may be brewed with corn, rice, or other adjunct grains, and may exhibit attributes typical of those adjuncts.”

The change leaves room for one of the things that makes Cold IPA different than IPL, the use of adjuncts to lighten the body. There’s more, and Creature Comforts Get Comfortable 2022 beer is a good way to consider that.

Creature Comforts brews Get Comfortable each year in support of its Get Comfortable campaign, and for the last four years that has been an IPA made in collaboration with (in order) Russian River Brewing, Allagash Brewing, Sierra Nevada and Bell’s Brewery. Creature COO/brewmaster Adam Beauchamp and Bell’s vice president in charge of operations John Mallett talked about the beer during a launch event earlier this month.

Beauchamp said that the grist includes 30 percent Carolina Gold rice (check) and is fermented with lager yeast at a warmer than typical for lager yeast temperature (check – the other attribute that sets Cold IPA apart from IPL). He began grinning when he pointed out, “The A in IPA stands for ale, and lager inherently is not ale.” Then he laughed.

“What that does for me, it allows a really clear expression of hops that are not muddied by yeast character,” he said. Fruity flavors that result from interaction with ale yeast are not present to clash with fruity hop flavors. Sulfur compounds that result from cold fermentation with lager years are not present to clash with sulfur compounds in hops.

“I’m tremendously excited about the style,” he said. “I think people are returning to bitter beer after a short hiatus.”

Mallett told a story about how long Bell’s founder Larry Bell may have been waiting to taste this beer.

“Larry Bell is an incredible creative force,” he began. “There was a point, this was like 12 years ago, when Larry came to me and said ‘I want to make this beer.’ What that means is ‘I want you to make this beer.’”

The beer was a lager, quite pale, with a distinctive hop character. “Specifically, he had this dream where he was hiking in the Michigan upper peninsula,” Mallet said. He came upon a waterfall cascading over rocks, and there were pine trees all around. “And this is what the beer should taste like, the crisp cold water and the pine trees,” Bell told Mallett. “And can you please make this beer?”

Mallett paused. “And I’m like, did they mention what kind of hops in the dream?”

The hops in Get Comfortable are Simcoe, Cascade, Strata, Amarillo, Mosaic and “Centennial from Bell’s selected lots.” A bit more about “Bell’s selected lots” in Hop Queries Vol. 5, No. 10, which I promise to mail by Monday.

Good news, Saaz hops lovers

Saaz hops

When June and July hailstorms hammered about 20 percent of the hop fields in the Czech Republic, and 750 acres of 12,278 planted were described as a total loss, nobody could have expected that the 2021 harvest would turn out to be the best in 25 years.

That’s what can result from a proper amount of rain and mild temperatures in July and August. Repeat after me: Beer is still an agricultural product.

Farmers in Czechia harvested 18.2 million pounds of hops (for perspective, that’s about as much as Americans grow of Citra alone), 40 percent more than 2020 and 34 percent more than the 10-year average. Average yield of 1,467 pounds per acre (American farmers average 1,900) was an all-time high.

The Saaz variety accounts for 80 percent of per cent of production, and the 14.7 million pounds harvested easily exceeded the 10-year average of 10.9 million pounds. In addition, alpha averaged 4 percent, compared to the 10-year average of 3.1 percent.

As a result, Bohemia Hop reports that as well as fulfilling all contracts for Saaz this year it will be possible to fulfill postponed volumes from previous crops, and satisfy additional demand.

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Monday beer & weed links: Gangier?

Landmark Tavern, Milwaukee

A quick bit of background. The genus Humulus (hops) belongs to the family Cannabaceae, which also includes cannabis (hemp and marijuana). Scientists long ago documented that hops and weed share some of the same terpenes — such a limonene, myrcene and pinene — that produce fruity, sometimes pungent, aromas and flavors.

But while it has been suspected that like hops, marijuana has sulfur-containing compounds it was not scientifically confirmed. Sulfur-containing compounds, that is thiols, are the “shiny new thing with regard to beer flavor.”

Earlier this year, a research team concluded that the compound 3-methyl-2-butene-1-thiol (MBT) is the primary source of “skunky” aroma in cannabis. MBT, of course, is responsible for skunkiness in light-struck beer.

Friday, Avery Gilbert reported in his always illuminating newsletter that a research team in Southern California has “identified a family of seven different sulfur-containing molecules that are the likely basis for the funkadelic ganja note of weed.” They included MBT.

The team also discovered that the concentration of sulfur-containing compounds ramped up dramatically in the final weeks before harvest and more during a week of curing. Probably not coincidentally, researchers have found that the amount of desirable thiols (and perhaps some less than desirable) also may increase exponentially as cones mature.

(I wrote about hop maturity for Brewing Industry Guide this month, and will have a bit more in this month’s Hop Queries, likely hitting email boxes tomorrow.)

SOMMELIER, CICERONE . . . GANGIER?
The initial stage of the Ganjier program, which costs $2,997, is just graduating its first round of experts from around the world. The training prepares them to assess ganja, or cannabis, products and make recommendations for customers, pairing products with activities and desired experiences. “We’re creating an entirely new class of cannabis professional. Something that doesn’t exist in the industry today, to be a voice for true quality.”

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Citra? Mosaic? Saaz? (Or Cascade?)

Saaz hops

Jeff Alworth posted a question yesterday from Atlanta (hey! we used to live there); more than one, in fact. So here are two I am thinking about: a) Is Citra/Mosaic becoming a marker of style in the way Saaz is in Czech pilsners or EKG in bitters? and b) Do [brewers] feel like the pairing has become so successful it’s constraining the style?

As my wife may occasionally point out when we are out in public and somebody asks me about hops, starting a conversation with me about hops can be a mistake. I often have a lot to say. Thoughts in my head already started vying for a position at the front of the line after I read Alworth’s tweet. Showing unusual restraint, I’m going to take a little time to organize them and include the result in the next Hop Queries [subscription free, sign up here].

Meanwhile, for homework:
– Because of the way Twitter threads threads you might have to click around to find all the responses.
– Read about Stone Brewing’s history with Cascade.
– Also, take some time for Evan Rail’s historical perspective of Saaz.

Monday beer links, courtesy (in part) of the Town Crier

Thinking about Monday beer links

True? Not true? Has hard seltzer brought us to this?

In his substack newsletter Fingers, Dave Infante reaches this conclusion:

“[Flavored Malted Beverages] aren’t just changing drinking habits. They (will) also swing beer business’ collective center of gravity away from brewers (“all about the liquid”) and back towards marketers. Or, to put it another way: from craft back to commodity.”

OK, collective center of gravity leaves room for beers left of the dial, but how much?

Also last week, I pointed to a podcast/transcript about “How Hops Got Sommified.” In it, there is some discussion about brewers prominently listing hop varieties.

“That is done under the guise of giving the drinker more information. In fact, you’re kind of making people feel dumb because they don’t know what to do with that information,” says Zach Geballe. “To me, it is analogous to this thing in wine that I find incredibly frustrating, when you go to a winery or event and all the person talking to you about the wine can do is recite the technical data of the wine.”

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