{"id":18578,"date":"2024-10-18T06:14:43","date_gmt":"2024-10-18T12:14:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/?p=18578"},"modified":"2024-10-18T06:14:43","modified_gmt":"2024-10-18T12:14:43","slug":"global-history-of-brewing-times-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/global-history-of-brewing-times-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Global history of brewing . . . times 2"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>In the introduction to \u201cHopped Up,\u201d author Jeffrey Pilcher begins, \u201cIn 2009, the PureTravel website imagined a United Nations of brewing on a map titled \u2018Around the World in 80 Beers.\u2019\u201d I\u2019m going to pretend that instead he referred to another book about beer new to the market, Martyn Cornell\u2019s \u201cAround the World in 80 Beers.\u201d Both offer a \u201cglobal history of brewing,\u201d but, no surprise, in different ways. <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kfi.jpm.mybluehost.me\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/20241018-hoppedup.jpg\" alt=\"&quot;Hopped Up&quot; book cover\" width=\"279\" height=\"425\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-18579\" srcset=\"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/20241018-hoppedup.jpg 279w, https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/20241018-hoppedup-197x300.jpg 197w, https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/20241018-hoppedup-98x150.jpg 98w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 279px) 100vw, 279px\" \/>First up, \u201cHopped Up.\u201d Pilcher uses the \u201cAround the World\u201d map, which features each country\u2019s most iconic brand, to illustrate the ubiquity of pale lager. In his words:<\/p>\n<p>&#8211; In narrating the history of beer\u2019s commodification and the triumph of pale lager, \u201cHopped Up\u201d takes a global perspective.<\/p>\n<p>&#8211; \u201cHopped Up\u201d explores the social patterns of gender, race, and class that shaped the commodification of beer.<\/p>\n<p>&#8211; The book examines taste as an agent in shaping the commodification of beer, both as an independent sensory experience and as an instrument of social distinction.<\/p>\n<p>&#8211; The book examines taste as an agent in shaping the commodification of beer, both as an independent sensory experience and as an instrument of social distinction.<\/p>\n<p><!--more--><\/p>\n<p>&#8211; \u201cHopped Up\u201d shows that craft styles such as India Pale Ale, London porter, and even Belgian sours were likewise products of industrial modernity. Although microbrewers have imagined themselves as countercultural and anti- capitalist, the quest for profit and expansion has often supplanted the original communitarian focus on local pubs and homebrewing. The resulting synthesis of commodity and craft provided a capitalist beer for the twenty-first century.<\/p>\n<p>That &#8212; a history that begins from the get-go and spans the globe &#8212; is a lot to pack into 249 pages. Pilcher is a food historian, whose previous book was \u201cPlanet Taco: A Global History of Mexican Food.\u201d He collected information found in 10 archival resources and hundreds of books and articles. This is the first book I\u2019ve read that draws from the <a href=\"https:\/\/allaboutbeer.com\/article\/preserving-a-beer-legacy\/\">Michael Jackson Collection<\/a> at Oxford Brookes University.<\/p>\n<p>It is an academic tome. That\u2019s not stated as a criticism, but as a fact. It is a resource that has almost 50 pages of notes 9after 249 pages of prose) that, for those interested, lead to much more to read. There is a theme that runs throughout, and a point of view evident in the list above. However, there is no room for stories such as the time Sam Calagione rigged up a plastic bucket and vibrating electronic football game he bought at the Salvation Army to add hops at regular intervals for the first batch of 60 Minute IPA he brewed at Dogfish Head. <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kfi.jpm.mybluehost.me\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/20241018-80beers.jpg\" alt=\"&quot;Around the World in 80 Beers&quot; book cover\" width=\"286\" height=\"425\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-18580\" srcset=\"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/20241018-80beers.jpg 286w, https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/20241018-80beers-202x300.jpg 202w, https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/20241018-80beers-101x150.jpg 101w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 286px) 100vw, 286px\" \/>\u201cAround the World in 80 Beers\u201d does not have notes, an index or a bibliography, but you can trust it was researched at least as meticulously. In Cornell\u2019s words:<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThe idea of ATWI80B &#8212; and I believe it\u2019s a unique one &#8212; is that each chapter starts by looking at one contemporary beer, across more than 40 different countries, from Norway to New Zealand and China to Brazil, and uses that beer as a springboard to talk about the history of the beer style that beer represents, the history of brewing in that country and the history of that brewery.\u201d <\/p>\n<p>For instance, in writing about Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, which he calls \u201cthe most influential beer since Josef Groll unveiled his pale lager in the Czech town of Pilsen 138 years earlier,\u201d he discusses the evolution of modern hops and the importance of Cascade. He even <a href=\"https:\/\/hopqueries.com\/archives\/a-thiol-checklist-hop-names-included\/\">introduces readers to 4-mercapto-4-methylpentan-2-one<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Regular readers of Cornell\u2019s blog, <a href=\"https:\/\/zythophile.co.uk\/\">Zythophile<\/a>, will recognize he\u2019s <em>been there, done that<\/em> when selecting beers to profile. That includes four from South America, which is <\/em>really big<\/em> and where exciting beer things are happening that deserve more attention. <\/p>\n<p>One of them is from Ecuador, and was one of the <a href=\"https:\/\/beerandbrewing.com\/critic-s-list-stan-hieronymus-s-best-in-2022\/\">best beers I tasted in 2022<\/a>. As the founders of Cerveceria Qutie\u00f1a point out, Chicha Vieja is \u201ca modern way to tell the story of who we are\u201d as well as the one about the ancient drink chicha. When we shared a bottle at the brewery, &#8220;Farmhouse Ales&#8221; author Phil Markowski said it would have been easy to imagine we were in Belgium drinking gueuze. I concurred.<\/p>\n<p>Alles Blau Catharina Sour is equally interesting, but in a different way. Catharina Sour is a modern invention, one that blends the German heritage of Blumenau, Brazil, with the astonishing range of unique fruits found in the region. The style is a reminder that what we call beer is always evolving, and that what begins as local can end up global. The best beer we had last month at Galway Bay Brewing in Ireland was a Catharina Sour. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In the introduction to \u201cHopped Up,\u201d author Jeffrey Pilcher begins, \u201cIn 2009, the PureTravel website imagined a United Nations of brewing on a map titled \u2018Around the World in 80 Beers.\u2019\u201d I\u2019m going to pretend that instead he referred to another book about beer new to the market, Martyn Cornell\u2019s \u201cAround the World in 80 &#8230; <a title=\"Global history of brewing . . . times 2\" class=\"read-more\" href=\"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/global-history-of-brewing-times-2\/\" aria-label=\"More on Global history of brewing . . . times 2\">Read more<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[8],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-18578","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-books"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p4wTn-4PE","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/18578","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=18578"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/18578\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":18585,"href":"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/18578\/revisions\/18585"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=18578"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=18578"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/appellationbeer.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=18578"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}