Brewpubs and ‘beer cred’

First, at Hop Talk, Al suggests what he think are 5 essentials for a good brewpub, starting with “An old building, especially with a lot of exposed brick.”

Then at Beervana, Jeff Alworth discusses Beer Cred in Portland, Oregon.

Beer is a working-class beverage. Drinking beer is a working-class activity. Oregon brewers, who until ’99 had Henry’s as an example, got that. In the 80s, as brewpubs started opening up, they had a gritty look. Breweries were located in Portland’s industrial Northwest (part of which has been overtaken by the Pearl). Tap handles for good beer appeared in working-class bars. It is my suspicion that one of the reasons Oregonians took to microbrewed beer was because it retained it’s blue collar ethos.

And he compares that to “boutique breweries” in other parts of the country.

You simply cannot argue with the success of craft beer in Oregon (11% of volume vs. 4% in the rest of the country). In fact, you’ve got to wonder if the rest of us will ever catch up.

My point? I’m not sure I figured one out. I found these two interesting to read in the matter of only a couple of hours. In his, Alworth concludes, “Yes, that was a random posting.”

This must be as well.

12 thoughts on “Brewpubs and ‘beer cred’”

  1. Two of my favourite North American beer destinations are the Toronado and d.b.a., neither in any way fancy or “boutique.” But I also like, and partly own, a little place up here called beerbistro, which is elegant, pretty to look at and serves a kick-ass beer selection. (Well, kick-ass for Toronto, where our selection is somewhat limited by our provincial bureaucracy.) I don’t see how the two are or should be mutually exclusive.

    I like classy places and I like run down places, but most of all, I like good bars. I’ve found that beer destinations can fit into either category.

    Isn’t this whole “old building – beer cred – blue collar ethos” thing more than a little reminiscent of Pittsburgh columnist Mike Seate’s story from January, which we all pilloried endlessly? Is it any more legitimate when it comes from two of “our own?”

  2. I find Alworth’s be be interesting because Portland manages to stay ahead of the curve. Maybe I just smile and go there more often.

    It’s also worth remembering that it is home to Higgins Restaurant, which is not blue collar and almost as outstanding as beerbistro ;>)

  3. I also thought about Higgins, but felt my comment was already approaching Jay Brooksian length. (That’s a joke, Jay. Relax, don’t worry and have a pilsner.) Likewise, I agree wholeheartedly with your comment on Hop Talk about food being a factor in any truly great brewpub. I find it extraordinarily annoying when I’m forced to sacrifice the food side of my palate in order to exercise the beer side, as occurs all too often at brewpubs.

  4. Yeah, what the Canadian said. (Especially the part about Jay relaxing, not worrying, and having a pilsner.)

    I hate getting told that brewpubs must have “pub grub.” I like burgers, I like good pizza, but I’m damned if that’s all I want. That’s sports bar thinking. I’m sick of geeks freaking about a brewpub that’s “too fancy.” I WANT OPTIONS, dammit, not cookie-cutter.

    I want small brewpub joints, I want big brewpub barbecue houses, I want snazzy brewpub jazzhouses, I want thumping brewpub beer gardens, I want hearty brewpub steakhouses, I want solid brewpub Tex-Mex roadhouses… I want it all — all!! with fresh-brewed beer.

    Can we stop with the “we’re all brothers in beer, man” attitude? One size does not fit all. That’s why we started and signed on to this whole thing in the first place, remember?

  5. And a good wine list if it is a place with a broad menu.

    Chama River, one of my locals, has an excellent wine list. I’ve never had wine there because the beer is really good – but it’s nice to have that option.

    And – just for you, Lew – some say the best ribs in town.

  6. And just to beat that dead horse right into the ground…

    What’s the point of talking about how beer has the complexity and flavour to pair with all sorts of food — hello, Natalie! — if all our brewpubs are going to offer is standard pub food? In order for craft beer to continue its development as a category, it’s going to have to be offered in all sorts of settings and with all sorts of food.

  7. What’s ironic about the Mike Seate linking is that Pittsburgh has probably the best brewpub you all could ask for. Gorgeous setting, great beer and dynamic…world class food.

    Maybe Mike’s never been?

    LOL!

    Cheers!

  8. Hey, just in time for no one to read my comments! Ah well.

    Isn’t this whole “old building – beer cred – blue collar ethos” thing more than a little reminiscent of Pittsburgh columnist Mike Seate’s story from January, which we all pilloried endlessly? Is it any more legitimate when it comes from two of “our own?”

    Didn’t read Seate and didn’t participate in the discussion. But based on the comments here, no one actually read what I had written. I invite you to–it was a little more nuanced than you seem to imagine. The actual thrust of the post was, in fact, to argue that despite the soul-deadening atmosphere of a chain brewery, if the beer is good, we should be agnostic about ambiance. My historical note was a comment on the culture of Portland and why our local Rock Bottom is routinely ignored by fans of good beer.

    If you devote seven comments to commentary about a post, good to read it first and critique what was written. Stephen, I know you’d appreciate that about your own writing.

  9. Hi Jeff,

    Thanks for stopping by, and please don’t take offense when the comments here sometimes are more related to previous conversations than the post in hand.

  10. Jeff;

    I did read both your and Al’s posts before I commented, and in your case was referring to the people who gave you grief behind the scenes, as you say. But then I went an screwed up in trying to be all poetic with the “two of our own” line. My apologies.

  11. I read your post Jeff…and I’m wondering “Why do you personally think Portland snubs the Rock Bottom, if the beer is good?”.

    Atmosphere alone?

    OK…who does support the place if it’s not the TRUE beer lovers? Clearly they’re selling enough beer (and food) to stay in biz.

    There’s a local John Harvard’s here in CT (there used to be 2 but one closed, sadly) with your typical cookie cutter atmosphere…but the beers are great and the brewer is very approachable for discussion. Not wholly supported by geeks…but…I just think it’s a stigma with “chains” for them. Nothing to do with atmosphere. Even if Vinnie Cilurzo brewed there.

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