Corn vs. rice in beer: Been there, done that

A-B advertisement decrying use of corn

This particular advertisement appeared in Puck magazine Feb. 22, 1893 as part of a national campaign mounted by Anheuser-Busch. It does not mention that A-B used rice rather than corn, so it would seem that the rather constant referral to the use of rice in Super Bowl commercials that just aired is a step toward truth in advertising.

In all fairness, A-B long ago quit obscuring the fact that Budweiser was brewed with rice, as Bud Light is today. As soon at large breweries began using adjuncts in the final decades of the nineteenth century there were arguments about whether corn or rice was superior.

On January 30, 1881, well before A-B took aim on beers brewed with corn, the author of a full-page article in the Chicago Daily Tribune chose the side of rice in the rice versus corn debate. The author stated, “Corn beer is not a drink for Americans or Germans. It is good enough for the Spaniards, Greasers, Indians, and the mongrel breeds of South America.” Instead the author lauded the exceptional crisp taste that resulted with rice, and added, “for years the ‘blonde,’ or light colored beers have been fashionable and grown into public favor in America.” The author also suggested most breweries in Chicago used rice, while Milwaukee brewers used corn.

Anheuser-Busch founder Adolphus Busch, who ultimately had made the decision to brew Budweiser with rice, spoke often and bluntly about his distaste for beers made with corn. “Our main argument must be the quality of our product, that we do not use any corn,” he said in 1895. “While nearly every other beer brewed in this country, with hardly one exception, is made of cheaper material, viz: corn; that such a beer is not as wholesome or digestible as pure barley malt beer, the small addition of rice only improving it, and that the use of corn makes a very inferior article. The difference in the cost of manufacture between a barley malt and rice beer and corn beer is one dollar per barrel in favor of the latter, as a matter of course.”

Lingering matters

foam
The hurricane party’s windin’ down
and we’re all waitin’ for the end
And I don’t want another drink,
I only want that last one again

– James McMurtry, Hurricane Party

Revisiting long established flagships tastes of antiquity, success, failure, unfulfilled dreams of resurrection, and ultimately nostalgia. A place in time to momentarily revisit if only to remind you how far you’ve come but rarely a place to linger long.

-Andy Crouch, on Twitter

Flagship February#FlagshipFebruary has begun. The website is live, listing participating locations and various promotions. Stephen Beaumont has written about Samuel Adams Boston Lager, the first of daily essays. I’ll be contributing words about a specific beer later in the month. (Yes, I know what it is. But I took a blood oath, let Jay Brooks stick a needle in my finger and everything, to keep it to myself.)

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Monday beer briefing: Fuller’s, Fuller’s, Fuller’s, Natty Light

01.28.19, BEER AND WINE LINKS

This happened. And there was plenty of reaction on Twitter.

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Monday beer briefing: How much should you ask of beer?

01.21.19, BEER AND WINE LINKS

Why does craft beer think it can save the earth?
Thanks to Will Hawkes for helping me think about a question that popped to mind read last week. He writes, “A sense of purpose is part of what defines ‘craft beer’: it’s a campaign as much as a drink.” And he concludes (spoiler alert), “Why does craft beer think it can save the earth? Because that’s the entire point of craft beer.”

Those are pretty high expectations. The question that came to mind last week is, Why do we have these expectations for this thing people call craft beer? And why should they be different for breweries than for bakeries or bookstores or car repair garages? Not the first time I’ve wondered, and I still don’t have an answer. The question was provoked by Bryan Roth’s long examination of workplace harassment in breweries. Once again, jumping to the conclusion.

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Monday AM beer briefing: When The Wall blocks flow of new beers we’ll all drink flagships

01.14.19

I put together a new bookcase last week, which led to a certain amount of moving books around, a dangerous process because I have plenty of new books to read, yet here I was with Tom Wicker’s On Press from 1978 in my hands, and already thinking about journalism in general when Alan McLeod referred to beer journalism as a rare bird.

I don’t seek out journalism in the support of beer when I choose what to post here on Monday (FYI, my arbitrary rules). As McLeod wrote, writing about beer may fall into many different categories. It is not always clear which intersect with journalism, so not to belabor the point here I’ll suggest NiemanLab’s “Predictions for Journalism 2019” if you don’t have a copy of On Press. And I offer three examples of stories that may or may not accomplish something that is essential, that is making the important interesting rather than simply searching for purely interesting.

The Male Gueuze — Cantillon, Cabaret, and Context.
Beer is only part of this story. The male gaze and the associated objectification of women are evident in much of our culture. From the difference in marketing campaigns directed towards the two most common genders to the representation of women and the female form across advertising and pop culture, there’s plenty of evidence to support (John) Berger’s theory.

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