Monday beer links: High hopes and dashed hopes

As seen at Blue Jay Brewing in St. Louis

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“Well, the first shot I got was in a dynamite truck
The driver kept me telling me his bad luck
As we swerved around the curves I began to shout
I said, hey-ey mister would you let me out?
I had my hopes up high, I never thought that I
Would ever wonder why I ever said good bye
I had my hopes up high

– Joe Ely, “I Had My Hopes Up High” (click to listen)

Another week of beer news and conjecture. Another week of high hopes and dashed hopes.

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QUOTE OF THE WEEK

“Even if you have really incredible beer and an incredible space and an incredible community, it’s still very challenging to operate during this time,” she said.

          — Massachusetts Brewers Guild executive director Katie Stinchon
From Why so many Mass. breweries are closing (and what you can do about it)

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LEDE OF THE WEEK

One Christmas Eve in the late 19th century, the family on the Hovland farm in Hardanger, Norway, was sitting down for a festive dinner. The food was on the table, the candles were lit, and the big wooden mug was full of beer.

Then, suddenly, enormous hands appeared between the logs from which their house was built, tilting one side of the house into the air. In the gap between the logs, they could see giant eyes staring at them, glittering in the candlelight.

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Monday beer links: There’s always a next next

Thomas Hardy's Ale cork from 1968

Early on in this business story about Tilray brands, Dave Infante mentions a third wave of craft beer. I understand. Sales of beer from non-mega breweries surged into the late 90s, backed off, surged again into the teens, and now the hunt is on, as Infante writes, for a new story.

Yes, but, let’s talk about generations rather than waves. How old were you when Sierra Nevada Brewing began selling beer? Dogfish Head? Creature Comforts? Or, put another way, how old was Great Lakes Brewing when Off Color Brewing opened? It’s been more than 18 years since Dogfish Head founder Sam Calagione and four like-minded brewers traveled to and around Belgium, sharing their beers.

Each of them began their brewing careers between 1993 and 1996. When they returned I asked them if Anchor Brewing Sierra Nevada Brewing represented the first generation of something new, what generation did they think they were part of. The answers:

Adam Avery, Avery Brewing: “I’d say I was second generation when I started out. Hog Heaven (barley wine first brewed in 1997) really put us on the map, but our sales were still declining between 1998 and 2000. Then we made The Reverend for the first time, we started doing the series of threes (all extreme beers) and now we’ve got 19 beers we’re brewing at least once a year, third generation stuff.”

Tomme Arthur, Lost Abbey Brewing: “I’ve been at this for 10 years now and I have always considered myself to be one of the first third generation guys. I say this because I am very comfortable in my surroundings; I know a ton of the second-generation guys very well (Dick Cantwell, Fal Allen, Phil Markowski, Garrett Oliver, el al.). I believe . . . they would all view me as a younger version of them. So, third generation it is.”

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Monday beer links: The CliffNotes edition

Tap handles at Structures Brewing in Bellingham, Washington

We left home early last week and are still traveling. The photo above was taken at Structures Brewing in Bellingham, Washington, where we had an excellent lunch and outstanding beers in their waterside restaurant. The tap handles are made of cattle bones.

Things seemed quiet in the beerblogosphere, giving me an excuse to link to this from The History of the Web. Beyond reminding us of the distinction between “free beer” and “freedom of speech” there is a call action.

“Put something on the web. And do it for free.

“This will require, first and foremost, your time. That is no small ask, time is the most valuable thing we have. But I can tell you one thing that’s become readily apparent to me in my decade of research of the web. It is only through people’s time that we’ve gotten to where we are.

“Here’s the thing about you. You know something nobody else does. You have a perspective that nobody else does. Information doesn’t have to just be information, it can be whatever you want it to be. Start a blog. Post an art project. Write a poem. Create a fan page. Contribute to a Wikipedia article you know something about. These little actions, these little contributions, are the best way we have to claw back to a truly free web.”

To this I will add a couple of quotes from “The Freaks Come Out to Write: The Definitive History of the Village Voice, the Radical Paper that Changed American Culture.”

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Monday beer links: Assembly required

Brayden Rawlinson at Fork and Brewer in Wellington, New Zealand

Bayden Rawlinson on the deck at Fork & Brewer (See Beer Name of the Week below)

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QUOTES OF THE WEEK

“Malting is about getting the barley to do what it wants to do in the field, but on our terms.”

          — Will Durrant, Bairds Malt
From Some Kind of Wizardry — Malting, Climate and the Future of Barley at Baird’s Malt

*****

People still “miss the good old days of being in a cowboy town where they’re used to having a $5 pint.”

          — Jaime Torres, taproom manager at Silva Brewing
From Why a Famed California Brewery is Going Under

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LEDE OF THE WEEK

I remember the first time I went to Banana Jam Café. It was 2011 and we were broke – a freelance writer and a Master’s student saving for a wedding. We used to walk straight past the bright yellow façade of the Kenilworth-based Caribbean restaurant to drink pints of Castle Lager for R12.50 in Hobnobs, the sports pub next door. Then one day we spotted a sign outside Banana Jam advertising free craft beer tastings.

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Still celebrated after all these years

Where to find Sierra Nevada Celebration in Denver, Colorado

Sierra Nevada Celebration isn’t too hard to find in Denver these days

Doug Veliky has written an ode to Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale that could be the chapter of a book. No reason to repeat much of what he wrote.

Instead, a bit of history, because obsessing over Celebration goes way back, at least in craft beer years. In 1995, Sierra Nevada brewed only 35 percent of the amount of Celebration they knew they could sell. Meeting demand for its core beers — Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, Porter and Stout — meant they wouldn’t be shipping any Celebration east of the Rockies or making almost any 1996 Bigfoot Barleywine.

“We can’t run out of pale ale,” marketing and sales director Steve Harrison said at the time. “It’s on menus in restaurants, it’s a permanent product in chain stores . . .”

As a result:

– Ken Ficherea, a Brooklyn accountant, used his frequent-flier miles to fly from JFK International
to San Francisco and back in the same day to pick up four cases of Celebration.

– Understanding that there were only 140 barrels of 1996 Bigfoot (compared to 11,00 in 1995, Ken Papai and Charlie Gow, two Bay Area residents, made two road trips to Sierra Nevada’s Chico brewer to buy Bigfoot.

In the first, they formed a three-car caravan with Dan Brown. “Dan couldn’t wait,” Papai said, and as a result, Brown was pulled over by a state police officer, although he didn’t receive a ticket.

Two weeks later, Papai and Gow realized they needed more beer — most of it was earmarked for friends across the country — and headed north again, this time in the same car.

After they filled the car with beer and had a few pints at the pub, they tried to take a shortcut during the 200-mile drive home, missed a turn and ended up stuck in the mud in a wildlife preserve. (Papai’s longer version of this story was quite entertaining, but the tl;dr version is that Gow passed a sobriety test, and the car was towed from the mud.)

Back in 1996, the year after Sierra Nevada had only 30 hours downtime and managed to produce 201,000 barrels, Harrison was not predicting how much Celebration would be available later in the year. “We will not contract brew, and we will not change the way we brew,” he said. “Just think how much noise they (in online beer forums) would make if we started contract brewing.”