Finding a place for Old School (whatever that is)

Michael Jackson visits Louisville in 1994

David Pierce, Michael Jackson, Buck Rissler and Roger Baylor. The photo was taken in 1994 when Jackson was touring the United States researching a book that was never written. You can find the story here.

Roger Baylor proudly remembers that Michael Jackson called him a polemicist.

The first time Daria and I wrote about Rich O’s in New Albany, Indiana, in January of 1995 the place had three draft beers, was a “Lite-Free Zone” and encouraged cigar smoking. One tap poured Guinness, one Pilsner Urquell and the “middle tap” rotated. Baylor let customers know in advance what was coming and how many kegs were to be available. By the end of the year, when we compiled our “Beer Travelers Guide,” Rich O’s was up to five taps. Sierra Nevada joined Guinness and Pilsner Urquell as a regular and there were two rotating taps.

By 1999, when we assembled “The Beer Lover’s Guide to the USA” Rich O’s had well-chosen 20 taps.

Twenty-one years ago, when I wrote about what was going on inside of some bars in the days after the terrorist attacks commemorated yesterday, he was the first one I called for a column that began:

In the hours immediately after terrorists flew airplanes into the Pentagon and New York City’s Twin Towers on Sept. 11, Rich O’s Public House publican Roger Baylor paced anxiously between his pub and Pizza Time, the restaurant/bar next door that he also owns. Pizza Time has television sets; his pub does not.

“I was freaking out, basically,” he said. He began to think of the many people with whom he wanted to talk, who he should call. “Then I realized that I didn’t have to. I thought, ‘They’ll all be in here.’” Sure enough, as shifts ended regulars began to drift in. “There are a group of us, well I’m always here, we all sort of appear at the same time,” Baylor said.

The regulars discovered that Baylor had put a television on the counter up front – the first time a TV had been in the bar in three years. Those who wanted the latest news could get it, then find seats out of television range. “People would retreat back into the bar to talk, to get away from these images for a while,” Baylor said. “The first few days there was only one thing (the terrorist attacks) that they talked about.”

I offer this to provide context to a post last week in which Baylor contemplates retirement. He is younger than I am, and that is something I certainly haven’t figured out. Reading it I was reminded that what we expect beer might taste like has changed in 1995, but how we expect it might enhance the quality of our day to day hasn’t. Also, that while it may be cool to be a publican, it is also kind of shitty.

We can do better, right?
The story brilliantly delivers what the headline, “Women’s Work — What the Story of a 17th-Century Brewster Can Teach Us About 21st-Century Brewery Ownership,” promises.

It asks questions.

“What barriers, for example, did women like (Sarah)Frankes face when entering the 17th-century beer trade? How common were such brewsters’ experiences, and how did their work integrate into their larger, complex worlds? And most importantly, is this past really in the past, or is it something 21st-century women in beer have inherited?

“Equally, we can ask difficult questions about gender and brewery ownership today. Why are so many women brewery owners today married to their co-owner? What happens when a single woman who wants to open a brewery seeks funding? And if we ask you, right now, to picture an archetypical brewmaster, how many of you imagine a cis man?”

And more questions.

“But in excavating what we can of these histories, contemporary champions of women in beer must ask what conditions would enable even greater participation for women—especially those with fewer financial resources—to continue in the spirit of (Mary Lisle) and Frankes. The industry is eager for women to participate, but larger socioeconomic forces have always to some degree constrained the choices women are able to make about business ownership.”

Related: “Women Entrepreneurs Who Have Launched Their Own Beer Industry Businesses.”

You might also enjoy
– After this story about TRU Colors Brewing this news doesn’t seem like much of a surprise.

The best beer cities in the United States? Happy to see Milwaukee so high, but wondering why St. Louis can’t crack a list that has Dayton Beach at No. 12.

Why are beer growlers more expensive than six-packs?

A headline Gussie Busch would not have understood
Heineken buys out Led Zeppelin son’s craft brewery

‘Or are you unintentionally shutting them out?’

Mark Dredge has written about 4,500 words, which is a lot, at Good Beer Hunting about beer flavor wheels, which he creates and sells, and tasting tools. He is correct that language is a weapon some people use to keep the beer they drink exclusive. You know if you know, but, sorry, you don’t know.

If you don’t have time for 4,500 words, go directly to what Garrett Oliver says, including, “when you’re speaking to an audience you have to think in terms of, are you bringing them into something, allowing them to see it, smell it, taste it, in their own minds, or are you unintentionally shutting them out?”

Re-reading what Jamie Goode wrote about if anyone still needs wine writers, I realized his story and Dredge’s are both for members of Club Wine or Club Beer, as the case may be. They are in the trade or otherwise invested in wine/beer. Goode wrote, “As Hugh Johnson once said, wine needs words. Wine needs people to communicate about it, because it is a complex area, and also a deeply interesting area. If it’s reduced to just the taste of a liquid in a glass, we are all doomed.”

If you, non-trade member, want to recommend a beer to a friend you don’t need to talk about if it tastes of pitanga, carambola or acerola. You can simply say, “I like it.” Or perhaps hand them a glass.

I’m in Ecuador today — that is, if you are reading this Aug. 22 — and in a few hours will be talking to brewers about biotransformations and thiols. Parting gifts will include a list of hop descriptors compiled by the American Society of Brewing Chemists.
You’ll notice the list of aromas/flavors are ones drinkers will already know from elsewhere. We rely on past experiences to suggest what to expect in new ones.

It would be much easier were we like the Jahai, a tribe of hunter-gatherers in Thailand. Their language has more than a dozen words to describe smells, none of which relate to the smell of any particular object. The word for “edible” is applied to gasoline, smoke, bat droppings, some millipedes and the wood of wild mango trees. But this works for them. When researchers gave a standard test to Jahai, they found that the Jahai tended to be quick and consistent in describing the smell, even though the actual odors used were unfamiliar to them.

It’s one thing to suggest aromas and flavors a compound such as 3-mercaptohexan-1-ol (3MH) may add to a beer, it is another to taste it. Because, as those of you who have read “For the Love of Hops” may remember, we humans sometimes have different genetic barcodes when it comes to aroma perception. So rather than handing out adjectives I’ve brought along a beer that “over expresses” 3MH. I’m looking forward to hearing the descriptors attendees come up with.

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Everybody and their grandad loves Punk IPA.

“The cool thing about beer is that it’s different colors, different flavors.”

The $15 (AU) pint?

“Drink up,” suggests Japanese government.

See you when the summer’s through*

Where in the beer world?

Remember “Where in the beer world?” Time to play again. The answer will be posted in this month’s Hop Queries. Consider that a hint.

Almost every link I saved during the past week to post here you will find at a Good Beer Blog or from Boak & Bailey. That gives me an excuse to jump the gun on my plan to put That Was The Beer Week That Was (TWTBWTW) on pause beginning Memorial Day and instead start now. Monday transmissions may resume the Monday after Labor Day.

But please drop by once in a while so see if there are random posts. Here is an example.

Two stories from last week:

A) Goose Island Brewing put a million dollars worth of NFTs (non-fungible tokens) up for sale. Read it in the Chicago Tribune if you know the way around its paywall, or at Eater.

B) NFTs and building a community around a beer brand.

Now highlights from a story from the New York Post two-plus years ago about Brooklyn hops hipsters, an average-looking guy from the Midwest and White Claw:

Chaos erupted outside [Other Half Brewing in Brooklyn] when an apparently annoyed craft-beer hater pulled a gun on a long line of people who were waiting to buy the latest designer IPA, according to cops and online reports.

The gun-slinging skeptic struck around the corner from the brewery, where beer lovers with camp chairs and hand trucks regularly line up overnight to buy limited-run, $18 four-packs in collectible cans, sold when the doors open Saturday mornings.

It was at around 9 p.m. when the gunman and a woman he was with allegedly confronted the long line of hops hipsters.

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TWTBWTW*: Novelty, beta projects & consistent hitmakers

* That Was The Beer Week That Was (TWTBWTW) will be on hiatus until May 16.

Goschie Farms (known for hops)

Feel free to compare and contrast.

NOVELTY & CREATIVITY
The Novelty Trap

We have a creativity problem

What separates Blind Melon from Shania Twain?

My comment two weeks ago about Lew Bryson’s “Stop Drinking New Beers All The Time” post stands.

Outer Range Brewing makes beer about 60 miles west of ut. A lot of IPAs. They are very good at what they do, so there is no, “Hey, you should get better at this (or that)” first. A new IPA shows up, I might buy it. It will be interesting, something new, a little bit different. But it will still taste like an Outer Range beer. As humans we like what is familiar, but also what is different. Just not too different.

PLACE MATTERS
What do consumers deserve to be told?

A certain space

An estate beer

A farm brewery grows in Brooklyn
Other Half Brewing and Threes Brewing deserve all the beer geek love they get, but if there is time for only one stop in Brooklyn you’ll find me at Strong Rope. Blame founder Jason Sahler.

“When I am giving tours I am the face of the beer,” he told me a few years ago. “But I tell them all of this is not possible without farmers. The farmers do all the work before (ingredients) touch our deck. It’s easier for me to explain that on a small scale. There’s something more tangible to me when it’s local.”

BECAUSE . . . EARTH DAY
Customers expect these initiatives

Where sustainability and technology meet

And this . . .

TWTBWTW: What if micro meant micro?

Oregon hop pickers
Via the Oregon Hops & Brewing Archives (see below)

As always, here you will find a hodge podge of links to stories that recently struck my fancy, most often during the past week. To call it That Was The (Beer) Week That Was, as I did last week, suggests it might be a more complete roundup of beer news that it is. But because TWTBWTW kind of rolls of the tongue, or perhaps serves as a test to check just how much you’ve had too much to drink, I’m sticking with it.

THINGS ARE GREAT, UNLESS THEY AREN’T
Mostly sunny with a chance of occasional showers
“It’s time to break out your sunglasses beer folks.”

It’s going to be a ‘make-or-break’ year for struggling craft brewers
“It’s a good time to be super careful and super strategic because we’re facing rising prices in pretty much everything. We’re trying to think of where we want to be five years from now.”

Craft Beer Posts ‘Steepest’ Declines of Any Segment in the Off-Premise
Declines have accelerated to nearly -10% compared to the -6% decline in calendar year 2021, according to Bump Williams Consulting.

WHAT IF?
Micro-wineries
Napa Valley legislators recently gave final approval to the Micro-Winery Ordinance, which simplifies the permitting process for small producers who make up to 1,000 cases of wine per year. Operators of small breweries will read this story and immediately see parts of their own businesses.

It also got me thinking about micro and driving past liquor stores that advertise “microbrews” inside. Before there were craft breweries there were microbreweries. This wasn’t a legal designation. At the outset, and for record keeping purposes, the Institute of Brewing Studies (the predecessor of the Brewers Association) defined microbreweries as those that produce less than 10,000 barrels per year. That was raised to 15,000 barrels early on, where it remains today.

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