The power of the label

Westvelteren corkThis really isn’t another beer & wine post, but we have to start with a little wine research.

The Economist carried a report a while back pointing out that the relationship between the price of a bottle of wine and its taste is weak, according to two studies in the Journal of Wine Economics.

In one study the reserchers charted how 120 people bid in auctions on champagne after tasting it blind, after inspecting only the bottle, and after tasting it while seeing the bottle. The bidding was 33% higher when tasters could only see the bottle than it was with blind tasting, implying that the champagne’s taste detracted from its perceived value. That’s why they mean by the power of the label.

Does the same thing happen with beer? Meaning what you’ll pay at a store or from a menu (as opposed to in action) because of a beer or brewery’s reputation.

This isn’t altogether bad. We should have brands we trust and to feel loyal to certain breweries (perhaps you had a great tour there, or you and a friend shared a bottled on a special occasion). But it doesn’t hurt to taste blind on occasion to keep some perspective.

For instance, I have a friend who recently paid “more than $20 a bottle” (he said with a sheepish smile) to have Westvleteren 12 shipped from Belgium. If you read Brew Like A Monk (go ahead and buy it, please) you’ll see I have great admiration for the beer and the Trappist monks to produce it. But I think my friend might do well picking up some Rochefort 10 (another Trappist beer) and tasting the two side by side. Rochefort 10 sells for $4.50-$5 in our part of the country and is relatively easy to restock.

He might decide the Westvleteren – before you comment, yes I know it comes WITHOUT a label – is well worth the higher price, but it won’t hurt to check.

Tired of extreme beers?

Here’s one “real” (compared to the previous list) prediction for 2007 and one resolution.

The prediction: We may eventually grow tried of talking about “extreme beer (or beers),” but we won’t quit drinking them.

I’m sure that you are going to be reading (and therefore talking) more about them because Lew Bryson has written an article I’m anxious to read for Beer Advocate magazine, whose subscribers often take a walk on the extreme side.

That should provoke plenty of discussion, but it seems both polite and sensible to wait until the story is published to join in.

However here’s a little background to explain my upcoming resolution.

In researching his story Bryson sent a request to a forum run by the Brewers Association. He received dozens of responses within a day, including a lengthy one that Teri Fahrendorf of Steelhead Brewing posted. (You can read his request and her response here.)

Much conversation followed, among commercial brewers and among enthusiasts at several beer discussion sites. Also from Tomme Arthur of Lost Abbey, who wrote in his blog that “at no time have I ever considered what I do as a brewer to be extreme.” But he also points out that some spectacular beers have resulted from what Fahrendrof calls “testosterone-driven hop one-upmanship.”

Here’s where personal guilt sets in. These beers make good copy, and journalists live for good copy. I even won a an award (money, a trip) for writing about Imperial IPAs. More recently I wrote a story for All About Beer magazine about Sam Calagione, Arthur and three other brewers who made a trip to Belgium as part of Calagione’s research for his book, “Extreme Brewing.” Re-reading that story I see the words “extreme beers” used far too casually (by me).

The phrase has made for brilliant marketing since Jim Koch of Boston Beer began using it in the early 1990s. It’s easy to forget what a stir Sam Adams Triple Bock, then the world’s strongest beer at 17% abv, created when it debuted at the 1993 Great American Beer Festival.

“At the time, everyone was trying to make one new classic style. That’s what was driving innovation,” he said. “I wanted to step outside of that, to try to expand the boundaries of beer rather than expanding on traditional styles.”

And he wasn’t alone – in innovating or celebrating “extreme beer.”

But the term is double-edged because we’re not close to agreeing on a definition. When I type “extreme beers” I don’t mean they must be unbalanced, jammed with hops and overflowing with alcohol. More than 90% of the beer sold in this country is some form of international lager (Miller, Heineken, Corona, etc.). Folks, we’re not part of the mainstream. That IPA Fahrendorf brewed in 1990 is still extreme to most the population.

Roger Baylor (publican of Rich O’s Public House in New Albany, Ind.) has authored the motto for us all to live by: “Extremism in the defense of good beer is no vice.”

But, you know, I’m wrong to think everybody agrees. In her letter, Fahrendorf writes about brewers “more interested in balanced beers than in extreme beers.” That would imply the two are mutually exclusive. Clearly, we’ve got a failure to communicate.

Thus (finally) my resolution: I will not use the term “extreme beer” unless the conversation absolutely demands it, and when I do I will make it clear just what I mean.

2007 beer predictions

It’s that time of year, to recap 2006 and make predictions for 2007.

Stephen Beaumont picks his Taste of the Year; Lew Bryson has started his Best of 2006; Jay Brooks checks in with both the top stories of last year and predictions for this; Bryan and Adam at Brew Lounge discuss 2007 predictions; A Good Beer Blog invites readers to participate (and offers a fine prize); and the list goes on.

So why not? Here are nine predictions for 2007. I’m leaving the 10th open for you. Submit an entry as a comment. The best (based upon some vague guidelines) will receive a signed copy of Michael Jackson’s 1977 World Guide to Beer.

Thomas Jefferson beer1. A bottle of beer homebrewed by Thomas Jefferson sells at auction for $56,403.

2. Modern Scientist reports that Brettanomyces, a yeast associated with “wild beers,” increases the IQ of laboratory mice by between 25 and 42 percent. Sales, and prices, of Belgian and American beers brewed with the Brett skyrocket. One skeptic serves Orval to his pet mouse every day for a month and declares him no smarter (but smart enough to have suckered somebody out of an Orval a day for a month).

3. SABMiller – seeing the opportunity to cash in on the wild beer craze and growing success of pumpkin beers with a single acquisition – buys tiny Jolly Pumpkin Artisan Ales in Dexter, Mich., as well as the entire town of Dexter and one million used wine barrels for the production of “Great Pumpkin Wild Beers.”

4. Dogfish Head Brewery in Delaware spends its advertising budget for the next 10 years on a Super Bowl commercial. Keeping the theme of the piece secret until the moment it is shown, founder Sam Calagione promises no Clydesdales will be injured during the course of producing the commercial.

5. Blue Moon Brewing buys Molson Coors Brewing Co.

6. Barack (is there anything he can’t do?) Obama wins Homebrewer of the Year in the National Homebrew Competition and declares that if elected he will name Fred Eckhardt the nation’s first Craft Beer Czar.

7. Beer blogs come of age. Gawker Media pays $875,000 for A Good Beer Blog. Little, Brown offers Beer Haiku Daily a $325,000 advance on a book deal.

8. ESPN adds an Extreme Brewing competition to the X Games. Anheuser-Busch pays $10.5 million to be the exclusive sponsor.

9. International brewing giant InBev signs a deal with Abbey Sint Sixtus of Westvleteren to brew its cult beers under a special contract and sell them around the world. InBev announces that as well as distributing Westvleteren 6, Westvleteren 8 and Westvelteren 12 it will produce a special Westy 12 Lite for the American market.

Feb. 5 – The contest is closed. The winner is Peter Hooper, who lives almost directly north of me (in Colorado). To be honest, I couldn’t pick based on merit, so picked a winner at random. Thanks for participating.