{"id":212,"date":"2007-05-03T14:09:24","date_gmt":"2007-05-03T21:09:24","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/is-your-brewer-an-artist\/"},"modified":"2016-01-18T13:44:58","modified_gmt":"2016-01-18T19:44:58","slug":"is-your-brewer-an-artist","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/is-your-brewer-an-artist\/","title":{"rendered":"Is your brewer an artist?"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>It starts with a quote from Louis Nizer, the famous trial lawyer and author. He said:<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>Don Russell paraphrased Nizer to begin a column about <a href=\"http:\/\/www.joesixpack.net\/columnArchives\/2007\/030907.htm\">making a case for extreme beer<\/a>. Along the way he wrote:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Beerwise, the most inspired brewers are not just craftsmen, they are artists.<\/p>\n<p>If there is an avant-garde movement among these brewers, then it is extreme beer.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>And later, &#8220;Session beers, I&#8217;m afraid, are Norman Rockwells.&#8221; This led to a flurry of discussion at <a href=\"http:\/\/lewbryson.blogspot.com\/2007\/03\/sbp-are-session-beers-lcd.html\">Seen Through a Glass<\/a> about *xtr*m* beers and session beers, but only a little about brewers as artists.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.appellationbeer.com\/images\/20070503-artisan.jpg\" alt=\"Brewer at work\" class=\"alignleft\"\/>So what about that? And who to ask? How about brewers? I printed out part of Russell&#8217;s column and took it to the recent Craft Brewers Conference in Austin. I showed it to a dozen brewers along with another old saying that farmers make wine and engineers make beer.<\/p>\n<p>I asked them to choose one of four words to describe themselves: artist, artisan, engineer or farmer.<\/p>\n<p>Eight chose artisan, four chose artist. Most also said it depends on how you read the definitions.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;Since artisan essentially takes in artist, then artisan is appropriate,&#8221; said Garrett Oliver of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.brooklynbrewery.com\/\">Brooklyn Brewery<\/a>. <\/p>\n<p>Matt Van Wyk of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.flossmoorstation.com\/\">Flossmoor Station Brewing<\/a>, a school teacher before he was a brewery, suggested a fifth choice. &#8220;Some brewers are just producing a product for profit,&#8221; he said. &#8220;I lean toward artisan.&#8221; <\/p>\n<p>Steve Parkes, the brewer for <a href=\"http:\/\/www.ottercreekbrewing.com\/\">Otter Creek<\/a> and Wolaver&#8217;s Organic Ales, picked artist, &#8220;By this definition.&#8221; Parkes is also the owner and lead instructor of the American Brewers Guild. Does that mean he&#8217;s in the business of training artists?<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;No, artisans. The artistic component needs to come from them,&#8221; he said. &#8220;I can&#8217;t train that. I can give them the tools, but I can&#8217;t teach inspiration.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>Tony Simmons (call him an artisan) of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.pagosabrewing.com\/\">Pagosa Springs Brewing<\/a> told an interesting story. He was in a class at <a href=\"http:\/\/www.siebelinstitute.com\/\">Siebel Institute<\/a> with a woman who worked at Miller Brewing. Out of curiosity, not intent, he asked her what it would take for him to get a job brewing at Miller.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;You couldn&#8217;t,&#8221; she told him. &#8220;We hire engineers and train them to brew our way.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>John Graham of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.churchkeybrewing.com\/\">Church Key Brewing<\/a> was part of the conversation. &#8220;On tours I tell people it is half heart, half science. You have to follow the rules,&#8221; he said. &#8220;I&#8217;m definitely not an engineer.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>We decided we might have to track down a German brewer to find an engineer. But that&#8217;s wouldn&#8217;t be Eric Toft, a native of Wyoming who now brews at <a href=\"http:\/\/www.brauerei-schoenram.de\/\">Private Landbrauerei Sch&ouml;nram<\/a> in Bavaria.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;I got into this because I thought it was artisinal and connected to agriculture,&#8221; he said. &#8220;You still need to be an engineer to run a brewery.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>Matt Brynildson of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.firestonebeer.com\/\">Firestone-Walker Brewing<\/a> made it clear he envies Toft. &#8220;I would call myself an artisan, but I totally wish it could be more farmer,&#8221; he said nodding toward Toft. &#8220;Or to be as connected as he is.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>Toft regularly visits farms where his hops are grown and others that produce barley for his malt. All are less than 200 kilometers from the brewery. He uses a single barley variety &#8211; Barke &#8211; without regard to yield or how easy it is to grow (always a consideration for malt companies), paying farmers more if necessary to get what he wants (flavor).  <\/p>\n<p>Toft was in Austin helping the Association of German Hop-Growers and the Halltertau Hop-Growers Association. They advertise hops as the &#8220;spirit of beer,&#8221; but I&#8217;ve also seen hops referred to as the heart of beer or the soul of beer. Others call malt the soul of beer.<\/p>\n<p>Does your beer even have a soul? Do you care? The answers could be <em>no<\/em>, and no. That&#8217;s fine. But I suspect if you said <em>yes<\/em> the fact it is brewed by artists or artisans might be as important as the ingredients used.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>It starts with a quote from Louis Nizer, the famous trial lawyer and author. He said: &#8220;A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an &#8230; <a title=\"Is your brewer an artist?\" class=\"read-more\" href=\"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/is-your-brewer-an-artist\/\" aria-label=\"More on Is your brewer an artist?\">Read more<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[17,292],"tags":[205,403,322,400,401,402],"class_list":["post-212","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-beers-of-conviction","category-musing","tag-eric-toft","tag-john-graham","tag-matt-brynildson","tag-matt-van-wyk","tag-steve-parkes","tag-tony-simmons"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p4wTn-3q","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/212","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=212"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/212\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":13698,"href":"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/212\/revisions\/13698"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=212"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=212"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=212"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}