Dank. Dankitydankdankdank

Sierra Nevada Dank Little Thing
The subject line on an email from Sierra Nevada Brewing about the newest edition to its hazy IPA series reads, “Say high to our new Dank IPA.” Not “hello,” not “hi.”

And the headline atop the message within reads, “Stop & smell the hops. Wait, is that . . .”

Here is the entire message, with a couple more winks and nods, “For the latest Limited Edition in our Hazy IPA Series, we rolled up a mix of sticky, floral, and tropical hops into a Dank Little Thing. Amarillo, Chinook, and CTZ varieties help pack that resinous flavor, while botanical terpenes spark an aroma that fills a room. Stash it while you can because Dank Little Thing is only here through February 2024.”

Oh, those terpenes. Consider what Kate Bernot wrote about Seventh Son Pineapple Express in Craft Beer and Brewing. “Once you get a whiff of this beer, you understand why the brewery has to say explicitly that it contains no THC. This pineapple sour is brewed with cannabis terpenes that are, yes, pungent, but they’re also thoughtfully integrated with the fruit and acidity. There’s a pineapple-core earthiness that passes the baton directly to the minty terpenes before the two elements dance back and forth across the tongue. I’ve never tasted a beer like it.”

Humulus lupulus (hops) and cannabis are part of the larger Cannabaceae family. Many of the same botanical terpenes are found in both, as well as many others plants (for instance, basil and lavender, a few of many profiled in “Brewing Local”). That’s a topic for another Wednesday.

Right now, consider the name Sierra Nevada chose for this release. Not everybody agrees that “dank” is a proper hop aroma descriptor. But who doesn’t understand what it implies?

Dank has been part of the hop sensory lexicon at Yakima Chief Hops for years, explained YCH sensory and brewing research manager Tessa Schilaty.

“We define it as smelling like cannabis, which is on the ASBC lexicon under herbaceous. We wanted to avoid having the word cannabis appear on our product descriptions, as we do a lot of work internationally with countries where cannabis is both frowned upon and very illegal,” she wrote in an email.

“People use the word dank to describe a variety of aromas, but most of them appear elsewhere on our ballot, for example musty (which we have under earthy) or onion/garlic (which is its own category). It therefor made sense for us to use the word dank to define something which was not elsewhere represented on our ballot, and which is one of the common uses of the term by brewers.”

In contrast, there is the American Society of Brewing Chemistry list of terms to describe the aroma of hops. Included are 107 words. As Schilaty points out, cannabis is filed under herbaceous. Dank is not to be found.

That did not limit the team at Sierra Nevada in charge of new beer names.

A Better Burden: Forest & Farm, indeed

Narrow Path Brewing beer menu

The description of A Better Burden on the menu at Narrow Path Brewing outside of Cincinnati lists the ingredients, then two words: Forest & Farm.

“Those words are my attempt to help the ones tasting the beer to envision and place themselves within a setting,” Narrow Path owner/brewer Chad Powers explained. “That description is a hopeful reminder to folks that this beer has true origins in our natural world and that the resulting liquid is as much an offering from the land as it is from the brewer.”

A Better Burden is on my “Best in 2023” list in the current issue of Craft Beer & Brewing magazine. I expect you understand that means it was one of the beers I enjoyed most from a universe of choices I had not tasted previously. Otherwise, the “best” list would be scattered with well known, and deserving, beers such at Rochefort 8. Nine of the 10 beers described were new to me; the exception being Urban Chestnut Stammtisch. (The collection of contributors’ lists is also available in podcast form.)

I’m writing about A Better Burden because 70 words in the magazine did not seem like enough about this combination of smoke and cedar that I find sublime, and many other people may not. A Better Burden is a collaboration between Narrow Path and Nine Giant Brewing, and Powers and Mike Albarella have brewed it together at Narrow Path the past three years.

They had both read ”Historical Brewing Techniques” by Lars Marius Garshol right when the book became available. They wrote the initial recipe together and have subtly changed it each year. The base malt and the alder wood smoked malt come from Sugar Creek Malt Co. in Indiana. “We knew that Caleb (Michalke) had built a Såinnhus, and we wanted to use ingredients that were as local as possible and that were produced as traditionally as possible,” Powers said.

They chose his Stjørdal malt knowing it would be the most polarizing ingredient in the grain bill. Smoke is particularly assertive in this batch.

Finding cedar for Narrow Path Brewing A Better Burden

Powers harvests the cedar every year from the same hillside across the river in Kentucky. “A good friend of mine is an ecologist at Eastern Kentucky University, and he oversees several conservancies across the state,” Powers said. The friend plants seeds while Powers cuts off the ends of branches. “I like to do it when the weather is cool and brisk but also when there’s enough sun to feel some warmth on my face.”

The first year they fermented the beer with a commercially available Voss kveik strain. The last two years we’ve used strains that were not, until recently, commercially available. Caleb Ochs-Naderer, now the program chair of the brewing science program at Cincinnati State, was brewing at Nine Giant when they brewed the beer the second and third time.

He has been a long-time kveik fan/evangelist, and traveled to a homebrew gathering in Norway several years ago. He brought back a catalog of dried kveik that he stored in his freezer. “We selected a strain called Stalljen because it was described as saison-like without any phenolic notes. We rehydrated the yeast from their dried flaked state and fermented in the upper 80s to low 90s,” Powers said.

Cedar for A Better Burden arriving at Narrow Path Brewing“I think the thing I love most about the beer is that it certainly makes me feel something, often several things. The time and effort spent harvesting the cedar with my friend realigns my heart to a deeper connection and purpose in brewing.

“I can feel the sun on my face as I’m reaching to trim a branch in the cool autumn air. I can feel the wind on my face as I give thanks to the grove of trees that play such an important part in the entire experience. Something in me awakens each time I sip.”

(Nine Giant often takes names of beers from song lyrics. Powers was looking through Nordic and Viking poems/chants and found a translation of Hávamál that had the phrase “a better burden” in it. “That idea and the specific turn of phrase resonated with me.”)

Monday a.m. beer links, morality be d****d

Cask beer at Hogshead Brewery in Denver

A decade ago, Asheville, North Carolina, provided New Belgium Brewing with $3.5 million in tax reimbursements as part of incentives to locate its second brewery not far from downtown. The city of Vista, California, has made breweries an important part of its economic development plan.

There are plenty more examples of cities recruiting breweries. But after reading “One polarizing brewery, six figures’ worth of tax incentives” you might pause and ask yourselves who much is it worth to you to have a brewery built in your home town.

Simply for pleasure . . .
Wandering the backstreets of Cologne in search of interesting boozers. “Might there be another Lommi or two lurking, round the back of a laundrette, near a discount supermarket, where the trams turn round?” Cue Tom Russell and “Back Streets of Love.”

. . . or not
The Beer Nut pulls no punches. “I find it difficult to believe that even the most ardent haze-pilled fanboi will enjoy what’s on offer here.”

Fortunately, there is always a next beer. “But much as it shouldn’t work, it’s absolutely beautiful, showing a lot of the joyous features of export-strength stout, but with lots of fresh hop topnotes. I’ll take another one like this, please.”

You might also enjoy

Fonio Rising
Brooklyn Brewery is releasing a beer made with the West African grain fonio.

“No fertilizers, no irrigation, no pesticides, no insecticides, no fungicides—- nothing. Whether you look at it from an environmental perspective, a social benefit perspective for the farming communities, or from a brewing perspective, fonio is so good that it seems like someone must have just made it up,” said brewmaster Garrett Oliver. “But fonio is real, and Africa grows 700,000 tons of it every year. Fonio is easy to brew with and gives beautiful flavors to beer.

“This is very exciting stuff, and I can easily envision a future where fonio is widely used as an everyday brewing ingredient, bringing vast benefits to brewers, beer drinkers, farmers and the planet.”

Yes to brewers using a sustainable grain grown near where they make beer. Shipping it all over the world? Not quite as sustainable.

The Legacy of Double Diamond Burton Pale Ale
To which I will add, in the mid-90s in the Midwest many “good beer bars” served a Double Diamond, which was imported from the UK. At the Union Jack Pub in Indianapolis they pulled it from a tap handle that suggested it was a cask ale (it was not). Its most prominent feature, no matter where you tried it, was diacetyl.

What’s So Special About Extra Special Bitter, Anyway?
An aside, Double Diamond was often billed, again in the Midwest, an ESB (it was not even close). If ESB is to be more than an oddity drinkers who crave it should know there are locations where they will find it on all the time. My top three choices in Denver-ish are: Sawtooth Ale (granted, a bitter, but as Left Hand Brewing boasts, it is “timeless”) at Left Hand Rino; Chosen Family ESB at Lady Justice Brewing; and cask-conditioned Hogshead Brewery Chin Wag (pictured at the top along with Gilpin Black Gold, a porter).

Pale ales, American IPA & Hazy IPA; that’s it?
Jeff Alworth asks “what were the watershed beers that transformed American beer in this craft era?” Not to be a contrarian, but I prefer to spend time considering the ones he calls the “character actors of the beer world.” Find me a beer that is as interesting as the work of everyone on this list.

A Beer’s Birthplace Is No Longer the Be-All and End-All
Moving on, and being a contrarian . . . Drinkers might be drawn to the beers mentioned in this story because of their import cache, but they are better because they are brewed locally. Thus, birthplace matters.

12 Mistakes You’re Making When Visiting A Brewery
AI written? Consider, for instance, No. 2, Dressing inappropriately. “As a rule of thumb, it’s a good idea to dress for a brewery as if you were dressing for a construction site. While you won’t need to bring your own hard hat and high-vis jacket – breweries tend to provide these if it’s considered necessary – durable, closed-toe shoes with a grippy sole are a must if you’re going for a walk on the brewery floor.” And you just wanted to sit down and enjoy a beer.

One alcoholic drink can shift your morality.
Who finances research like this? This one “discovered intoxicated participants had a greater willingness to consider engaging in impure behaviour, such as attending an event where participants act like animals, ‘crawling around naked and urinating on stage.'”

Back to your Monday morning. Have a productive week. I’ll be out of the country much of it and am not certain if I will be posting links next Monday.