Stan Hieronymus

The Session #13 roundup: Organic beer

The SessionChris O’Brien has the complete round up for Session #13, and the turnout was impressive.

A lot of different beers, showing us just how deep the interest for organic beers runs, matched by good-to-read commentary about beer, brewing green and sustainability.

Despite all that plenty of outstanding beers didn’t get mentioned, which must mean something. There’s a mini-revolution going on in the Northwest, for instance. And how did Mothership Wit from New Belgium Brewing, which has been the poster brewery for green practices, not get consumed in the name of better beer blogging?

Better beer foam: Maybe it’s organic

Empty beer glassAnd what I failed to mention yesterday about Green Lakes Organic Ale is that it poured with a billowing head that left elegant lacing on the sides of the glass. That certainly added to an impression the beer was fresh and alive.

I thought of this yesterday evening while I was reading “Grape vs. Grain,” a book by Charles Bamforth due out in May. It is subtitled “A Historical, Technological, and Social Comparison of Wine and Beer.” Once I finish it and then “He Said beer, She Said Wine” I will review the two of them together.

Before wandering off on a discourse about what constitutes a good head on a beer and why it happens, Bamforth writes:

“There is no question that foams impacts drinker’s perception of a product. Show customers images of beer with good or poor foam and those with superior foam are declared to be better brewed, fresh, and better tasting. All this is based solely on appearance; not a drop has been drunk in making this evaluation.”

(In the interest of honesty, the photo is not Green Lakes. It’s a picture of nice beer lace I happen to have on hand. No, I do not carry it around in my wallet.)

The Session #13: Green Lakes Organic Ale

The SessionDon’t know how many of you frequent growers’ markets, so a quick description of how buying sweet corn works around here.

Quite often vendors will have the top of ears pealed back. This is so you can see how much damage the ear worm has done. When we get home we lop the portion the worm is still living in, soak the corn and cook it (often on the grill).

Does it taste great because it is organic, because it is fresh, maybe for both reasons?

I don’t know for sure. Just like a don’t know the answer to the next question. Should organic beer taste better, or at least somehow different?

A question I ask because the topic for The Session #13 today is organic beer. Host Chris O’Brien has the roundup.

So the beer I am contemplating this with is Green Lakes Organic Ale from Deschutes Brewery. A nice beer, though it wouldn’t make me give up Mirror Pond Pale Ale (to pick another from Deschutes). It gets points for making a fresh impression — logically or not, that’s something I expect from an organic beer.

Green Lakes Organic AleSome of that is shortbread sweetness on the palate, and much of it is a solid dose of hops (the brewery reports this beer is 45 IBU, meaning significant bitterness). It’s on the edge, or for some it has probably gone over, of being dishwater harsh. I like the combination of apricot/peach and pine aromas, plus a bit of spiciness that lasts through the finish.

It’s not clear all the hops are organic — in fact, I think not. There’s a whole ‘nother issue on if beers need to contain organic hops to be called organic, and let’s pass on that today. Deschutes does brag that the beer includes certified Salmon-Safe Sterling hops (perhaps explaining the spicy notes). That’s a good thing. Deschutes also went to the trouble of getting organic certification for the 50 barrel brewhouse which produces Green Lakes. Another good thing.

Back to what organic beer should taste like. For instance, Mateveza Yerba Mate, brewed with a South American energy tea under contract at Butte Creek (which makes its own organic beers) has definite herbal qualities leaving you with the thought This is different.

But beyond the obvious, there are other reasons to think organic ales might actually taste better. No doubt some companies, not just those selling beer, see consumer interest in all things organic as nothing more than a business opportunity. It seems more likely, however, that a brewer who goes to the trouble or a barley farmer who goes to the trouble doesn’t view organic as a gimmick. Effort tends to make things better.

In fact, don’t let brewer-owner Christian Ettinger at Hopworks Urban Brewery in Portland get started on the high quality of organic malt he has available to him without a full glass of beer in hand. You are going to be there for a while.

Speaking of which, I hope somebody found a HUB beer for today’s Session. Check the roundup to find out.

Look ma, more beer styles

This might not go over well in Belgium. I pick Belgium because that is notoriously the land of non-styles, and although the Brewers Association does not define any additional styles in the 2008 Beer Style Guidelines there are 11 new categories.

Before getting to the list, a few words from Carl Kins, a Belgian beer enthusiast who judges at the Great American beer festival and world beer Cup: “We Belgians do not like categorization that much.”

Also, I hope Ron Pattinson is looking on and has some comments on the Leipzig-style Göse (maybe even a post I can just link to). So I’ll also drop that in before the list of what’s new.

The original versions of this style of beer were spontaneously fermented, similarly to Belgian style gueuze/lambic beers. No current German Göse breweries introduce any other microorganism into the fermentation other than pure beer yeast strains. This style description is indicative of traditional and original Göse. Complexity of acidic, flavor and aroma typical of original-style Göse should be contributed by developing acidity through introducing appropriate wild yeast and bacteria into the fermentation.

Göse is enjoyed fresh, carbonated, and cloudy, with yeast character and may have evidence of continued fermentation activity. Light in color, negligible malt and hop character. Some versions may have the spicy character of added coriander. Salt (table salt) character is also permissible in low amounts. Character of lactic acid is evident. Horsey, leathery, earthy aroma and flavors contributed by Brettanomyces yeasts may be evident but have a very low profile, as this beer is not excessively aged. Overall complexity of flavors and aromas are sought. Balance between acidity, and yeast-enhanced, spice and refreshment is ideal.

Original Gravity (ºPlato):
1.040-1.046 (10-11.5 ºPlato)
Apparent Extract/Final Gravity (ºPlato):
1.008-1.012 (2-3 ºPlato)
Alcohol by Weight (Volume):
3.5-4% (4.4-5%)
Bitterness (IBU): 10-15
Color SRM (EBC): 3-6 (6-12 EBC)

Now, the other new stuff.

Fresh Hop Ale
Ales which are hopped exclusively with fresh and un-dried (“wet”) hops.

American-Belgo Styles Ales
These beers portray the unique characters imparted by yeasts typically used in fruity and big Belgian-style ales.

Belgian-Style Blonde Ale
Belgian-style blonde ales are characterized by low yet evident hop bitterness, flavor and sometimes aroma.

Australasian-Style Pale Ale
This style is a mild, pale, light-bodied ale with a color varying from light to amber. Hop bitterness and flavor range from very low to low.

Out of Category- Traditionally Brewed Beers
There are many excellent and popular beers that are brewed with traditional ingredients and processes, yet their character may vary from styles currently defined or included in these guidelines.

Wood- and Barrel- Aged Beer
Any lager, ale, or hybrid beer, either a traditional style or a unique experimental beer that has been aged for a period of time in a wooden barrel or in contact with wood.

Wood- and Barrel- Aged Pale to Amber Beer
Any classic style or unique experimental beer that has been aged for a period of time in a wooden barrel or in contact with wood.

Wood- and Barrel- Aged Dark Beer
Any classic style or unique experimental style of dark beer beer can be wood or barrel-aged for a period of time in a wooden barrel or in contact with wood.

Wood- and Barrel- Aged Strong Beer
Any strong classic style or unique, experimental style of beer can bee wood or barrel-aged for a period of time in a wooden barrel or in contact with wood.

Wood- and Barrel- Aged Sour Beer
A wood- or barrel- aged beer is any lager, ale, or hybrid beer, either a traditional style or a unique experimental beer that has been aged for a period of time in a wooden barrel or in contact with wood and has developed a bacterial induced natural acidity.

What if Amazon sold beer?

Shopping for beer on Amazon

Amazon is ready to start selling wine in the US, according to the Financial Times.

The company is looking to recruit a senior wine buyer, who would be responsible for “the acquisition of a massive new product selection” for its site.

According to Decanter, a UK-based wine publication, Amazon will work in partnership with wine.com.

FT reports how difficult it can be to sell wine online (and that it’s getting harder). The legal ramifications of selling beer would be the same, and the margins much more challenging. So don’t count on beer in the mix. (The cartoon above appeared in The New Yorker several years ago and usually is pinned to a corkboard beside my desk.)

Amazon declined to comment on its plans. It has said earlier it will add wine and beer to a pilot fresh grocery delivery service, Amazon Fresh, that it is currently operating only in its home city of Seattle.

Further reading: Vinofictions ponders this from many angles, but mostly wine. You can connect the dots back to beer.